Solid will be fine.

 

Use a rubber transmission mount for this application. With the midplates, the sole function of the transmission mount is to locate and steady the output shaft/yoke.

 

.


Again, if it's a real car, I always use the poly mounts.
With a full chassis Pro-Style car, I use a solid mount as my limiter.
I have 3 drag cars, and on the caged bracket car & round tube back 1/2 car, I use a poly mount & limiter.
With my T/S, previously NHRA legal P/S I use a solid mount & no limiter.


.

 

rubber mount with a hose clamp(yes hose clamp) just in case.ie better safe than sorry,unless you wanna risk cracking your trans case/bell??

 

With a front and mid plate do you even need a mount? I've seen plenty of roadsters with no mount and even ran a door car without one myself.

 

I have always used a solid trans mount with solid engine mounts or plates. With the cars I have had, I don't see what could bind or twist enough to phuck up the trans case. Plus, I like to live dangerously, so that's another reason to run one.

 

A friend of mine tried to run with out a rear trans mount. Full chassis SBC S 10. He waded up 2 mid plates. But he was not using any front to back limiters, so there that.

 

I always use a poly mount on the trans, never used a solid mount on a trans.

 

Motor and midplate in my car and I've used rubber and poly with no issues. I agree, if its a stock chassis car (subframe etc) go poly just for misalignment and flex. If its a tube chassis jigged car, then solid would be ok.

 

Poly mount

 

How rigid is your chassis. With a solid trans mount you will have solid mounts at 3 points which will allow no room for any kind of flex/movement. This can be an easy prescription for a cracked trans case. Especially if it's a thin stock case. A strong Reid, or other after market case will give you a little more margin, but why risk it when a poly mount will work great, and not cause become a cause for failure?

 

I agree. That is what I was told 25 years ago. Never cracked a trans case or pulled a rubber trans mount apart. Also always ran a travel limiter on one side along with front and mid plate.

 

I ran into this when my chassis guy was putting everything together. I have front and mid-plate and used to have a solid trans mount with no lateral engine limiter. I made 30 or so passes with it just like that without any problems. Next time it was at the chassis shop I had him put an engine limiter and new cross member with poly mount. He said I was worried about nothing. Said I could run with a solid mount or no cross member at all and never know a difference. I think it all comes down to how stiff your car is and how much you think it will flex.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. This car is new to me. I bought it as a roller. It's a back half car with a 14 pt cage (8.50 cert). It's mild steel....I'd assume it would be pretty rigid. I was planning to use solid motor mounts, and bought a cheap stock rubber mount to allow some flex, just in case. But, I've since decided to go with motor/mid plates. I didn't know if that extra engine support changed anything about the need to allow for flex. I think I'll stick with either this rubber mount, or pick up a poly mount, just to be safe. Again, thanks for the input.

 

I have been using the same moroso solid engine mounts and same TRW rubber trans mount (with hose clamp wrapped around ) in my low ten high 9 second car since 1988 everything still in excellent shape. thousands of passes on the parts . my car is not violent and not as powerful as a lot of others here . trans has been in car since 1994 took it out about 2 years ago to fix a leak . still leaks tho LOL

 

You sure got your money's worth out of that transmission!!!

 

In 1994 I bought the book TH400 Automatic transmission By Ron Sessions, a seal kit and a set of black friction plates and steels from A-1 a B&M sprag and pickup improver kit . first and only transmission I ever rebuilt. Was actually using a 10"GER convertor for a while then had a custom made 8"JW convertor built for the car . That convertor DID NOT help the performance of the car in any way but didnt hurt it either. It is still in the car since 2001. Filled it with AMSOIL ATF in 2006 maybe that's why it is always leaking LOL. Cracked the bell housing in 2014 while swapping an engine so I installed a JW ultra bell. I actually first had this transmission in my 66 Chevelle (1979)paid 150 bucks for it. Then put it in my 69 Camaro (1983) then in this Nova in 1988.