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Friend of mine with 71 Camaro, healthy 454, dual puller fans, did Power Tour last year. He had usual problems with running hot in traffic so he installed a pusher. Only dropped him down about 2 degrees, but I don't know what cfm he installed. He did say it was one of the good ones. Think about it, that's a lot of plastic in front of the radiator to impede the flow of air. Probably better off stepping up your game with and behind the radiator. JIMHO
 

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You can but there is only so much surface area. A 3000+ cfm puller with good shroud should cool just about anything with proper pump and radiator...I have a set of spals on a dewitts hipo rad with an eddy water pump in a c3 Vette(very limited grill area) keeps a 14.5 to 1 582 at 190 in traffic.....
 

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Thinking of adding a aggressive pusher fan for traffic purposes to aid in cooling. Looking for real world experiences.... Thanks
Tell us what your current cooling "system" is comprised of.

Also, what amperage alternator you're running.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Current setup....

55gallon WP, Stock type Be-Cool radiator, OEM Countor Fans that covers all surfaces, bottom defector scooping all air, 140amp alternator, 13.5 volts at both fans, no intercooler.

Cruising there is no issues in FL heat, runs around 190. Traffic hits and temps slowly start climbing over 215.
Open the hood, temps drop.

Ford never released actual CFM but compare these fan dimensions to the aftermarket I'm guessing around 3000 CFM.

I realize some people have been successful using these fans and mine are spinning in the correct rotation.

To work right I think I need at least 3500 CFM to correct this issue.
Don't have the clearance due to my blower setup.
 

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Is the 13.5 volts at idle or cruising?

So you've looked at aftermarket fans and dimensionaly, they won't work in the space you have?

WP - elec unit? --- sounds like it.

Are you running a T-stat?
 

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That restrictor is constant, will impede the flow of coolant at any temperature. Install a good, high flow 180* thermostat and see what you get.
 

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1....13.5 at idle, closer to 14 driving

2... Meziere electric water pump

3... no thermostat have restrictor now.
Considering removing but don't think it would make the difference I'm looking for.
Have you experimented with the orifice dia of the restrictor and seen if that had resulted any temp changes? Have you thought about installing a high-flow T-stat?

Forgot to ask earlier --- does the car have AC?

Aftermarket fans? --- won't work?
 

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I was under the impression you can't move water fast enough , running nothing in the thermostat housing shouldn't create a problem ?
I've ran a few street cars without a t-stat or restrictor plate. Never had an issue. BBC's, SBC's, belt driven water pumps, electric water pumps, electric fans/etc setups. Pump gas and E85 combos. Always heard good things about the Taurus fans, or you can move to a large single fan.
 

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Remove the restrictor.

Is your radiator sealed to the core support?
Is your core support sealed to the hood?
does your core support have any holes in it?

You need to make the front of the radiator is sealed from the hot engine compartment.

Pictures would help.
 

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I was under the impression you can't move water fast enough , running nothing in the thermostat housing shouldn't create a problem ?
Correct. It's a closed loop system, you can't move water through it too quickly. Restrictors haven't been useful since people would overspin junk mechanical pumps hard enough that it would puke out the cap before crossflow radiators were used, or they would cavitate (which you'd never get with electric pumps anyways).
 

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Seems like if you wanted to run both, your pusher would have to be close to or better than the puller or I would think it would be a restriction in front of the rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Remember, the issues is only in traffic, when I'm driving there are no issues.

I can seal things, remove the large restrictor . If these things were a genuine problem they would follow me when I'm cruising and they don't.

But I do appreciate the input..
 

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I'm running 2 x 12" pullers to cool around 800hp, the second fan has never come on.

Pushers are a band aid solution for a bad "puller" setup.
 

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Thinking of adding a aggressive pusher fan for traffic purposes to aid in cooling. Looking for real world experiences.... Thanks
Remember your alternator is gonna work even harder n build more heat n resistance.

Look at your airflow directed thru the rad.
Direct more air thru it not around it.

And what fans do you use now
 

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To answer your original question, yes, a pusher will help.

I have one on mine that I use to during True Street when the car is making multiple passes in a short time.

I run the contour fans also and they will keep the water below 200 deg F under all conditions that I've encountered. But when I want low temps I turn on the pusher fan.

Here are 2 options that should work though you will need to check fit up. The thin one is what I have and will work even with a AC condenser installed. I originally had it installed that way on the front of the condenser though I had to trim the front nose support piece to clearance the motor section. Without the condenser it should fit with no trimming. I've never tried the thicker one but without the condenser it should work though the front nose piece may have to be trimmed also.

30101510 Spal Electric Fan - Pusher - 14" - 1310 cfm - 2.444"
30102056 Spal Electric Fan - Pusher - 14" - 1841 cfm - 3.448"
 

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I'm running 2 x 12" pullers to cool around 800hp, the second fan has never come on.

Pushers are a band aid solution for a bad "puller" setup.
Wonder if his pullers are just not up to the task ??
 
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