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Thanks for your input Topfun.

Since my post i have removed the restrictor in my thermostat housing and went for a ride . It was in the lower 60s that night and i could not get water temps over 170, even parked in the garage. Its not a fair test yet since it has cooled off outside.

I found a set of Spal dual fans that are rated at 3500 CFM that might clear with very minor trimmimg hopefully.

Im also considering replacing the alternator with an adjustable regulator to keep the idle volts a little above 14. This would be a move Im not convinced would have the return Im looking for.
Voltage at idle depends on alternator RPM, the regulator will not change that. If the regulator is set for 14.5 V and the RPM of the alternator rotor is not fast enough to generate that voltage at the amperage load applied the regulator cannot force it to higher voltage. The regulator limits voltage, it cannot increase voltage if the RPM is insufficient.

To increase the voltage at idle, speed up the alternator by changing pulley size, but take care to not overspeed it at max. engine RPM.
 
On a NA set up, I like 30 degrees at idle. More timing keeps the heat out of the exhaust and will make you run cooler. Are you running vac advance can?
Also, moving wster through the radiator too fast doesnt let it exchange enough heat. A high flow 160 T-stat might help too.
If the water moves through the radiator too fast to cool, wouldn't it also move through the engine too fast to get hot? By the same logic you would slow down the air flow through the radiator? Faster fluid flow, air and water, will always result in more heat exchange.

Read through these tech tips.

https://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=6

https://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=14
 
Voltage at idle depends on alternator RPM, the regulator will not change that. If the regulator is set for 14.5 V and the RPM of the alternator rotor is not fast enough to generate that voltage at the amperage load applied the regulator cannot force it to higher voltage. The regulator limits voltage, it cannot increase voltage if the RPM is insufficient.

To increase the voltage at idle, speed up the alternator by changing pulley size, but take care to not overspeed it at max. engine RPM.
True but I say it this way - put the smallest alternator pulley on it that will NOT overspeed the alternator. As an example on a SBF with the stock size lower pulley, this alternator pulley (67mm or 2.64") is good for an engine that revs to around 7000 rpm.

https://store.alternatorparts.com/partno241271replacesdelco104762256-groovealternatorpulley.aspx

Also, make sure you ground the alternator with a 4ga wire from the housing body to a bolt nearby on the cylinder head. Do not rely on the brackets for "grounding". Don't ask me why but on my 3G alternator it made a 1/2 volt difference in the output voltage.
 
Also, make sure you ground the alternator with a 4ga wire from the housing body to a bolt nearby on the cylinder head. Do not rely on the brackets for "grounding". Don't ask me why but on my 3G alternator it made a 1/2 volt difference in the output voltage.
3G alternator is the shiz-nit! I have one on the mustang, and even with a tiny crank pulley, it keeps up with an electric fan, water pump, headlights, etc AT IDLE. Had never used an alternator that charged so well at low engine speeds. Best $30 junkyard upgrade I ever made. lol If anyone does get one, try to pluck the wiring harness and 10 MM metric adjusting bolt on the bottom for tension.

It's basically a 2-wire alternator. Once you do the basic harness modifications, one wire goes to the battery, and the other goes to the ignition to tell it to turn on. That's it.

Cannot overemphasize how important it is to have LARGE wire and GOOD connections to the fans. I was having trouble with crimp connectors melting... and that's with 10 gauge wire on a fan drawing a continuous 22 amps. I recommend soldered connections.

Good Luck
 
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