I have both blocks avalible to me, just wondering what is the pro's and con's of either other than weight. Thank you
TurbochevyII
Dart iron block or aluminum block for a 2000+ hp sbc
I am I the same position you are and I chose to run a Brodix aluminum block I had instead of iron. I'm not sure if this is the best choice but I think the weight is worth mor than the horspower trade off going to the aluminum block. I can tell you for sure in 2-3 weeks when I dyno the car. BTW miy car is a ChevyII also. Good luck with the build.
A dart aluminium block is not rated for high horsepower unless they changed something. Years ago when I looked at one they only rated it to 700hp.
I have a friend that is a well known engine builder that is running a 461cuin Dart aluminum SBC that makes over 1000+hp on motor spraying 2 foggers that puts it at 1600+ hp and is turning it 8500rpm. He has run this engine for over two years without any issues. The car has been 4.17 in 1/8th mile with powerglide trans. He is the one that convinced me that the weight savings was worth more than any potential hp losses. I would think that the turbo is much easier on the block duting power application compaired to nitrous and could handle the added hp. The block I have (Brodix) was in a outlaw car that had run mid 4's and the only thing I see on the block is that there was some minor cap fretting between the caps and block but this is fairly common even in much lower hp engines.
I worked at Dart for 3 years. I've seen a 2000 hp turbo small block rip the mains out. Dart has since added more material around the bottom of the cylinders and the newer aluminum blocks could probably hold it.
I would still run iron. More specifically, spend the extra money and special order a Dart block in Compacted Graphite Iron. It will cost you an extra $1000 or so and take longer to get. It's a better choice.
First, turbo cars usually have to weigh more in a class so weight savings isn't as vital as in a nitrous or n/a car. Keep in mind aluminum blocks were originally intended to save weight in naturally aspirated circle track/dirt track cars, not forced induction drag cars.
Second, even though a cast aluminum block may hold together it WILL flex like crazy compared to iron. You'll lose power in ring seal alone.
Third, a CGI block is something like 70% stronger than the standard iron. It won't distort, it will seal better, it will hold internal components tight and you'll break the crank first. Unless you totally grenade the engine it will be the last block you ever buy.
If you're dead set on aluminum and have the budget then billet would be a better choice than cast.
I would still run iron. More specifically, spend the extra money and special order a Dart block in Compacted Graphite Iron. It will cost you an extra $1000 or so and take longer to get. It's a better choice.
First, turbo cars usually have to weigh more in a class so weight savings isn't as vital as in a nitrous or n/a car. Keep in mind aluminum blocks were originally intended to save weight in naturally aspirated circle track/dirt track cars, not forced induction drag cars.
Second, even though a cast aluminum block may hold together it WILL flex like crazy compared to iron. You'll lose power in ring seal alone.
Third, a CGI block is something like 70% stronger than the standard iron. It won't distort, it will seal better, it will hold internal components tight and you'll break the crank first. Unless you totally grenade the engine it will be the last block you ever buy.
If you're dead set on aluminum and have the budget then billet would be a better choice than cast.
Greg, what does a CGI block go for? I was also wondering the same thing
Thanks for the info:supz:
Thanks for the info:supz:
Rick santo's ran 5.60's in top alcohol dragster in a sbc with a psi blower and brodix block I ran 210 mph@ 2850 with a chevy bowtie iron block with no problems
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