drag lights accept 5/8ths studs unless you got jegs knock offs

 

The wheels are centered on the shoulder of the lug nut, so how does it get centered if I don’t have the shoulder?
They are genuine Welds, not knockoffs. But they are old, more than 10 years (if that matters.)

 

The hole in the wheel is the same size as the shoulder part of the drive stud (roughly 11/16). I use a deburring tool on the holes if they’re too tight to go on and off somewhat easily.
Draglite + 5/8 stud = no problem

 

The hole in the wheel is the same size as the shoulder part of the drive stud (roughly 11/16). I use a deburring tool on the holes if they’re too tight to go on and off somewhat easily.
Draglite + 5/8 stud = no problem

This^^^^

I have run 3 different sets of Weldlites on my 5/8" stud axle, the oldest set was from the early 90s. They will slide right on when new. But I have had to take a Dremel tool and a sand roll to the inside of the openings on all of them. Otherwise after they are bolted on and run a few times the compression of the aluminum washer causes the openings to close up enough to make it very difficult to pull the wheel off.

 

Time to ditch the draglites, they are the Cragar SS of the 1990's. Lol.

 

Haha, but they are stupid light and inexpensive when found used because of guys like you that see them as yesterday’s news. I asked in the opening post, what is an option that isn’t $1000 for wheels?

 

Same here.
My 1990 drag lites work just fine on 5/8” stud.

 

Be sure to get a stud with a long enough shoulder with the Draglights. The shoulder needs to protrude out the front of the rim enough to locate the washer.

 

Thanks everyone for the answers. I didn't realize so many people are running this style wheel with a 5/8" stud. It's making me feel better using the wheels that I have.


You're saying the shank has to be longer than the thickness of the wheel, correct? And the spacers are centered on the shank, not the threads?

The 5/8 studs need a 5/8 thread in the axle flange. If you have 1/2 inch studs now the axles will have to be drilled and tapped for 5/8. Then the best is the shouldered studs that screw into the axle from the front and have a jam nut on the back to secure them

I found those on Strange's website. That makes sense that a nut on the backside of the axle to 'lock' the stud in is a better setup than without a lock nut. Something like these : 5/8" Stud Kit - 1.875" Long Shank | Includes Lug Nuts & .250" Wide Washers - Strange Engineering Obviously, I'll have to measure rotor and wheel thickness to determine proper shank length. How much of the shank should stick out of the wheel,1/8" or 1/4"?


I think I'll have to send my axles out to be drilled and tapped as I can't locate anyone locally to do that.

 

When I had older draglites I used and adjustable reamer to clean up the holes for a 5/8 stud. The new ones don't need to be cleaned up. Yes use a proper drive stud with a shoulder

 

I asked this exact question to Weld on Draglites earlier this year and here is their response

>>>>

Yes you can run 5/8" studs with Draglites. With 5/8” studs you will not use a shank lug nut. You will use the small aluminum spacer and a steel flange nut typically supplied with the studs. The wheel itself will just need to have the rear portion of the lug holes opened up to 45/64”.
<<<<<<<

 

drag lites here, with those little sleeves that screw on, wheels are hard to take off and on though

 

That's good, tight is better than loose.
No chance of them walking if they are still tight!!!
Mine are kind of worn out.


.

 

Strange , moser and Moroso all have 5/8 stud kits.
Billet specialties street lites and win lites will be the most cost effective wheel if wanting to upgrade.
RC Comp are also amazing. But will be more money.
I’m direct for both if you want a set drop shipped.

 

I still use Weld Pro-Stars from the mid 90's. I can't see the new wheels being much (if any) lighter. I have other places to spend $3k. Lol.

 

The 5/8 studs need a 5/8 thread in the axle flange. If you have 1/2 inch studs now the axles will have to be drilled and tapped for 5/8. Then the best is the shouldered studs that screw into the axle from the front and have a jam nut on the back to secure them

 

interesting, I tell people; "doesn't matter what the wheels/paint/etc. looks like if the picture is taken from the winners circle."

 

I never expect to be in the winner’s circle haha. I’m just trying to stay out of the hospital or wrecking the guy next to me.

I’m getting into this later in life than most, and my wife reminds me about that on a regular basis. My car is a budget oriented deal built for drag and drive events in my garage by me - this is what I find enjoyable about the car (and of course the people at the drag strip). But after a couple of years of doing drag and drives, I’m trying to be in the top half rather than the bottom half or last

 

I still run the Draglites (by choice) and my younger friends make fun of me but they work. They are difficult at best to get the rears off. Every time they come off it's with the use of a rubber mallet...lol. Every time they come off I threaten to take a grinder and sand roll to them but I always get lazy. Been 1.18 to the 60 at almost 3600 pounds without any problems and that's with 5/8" stud.

 

I like my old pro stars. 5/8 with no issues getting them off. Good enough to get me a Wally.

 

Periodically check your studs for tightness. They will all work themselves loose over time. The strange studs are a long threaded bolt with a threaded sleeve that screws on from the mounting surface side. That sleeve centers the wheel on the stud. I loctite my studs, but not the sleeves, as they can work loose if you change/remove the wheels a lot. I don't like the studs that screw in from the front side, and have a nut on the backside. I could never keep them tight. 3420# car leaving off the brake on 14# of boost.

 

I actually put a really small tack on the bolt head to the back side of the axle flange on mine. I have the bolt style not the studs.

Curtis

 

Drag lights run on 5/8 studs and are a good choice.

 

Strange will do that on their axles. 2 years ago to drill and tap a pair of axles was $80.00

 

I bought my axles from Quick Performance and they said it’s $75 + shipping. I’m sure that’s the route I’m going to go. And they said they would dual drill the axles so that I can swap back to 1/2” studs if I ever need to. I’m not sure why I would ever have to do that, but I figured I might as well have both bolt sizes.

 

My Mustang has the Strange bolts with the sleeve. I like to never got the Draglights on when I first built the car. Ended up using a drill bit to open them up. Sure looked to me like the axles weren't drilled straight. I couldn't get them off first time I went to swap from side to side. Had to make a puller to remove them. Since then I haven't had any issues, never have had problems with them staying tight.

 

Centerlines

 

I sent an email to Strange last night and received an answer today. $90.00 a pair to drill and retap to 5/8.

 

That sounds like a great deal. Too bad the shipping costs will probably cost you more.

 

I've had Moser do a few sets, BP change and 5/8". Quick turn around,no issues.

 

I wondered if this set of 15x14 drag lites would fit over my 5/8 studs, my primary wheels are a set of Sanders. Banging them off with a mallet does not sound like something I'd want to do, would not want to booger up the threads on the studs.

 

You shouldn't have to bang them off, I just wiggle mine off.. Just take a sand roll with a die grinder and run that around the inside of the holes slightly. Then after the first time you take them off again you might have to do the same thing.

 

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I highly doubt the aluminum skin could hurt the threads.
The center steel ring doesn't drag across the threads.


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I'll try one at some point.