Aerospace claims the master cylinder is already proportioned?? Is it adjustable ? Unless your want to be able to adjust it I would say you should be fine with your setup .

 

If you were autcrossing, I'd say sure, put a proportioning valve in it to fine tune. Since your running a drag car with skinny's up front, most of your braking will come from the rear of the car, there just is'nt enough surface area on the front skinney's to do a thing.

 

Jason that is the kit I got. I found a reason why mine was so close the the strut tower. It isn't that close anymore. I'm still going to but the proportioning valve on the passenger side.

 

What I found on my car w/ big rears and skinnys up front, was that the rears we not doing much braking. I could get the car stopped ok, 123-125 mph in the 1/8. So I installed a prop valve on the circuit to the front brakes and started making adjustments. This made a noticeable improvement. Now both the front and rear wheels were showing the same amount of brake dust on them where as before the addition of the prop valve, the fronts always had much more on them. Master cylinder was a Mopar with a 1" bore. 4-piston calipers at all four corners.

 

My original plan was to put a prop valve in each line and have two setups, one for the street and one for the track.

Skip, Aerospace told me the wrong thread size for the front port in the master cylinder so I have ~$20 in fittings that I can't use. I might be using the fittings that are included with the master cylinder.

 

My original plan was to put a prop valve in each line and have two setups, one for the street and one for the track.

Come on, think about what you just said and delete that post. Do you think braking is different on the street than it is on the track? Explain to me the difference, I'm honestly curious....

Also, this sounds like the guys that run 50 toggle switches to "run their car" and make things harder than they need to be.
1. Are you REALLY going to adjust the prop valves back and forth all the time even if a different set up was needed LOL...nope, PITA.

2. Your going to spend twice as much on a system and fittings/lines that are not needed...come on now.

This is'nt rocket science, your going to find out the prop valve nets you nothing vs non at all just due to tire size front back, I'd be willing to bet you will wind up like everybody else that has been there done that and wind up with the prop valve being wide open, just like you dont have one at all...and then kick yourself for even installing one to begin with.

Wanna think about this realistically...why dont dragsters have front brakes? there's nothing there tire wise that is going to make any difference and will actually make it worse since your will flat spot/scrub them when they lock up, and they are going a heck of alot faster than most cars on this site. and stop just fine with back brakes only.

 

Really unless you have street tires on all 4 corners, I would say ditch the proporting valve.

My s-10 v8 conversion has oem style/size calipers up front, early 70's style front calipers on the back--1 1/4 bore 1968 corvette manual brake master cylinder---stops like a dream! If I was to do it again I think I would stick with a 1 1/8" bore master cylinder to improve my pedal ratio. Skinny 15" front runners with 33/18.5's on the rear.

 

I already have all the parts and fittings to run a prop valve on both front and rear. Yes I am already pissed that I spent the money on them. Where were you 9 months ago when I bought these parts? I guess I will just put them on and run them wide open to just piss you off. I will take a picture for ya. And just ask the guys I work with. I over think everything!!

Thanks for the help.