[Infomaniac]

My vote is for Co2. It always worked well for me. Had it's own regulator so it stayed at a constant pressure.
If this is the only device that would use Co2, you will have to think harder on the pros and cons of each.

 

[tempname]

I have seen the claim many times that using dome pressure instead of spring pressure will prevent fluttering of the WG during spool up and shorten spool times.
Anyone have any data or experience to back this up? I have never really experienced that benefit. But haven't really tested much.

 

[Third Gen Racer]

@mufflerguy I had in my head you wanted him to plug the wastgate. As I reread our posts. I see that's not what you were saying.

 

[ShaunAED]

I run the Cortex EBC with the 4-port solenoid and no Co2 nor compressed air with a 6lb spring. No issues spooling nor control response at 1400+RWHP from a 85MM single turbo high 4sec coyote.

We've use this setup on a bunch of turbo coyotes from low boost to 35+psi, twins and single. Not one with Co2 nor compressed air. We use the 'spool' and 'launch' features to keep the gate closed till ~4psi less than desired boost. Works great.

We do have Co2 AMS controlled cars as well, but after I had a Co2 bottle explosion (over filled) while transporting it, I'll never run Co2. Instantly when that vent let go I couldn't see a damn thing and I was getting on the freeway at 60+MPH. Had to roll down the window and stick my head out just to safely pull over.
I can only imagine what that would be like at 150+MPH going down the track.

 

[Black_Sunshine_99]

I run the Cortex EBC with the 4-port solenoid and no Co2 nor compressed air with a 6lb spring. No issues spooling nor control response at 1400+RWHP from a 85MM single turbo high 4sec coyote.

We've use this setup on a bunch of turbo coyotes from low boost to 35+psi, twins and single. Not one with Co2 nor compressed air. We use the 'spool' and 'launch' features to keep the gate closed till ~4psi less than desired boost. Works great.

We do have Co2 AMS controlled cars as well, but after I had a Co2 bottle explosion (over filled) while transporting it, I'll never run Co2. Instantly when that vent let go I couldn't see a damn thing and I was getting on the freeway at 60+MPH. Had to roll down the window and stick my head out just to safely pull over.
I can only imagine what that would be like at 150+MPH going down the track.

Well and to be honest Shaun, the level this car is at nor what I'm doing with it benefits from using compressed air to control boost.
The previous owner installed the compressor so its wired, plumbed and ready to go and is the really the main reason I'm doing this.
It would be way more work for me to remove the compressor and associated wiring/components from the car then to re-route the lines and use it so I'm going to use it because why not.
I just reached the point in tuning where I can start adding boost so I'm not losing anything or even having to start over really plus if it becomes problematic, I'll just change it back.

 

[TurboII]

Drag racing my vote will be AIR/CO2 especially if you are limited on inputs such as gear position. Any traction limited drag race boost control strategy will benefit from launch boost setting and timed segments for the early part of the run after the transbrake release. I think the most ideal drag race setup is launch boost at starting line, timed segments to ~330ft and then transition to PID control referencing manifold pressure to the finish line.

Day to day street driving is probably better overall using turbo pressure with either PID control, Boost vs Gear or Boost vs MPH.

Just my $0.02

 

[Black_Sunshine_99]

Drag racing my vote will be AIR/CO2 especially if you are limited on inputs such as gear position. Any traction limited drag race boost control strategy will benefit from launch boost setting and timed segments for the early part of the run after the transbrake release. I think the most ideal drag race setup is launch boost at starting line, timed segments to ~330ft and then transition to PID control referencing manifold pressure to the finish line.

Day to day street driving is probably better overall using turbo pressure with either PID control, Boost vs Gear or Boost vs MPH.

Just my $0.02

I will definitely be drag racing the car at the track from time to time but street racing will be the focus so traction management will definitely be a priority.

 

[boostedbowtie]

I use on board air . I have a hook up in the bed for airing up tires and air bags , air line for chute , and it also runs my air horn ......lol

But yes , also for dome pressure .

But the great thing about on board air , is if you have leak somewhere , it will just fill back up .

 

[Black_Sunshine_99]

I use on board air . I have a hook up in the bed for airing up tires and air bags , air line for chute , and it also runs my air horn ......lol

But yes , also for dome pressure .

But the great thing about on board air , is if you have leak somewhere , it will just fill back up .

Ah see I didn't consider using it for a parachute, I definitely want to go fast enough to need one of those.

 

[Boosted Bullet]

I use the CO2 for for my shifter also.

 

[Black_Sunshine_99]

I use the CO2 for for my shifter also.

Now you have me wondering if I could use compressed air for a shifter as well.

 

[Monkey_Fab]

CO2 or HPA is certainly the way to go for dead nuts consistency. If you happen to need any solenoids dont forget lowdoller-motorsports as it will probably be one of the cheapest places to get the exact same thing most others sell.

 

[64nailhead]

What are thoughts on amount of pressure? Is there are the advantages or disadvantages of running 50-60 vs 100?

 

[mufflerguy]

What are thoughts on amount of pressure? Is there are the advantages or disadvantages of running 50-60 vs 100?

I run 80psi. Mainly because that is the psi setting for the pressure release valve on my bottle. You also need to pay attention to the quality of the lines and fittings you have used in your feed system.

 

[Black_Sunshine_99]

Okay gents, this was way too easy.
The previous owner ran the pressure line from the compressor all the way up to the mac valve so all I had to do was remove the reference line from the mac valve and plug the compressor line into the mac valve, so the swap is done.
Now for tuning, Chris at cortex said it's really dependent on how much boost I intend on running as well as other factors like WG spring, back pressure, etc. that will determine dome pressure.
He suggested starting with 20-30 psi of dome pressure as that's what most combinations require, if my duty cycle is very low but hits target boost then reduce dome pressure, if I'm at 100% duty cycle and can't hit the boost target than add dome pressure.
I'll be curious to see if this eliminates my boost spike on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts as well.
Looking forward to testing this spring, will report back on how well it works.