100 percent stock motor, stock gear, stock stall, rims and drag tires, fuel system and tuned this 2016 camaro went 9.90s.

Unless youre doing gears or stall or other stuff for a street car you occasionally race id rather have the magnuson.

Only down side is a shit ton of torque at 2500 rpm. Without a decent tire this thing will kill the tires on the street at a stop light race.

 

Does the Madison's power flatline before the prochargers?

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Centrifugal-are more peak power deliveries. Do you drive around 6250rpm everyday, all day? Then that's the blower for you. Spend more time from 4000-6250 ? Procharger is for you.
Spending more time in red light traffic or commuting? Less than 5000rpm them the whipple,Madison is for you.
Either blower can be tilted in the performance direction you like by pulley changes, timing curves, fuel curves...... But by the basic understanding of the characteristics of the blowers compared..... DON'T MAKE THIS HARDER THAN NECCESSARY.

 

Peak power is useless on the street. A magnuson blower will have full boost by 2500 rpm. Itll also be faster with street gears and stall.

Procharger with gears and stall will be fast but in a street car at a stop light a magnuson blown car with traction will shit all over a procharged car period.

 

I have to disagree with this. The whole issue IS traction if we are talking about bolting these on to late model motors that will make 600+HP on the street. all that power down low is going to be pretty useless if you are always blowing the tires off. The procharger will ease into the powerband a bit better and then pull hard up top where you can actually use it.. Most of the street car action I see these days are roll races anyway with the power most new cars make, and the whole top end thing is exactly why turbo cars are dominating. Unless you are putting this in something that will be able to handle the low end power of a roots/hybrid on the street (big tire or very well setup suspension), otherwise you are giving up all the advantage of the roots blower to traction issues. I've seen tons of turbo cars spank roots blown or big block cars because the big low end torque motor couldn't hook well enough to take the turbo car out of the hole and the turbo car walked it down the road.

One thing is for sure though, the roots/hybrid will FEEL a lot stronger when street driving. Instant power wherever you punch it. This never mattered to me much though. When I'm cruising, I'm cruising. Never cared if the car felt sluggish at part throttle. As long as I knew it would wake up when I punch it, That's just me though.

I mean, either way, nobody can say that either method doesn't work. Obviously there are enough super fast hybrid roots/twin screw cars out there running awesome times to prove it, and procharged cars as well. For a street car, I'd probably pick just based on packaging. Sometimes I think it would be nice to set one of my cars up with a hybrid roots setup that fits nicely on top of the motor without having to mess around with brackets and all that. Roots have less problems with things like bracket flex, from what I have seen centrifugal have less issues with keeping the IAT's cool.

 

My buddy just got a great deal from Magnuson for his 2017 ss camaro. Its gonna be a bad bitch on the street e85, blown and some 15 inch drag radials. Gonna hurt some zl1 and blown vettes feelings. Addiction motorsports is gonna tune it.

 

Also a Magnuson forces air and a whipple compresses air in the intake. Magnuson creates less air heat. If they can go 9.90 on a stock motor trans gear and stall.... i know who id run

 

Also a Magnuson forces air and a whipple compresses air in the intake. Magnuson creates less air heat. If they can go 9.90 on a stock motor trans gear and stall.... i know who id run

A whipple is a screw blower, screws don't compress air in the intake. They compress air inside the blower. A screw blower is more efficient than a roots blower.

 

I heard multiple people say that the tvs2300 biggest pro is its biggest down fall..besides my budget will only allow me to get a procharger d1 or a tvs1900

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A little late to the party, but here's a 2.3l Whipple/3.08 rear gear pump gas street car:

A 1900 TVS can support a little more power (~50-75hp); a 2300 TVS significantly more (~150-200 hp). My pump gas tune leaves probably 50-80 hp on the table, another 50 hp could be had by re camming for a 6,500 rpm shift point (currently at 6,100 rpm).

 

AlexLTDLX, What's the race weight?
I just made a post along the same lines as this.

 

3,443 lbs.

 

What is the cost difference?

Also, I'm always surprised when people talk about a Procharger as if it is low powered down low. I wonder if they are talking theory or real world. My little D1 SC makes enough power down low to 60' in the low 1.30s with a 3.50 gear and tight converter. Boost is pretty flat with maybe 1-2 psi change from starting line to finish line. It's not like it is 4 psi at the crack of the throttle then 12 at the top of the gear change.

You probably can't go wrong with either. I'd look at price and ease of installation to make the decision.

 

What is the cost difference?

That depends - are you a checkbook racer or a real hotrodder?

In my case (Whipple):

Blower - $1,000 (used, from Greece - seriously)

A/W Core - $150 worth of materials (some steel, copper, aluminum and 140' of 1/4" copper tube)

A/W tank, pump and fittings/hose - $200 ($120 for the tank, $30 for the pump (Seaflow 2000), fittings and hose $50 - Farmtek and Amazon)

Extra blower pulley - $150

Brackets/Tensioner Assembly - $50 (tensioner is a swing spring and a Hayabusa steering damper with 50w oil in it; brackets are scrap 1/4" steel and Whipple snout clamp is a BBC rod cap).

Vortech Renegade Crank Pulley - $250

Belts, mini cooper bypass, misc - $150

Total: ~$2,000

Of course, this doesn't count my time, but it's the only one of it's kind on earth.