Yellow Bullet Forums banner
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
.

Exactly, I understand some guys love their car, I do to, but when I could afford to step up, I stepped up!!!

It's done, and done right, and let the other guy take the loss from building it!!!
1500 HP in a REAL racecar is 6 seconds, 200 MPH, and much much safer as mentioned!!!

.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I get what you guys are saying, and completely agree. When I first started building this car, it had a 347 in it which made enough power to break 11’s but I had no cage in it. I was still trying to figure the car out. That motor blew up and I built a 393 and knew I was gonna need a cage so I finally put one in. I was young. Took me about 2 years, of breaking things and figuring things out before I even ran an 11 or needed that cage. Right now, all I’d have to do is add the hallo and the a pillar bars to make it a ten point. My thought process behind asking this question originally is, if I do the ten point, that’ll get me to run 8.50s safely. Once I figure out the tuning, get the car dialed in, work out all the bugs, get that first 8.3 pass and know I can make the car faster from there, then I’ll start to really consider doing the 25.5. I’m not a professional racer. I do it for fun. I’m building a motor for 1500hp but if all I want out of it because of time and money is 1000 or 1100 and never crack 7s, so be it. At least I saved a few thousand dollars and don’t look like a caged animal at stop and shop when I’m taking the car to go buy milk. I appreciate everyone’s answers.
 
You've got a fox, You can get a 25.5 hold and weld cage from Team Z for around 1000 bucks. It's already fitted and notched. Super easy to put in because the hardest part is the fitting and notching. If you can halfway decently weld or have a buddy that can you'll save thousands and not spend the same money over multiple times and increasing rates everytime.

I can tell you from personal experience going fast with not enough cage going to update a cage like an 8 point into something else is a major pain in the ass because it's already burned in so it makes welding the extra bars harder. You'll end up cutting it out and starting all over. Also when you go into the better cages like 10 points and 25.5 the diameter goes down to 1 5/8 vs the 1 3/4 in the 6 and 8 point kits.

10 point cage will make you legal to 8.50. Difference between a 25.5 7.50 cage and the 8 point will be there is a subframe built under the floor, funny car cage, and I can't remember but I believe you have to X the door bars.

1500 crank is different then 1500 wheel and a stick is going be extremely hard on a chassis let alone a unibody, you run the risk of tweeking the body even with a 8 point because your welded to 6x6 plates.

Stiffer the car the fast it'll be.
 
.

I learned my lessons the hard way been on fire, been sideways, cut a front tire doing 170 etc etc.

I don't give a damn what I look like at the store or on the track, I learned it can end in an instant.
When I was only running 8.50's I got lined up with one of the 1st 5 second cars.
A MONSTER.
Well we take off, him like a bullet, me like a snail.
He blows up and goes up in flames.
Lucky he stayed straight and was so far ahead of me there was zero danger of any kind.

Just remember, it's not just you, it's the guy next to you also!!!
Just like Bruce Allen learned. The other guy was late as hell on the light and all hell broke loose!!!

Remember, I'm one of the idiots that run 9's with no cage and very very little safety gear!!!


.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
You've got a fox, You can get a 25.5 hold and weld cage from Team Z for around 1000 bucks. It's already fitted and notched. Super easy to put in because the hardest part is the fitting and notching. If you can halfway decently weld or have a buddy that can you'll save thousands and not spend the same money over multiple times and increasing rates everytime.
Lol are you high? Team z does not offer a 25.5 cage at all. Let alone one for around $1000. No body in this world offers an already notched and fitted 25.5 cage for anywhere near 1000 and if they do, I’m sure it’ll fit just as great as everyone’s On3 turbo kits do 😂😂
 
Fwiw, I just used Wild Rides race cars for an 8.50 pre notched cage. It was around $1200 in mild steel. Wild Rides has a bunch of mock-up cars at their shop, and when you order a cage kit, it is bent and notched, then tacked together in an actual car. The fit is incredible, as good or better than some of my other friends one off custom bent cages that were done by local guys. Fox body 25.5 pre notched on their web site is in the $32-3300 area, with no floor support system . Throw in having to do the under the floor stuff and it’s prob close to $5k for a pre notched complete 25.5 kit that’s actually worth buying. That’s providing you can weld it in yourself
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Fwiw, I just used Wild Rides race cars for an 8.50 pre notched cage. It was around $1200 in mild steel. Wild Rides has a bunch of mock-up cars at their shop, and when you order a cage kit, it is bent and notched, then tacked together in an actual car. The fit is incredible, as good or better than some of my other friends one off custom bent cages that were done by local guys. Fox body 25.5 pre notched on their web site is in the $32-3300 area, with no floor support system . Throw in having to do the under the floor stuff and it’s prob close to $5k for a pre notched complete 25.5 kit that’s actually worth buying. That’s providing you can weld it in yourself
They are one of the companies I emailed about the kit. It shows out of stock on their website so we’ll see what they say. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the fitment of their stuff.
 
21 - 30 of 30 Posts