No. This method is used to adjust one at a time. The lifter needs to be on the base circle when it's adjusted, this ensure that it is, but only on the cylinder you're working on. The old 90* method was fine for a stock cam, but aftermarket cams it's not. It's possible due to lobe timing and lift, that it may not be on the base circle when you adjust it, which is why the eoic method is the best.

 

No. This method is used to adjust one at a time. The lifter needs to be on the base circle when it's adjusted, this ensure that it is, but only on the cylinder you're working on. The old 90* method was fine for a stock cam, but aftermarket cams it's not. It's possible due to lobe timing and lift, that it may not be on the base circle when you adjust it, which is why the eoic method is the best.

What about for a cam that's 280/286 @ .050 and 201@200 with a .435 lobe lift ?

It's about .001 difference between methods. Maybe.002 at most.

 

I like the 90 deg method for mild cams, maybe I'm wrong but seems to work for me.

 

As the exhaust valve starts to open, you adjust the intake. As the intake valve is at full lift and just starts to close, adjust the exhaust.

 

OP,...... Both valves are done on the same cylinder with the EOIC method. then move to the next cylinder.

 

This is what I do!

 

Ok. Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it!

 

Most of us 'Old-Guys' learned the 'In-Ex-Op' method from our dads. You would see that scratched in chalk under almost 50's and 60's hoods or the fender-wells or fire wall.

 

I have a Direct Connection decal that tells what to adjust by firing order. Works for me on my Chevys.

 

I always wondered about this.

Back in the 70's I watched two guys setting valves on a funny car. One on each side. They rolled the motor over by hand an took turns setting a valve on their side, sometimes setting a couple. I could never figure it out and figured it was a speed secrete.

Now I no it's a MOPAR thing!

 

on the dyno and in the car i do all the intakes on one bank first, then all the exh. then i move to the other bank and do the same.
Its faster doing it that way, by far.
4-7 swap its
1-7-3-5
8-6-4-2

I do exh 1/2 lift set intakes. Intake just clearing the nose set exh

But no matter what you do, do the exact same procedure every time you do it. if you jump around all the time, you will miss slight changes that are telling you there is an issue

 

on the dyno and in the car i do all the intakes on one bank first, then all the exh. then i move to the other bank and do the same.
Its faster doing it that way, by far.
4-7 swap its
1-7-3-5
8-6-4-2

I do exh 1/2 lift set intakes. Intake just clearing the nose set exh

But no matter what you do, do the exact same procedure every time you do it. if you jump around all the time, you will miss slight changes that are telling you there is an issue

Yep, I always keep a log of any changes to look for patterns. Saved a lot of money catching things before outright failure.

 

With a hyd cam, you can do half of them, rotate it to a second position and do the other half. It's s close enough to run acceptably. No way would I do that with a solid lifter motor.

 

If you take all the spark plugs out b-4 setting the valves, your battery will thank you.

 

Shit we use a long handled ratchet

 

Wish I had thought of this while the engine was on the stand. Could have setup an indicator to see if I was on the base circle of a different valve. Oh well. Individual cylinders it is.

Edit: on second thought. lashing individually prevents errors transferring to other valves.

 

You guys are all crazy , your supposed to be adjusting them with the engine running squirting oil all over the place

 

I remember those days!
Those shitty metal clips and a hi vol oil pump made fr quite the mess in my grandma's driveway!

 

Just like starting a new build for the first time ya gotta get it warmed up without any coolant at all so the gaskets will seal or they'll leak,

 

If I were to start on #1 with the exhaust valve opening and then setting the lash on #1 intake, are there other intake valves I can lash at the same time? Same for the exhaust naturally. SBC roller mechanical lifters.

Apologies for an engine question.

You know you could have just posted a nice set of titties with your question and everyone would have let it slide.

 

As a tool and die maker, I always say, fuck a couple thousands!

 

As a tool and die maker, I always say, fuck a couple thousandths!

That’s ... That’s ... HERESEY!

 

You're supposed to adjust valves?? Well fuck...

 

I do it the slow way.
Take all plugs out
Put a piece of blue tape at TDC on the balancer to make it easy to see.
Starting rotating crank until I see a rocker opening - that'll be the first to adjust. Turn until max lift.
Notice what position the tape is at with that rocker at max lift... ie 2 o'clock.
Now turn engine 360 back to 2 o'clock and adjust that rocker. 360 regs from max open is base circle. Can't screw that up. Mark that rocker with an X.
Move on to another rocker that was starting to open.
It's slow, but.... no wear on starter, don't have to remember any order, they are all adjusted perfectly on the base circle... The more the duration, the smaller the base circle. I like to know for sure they all got set on the base circle.

 

I do it the slow way.
Take all plugs out
Put a piece of blue tape at TDC on the balancer to make it easy to see.
Starting rotating crank until I see a rocker opening - that'll be the first to adjust. Turn until max lift.
Notice what position the tape is at with that rocker at max lift... ie 2 o'clock.
Now turn engine 360 back to 2 o'clock and adjust that rocker. 360 regs from max open is base circle. Can't screw that up. Mark that rocker with an X.
Move on to another rocker that was starting to open.
It's slow, but.... no wear on starter, don't have to remember any order, they are all adjusted perfectly on the base circle... The more the duration, the smaller the base circle. I like to know for sure they all got set on the base circle.

That’s an interesting idea. How do you determine that you are at max lift? Eyeballing? Are you rotating
by hand or starter?

Question for everybody: How long is the lifter on the base circle in crankshaft degrees? Say, 280 degrees of duration. Knowing the crankshaft degrees on the base circle would give a plus/minus
allowance for max lift for the quoted method above.

 

I prefer the 90 degree method. I want to check my lash at exactly the same position on the camshaft every time. That is the most accurate way to know if you have anything happening in the valve train. I am not worried whether or not I have the actual lash exactly at a certain setting. I check mine religiously before each race. With good shaft rockers after they are broken in the lash should never change. If it does open up or close up there is a problem. My engine has been in the car for 1 1/2 seasons and I have not had to make any adjustments to the lash. My engine likes a loose lash setting.

 

 

Maybe that's what they where doing? I tried some things to save time, but they weren't even close when it came back around.

 

What happened to good old TDC method? Put #1 piston at TDC and adjust both valves, in 90 degree turns follow the firing order 18436572 and set one cylinder at time.