Deleted. Duplicate of your site

 

Here's a list of Mopar master cylinders .


https://www.dragstuff.com/techarticles/RacingMasterCylPN.html

Yes, that link is in my OP.

I'm look for a Chrysler style master with a 15/16 bore with a straight reservoir.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

On edit....I tree'd you

 

F body with mechanical brakes. Any parts store should be able to get one.

 

What year F body? It'll have a Chrysler style, aluminum master???? I thought GM had steel manual masters.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

F body Mopar, Volare, Aspen. Isn't this what you are looking for?

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...ion&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr_GLt_mv3wIVgkNpCh3g6g0zEAQYAiABEgKQr_D_BwE

 

I thought I used one from a charger. like a 85. they are listed as 21mm bore. It's still the same one on my car from when I put it on years ago and is now working with disks on all four wheels.

 

And yes, the reservoirs interchange between the bore sizes.

 

I need to get a smaller bore master for my brake set up.

why?

 

Back in the day before bump boxes evolved, I installed a Wilwood dual rear calipers on each wheel. I installed a Wilwood 1.125 master to feed the calipers. I had a total of six - 4 piston Wilwood calipers.

I want to narrow my current rear (Moser Fab 9, 40 spline) which involves moving the control arm mounts, cutting the axles and moving the shock mounts. So instead of doing all that work, I thought about just selling my current rear (housing, axles and brakes) minus the center section and buy a new housing.

Since I now have a bump box, I won't need the dual calipers anymore. A 1.125 bore master won't work with a single rear caliper kit.

Sound good?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

Strange has a 1.032 bore straight Chrysler style if that would work. Part # B3360

 

I'm running a strange master cylinder with disc brakes and no power assist, don't forget to make sure your pedal ratio is correct also.

 

At a minimum, you need to get it to 6:1
I prefer the ratio to be as close to 7:1 but I realize this is not always possible.


Ideally, yes the mc pushrod needs to be as close to level as possible as it moves through it's travel.

 

Not necessarily true. He can try the smaller bore master cyl with the same ratio, the smaller bore will yield a higher psi due to the smaller piston diameter. But the pedal might feel heavy, then a ratio change will be needed.


There is a mopar site somewhere that lists all the factory applications and bore size. On my Monte Carlo I use an 86 Plymouth Horizon master cylinder which I think was 7/8, it gave a great pedal feel with the factory G body pedal ratio. On my Wife's Nova I think I went with a mid 80's Caravan which was a 15/16 I think.

 

The G body came with two different brake pedals. One is the vacuum booster and the other is for the Powermaster. The PM pin is 1-1/8" higher than the vacuum brake pedal.

Plus, what push rod are you guys using for the master? The Chrysler stuff is usually 7/16"

The Caravan 15/16 master is for power brakes. I heard the end needs to be machined for the rod. I don't know if the Horizon master is for power or manual brakes.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

All the ones i use are from power brake cars. Pascal's Law doesn't know or care if it was manual or power brakes.

I make a pushrod out of a 3/8 - 24 grade 8 bolt but cutting off the hex and rounding the shank.

I also make a flat bracket with a hole in the middle so that there is no way the rod can come out.


If you buy a brand new Strange MC it comes with a 3/8-24 rod, so I'd venture to say a bulk of the chassis shops are building 3/8 rods.

 

There's a site with pics and detailed info on G body manual brakes.
http://www.maliburacing.com/manual_brake_conversion.htm
follow the links and you'll have what you need.

 

I use a manual brake master cylinder from an S10 on my Camaros. The race one has strange front brakes, drum on rear. I used the push rod that came with it, should fit G bodies like stock I'd think. actually used an adapter on the street cat to space it out. the race car i hogged the hole out and used the stock camaro manual brake rod and retainer.

 

All the ones i use are from power brake cars. Pascal's Law doesn't know or care if it was manual or power brakes.

The Mopar master cylinders for manual brakes are machined for a retaining grommet. It holds the rod in from falling out.

 

I guaranteed you he doesn't have them built to his spec. he's just another middle man and it's the same MC Wilwood sells that you can buy all day long from Summit and Jegs.

 

available with a 3/8" pushrod #260-4894 or without #260-4893

 

^^^^^^ Those are 1-1/16" bore. The ones in my link are 15/16".

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

you don't need a 15/16" MC and the one in your link says it's a 1 1/32" but it's really 1 1/16" as the Wilwood link I provided.

 

a return spring from the firewall to the pedal will prevent that...set it up so it keeps tension all the way thru the travel.

 

Or a solid pedal bumper, many cars have no pedal limiter and you can pull the pedal up until it swings into the dash.

 

His link has all 4 sizes does it not?

OP, what is the reason for the smaller bore?

 

The Dr. Diff sells either 1-1/32 or 15/16.

The reason for the smaller is the brake manufacturer (TBM) recommends higher pressure for their calipers. The master I current have on the car is 1-1/8. The 1-1/8 won't be able to reach the higher pressure.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

Had similar pedal ratio issues on my mates Fury, when we converted to it to manual brakes. We eventually went to 7/8” Bore master cylinder. What drove the decision was when we borrowed a brake pressure gauge, to see what pressure we were getting at the brake calliper

Was a couple of years back now, seem to think we only had 750lbs of pressure, which went up to around 1250lbs after the going to a smaller bore. Went from 1 1/8” to 7/8” Bore master cylinder

Brake pedal was close to 7:1 ratio, had to compromise due to pedal position, pedal height, as we modified the original pedal.

 

Per Mark Williams Enterprises whose brakes are drag racing's best and standard equipment on chassis builds by the best in drag racing, recommends a 1-1/8" Bore master cylinder when running Four 4-Piston Calipers. Same brakes on my car with the Wilwood 1 1/16" bore master cylinder and my brake pedal requires little effort, feels great and most important stages and stops my rocket without issue.

 

I've got the gauge and same here, no issue reaching that pressure.

 

Whether you have a problem or not depends on the diameter of your caliper pistons. If you have large ones, no problem. If they are small, big problem. The supplier wants the small master cylinder for a reason. So they work.

 

maybe there's a reason you don't see their brakes installed on builds by the best chassis shops.

 

Here is how you properly retain the pushrod.

https://www.jerrybickel.com/brake-kits-and-components/master-cylinder-pushrod-kit---jbrc1064.html

 

I use this pushrod safety kit from A.R.T.

https://www.appliedracing.com/brake-components/push-rod-kit-with-safety-tab.html