similar setup .... but stock size studs, TFS heads and not filled L33 block. 30 psi from s485 turbo. 8000 rpm all year ran 5.22@139 3000lbs . tore it down this winter and every thing looked new.

 

How long has this combo been together? I'm also running an unfilled L33 block, and over the xmas holidays switched from a solid motor mount to a motor/mid plate to get the stress off the sides of the block. 23.5# on C16, shifting at 7000. I broke the block after a driveshaft failure, and after 3 years of street driving and 90 passes, the bearings looked like it just went together. Block limitations is what I'm trying to gather data on.

 

With cam and intake to run 8500rpm and IAT < 120F. I'd figure fuel (CC temps higher than M1), thin deck head and MLS HGs (no fire/sealing ring) will probably limit you to 1300whp. Pour on the boost after 6500, don't get greedy with timing and let us know.

 

Went out yesterday. Went mid 5.40s at 131-132. Ran it up to 32-33 pounds on conservative timing. IAT was in the low 100s. (Measured in the plenum of a carb setup "wet") Coolant pressure and pan vac seamed steady so I think it was happy. I'll probably not go up on boost and creep up on the timing.
I'm 3330 pounds. Per the Wallace calculator, that falls close to the same power as [B]gbeauregard[/B].

 

Watch the plugs bro.

 

I have a hard time reading fuel on this combo. But yes I'll keep and eye on them while creeping up on it.

 

Well done. 1075ish whp. Drop back rpm on shift? What rpm and timing with peak boost? What plug and what do they show? BTW - what turbo(s)? Thanks for sharing.

 

This engine has been in the car for 31 passes. The first 15 with a converter that was tight. Shifting at 7700 it dropped to 6100 at 30 psi. (1.80 powerglide). This converter shift at 7700 it drops to high 7000s. It's been pretty hard to nail this down because all of my testing has been toward noprep setup, so it's been on crap track with varying amounts of wheel speed/spin. I'm running motor and midplate. Turbo is a S485. CSU blow through on E85 with Holley Dominator ECU.

 

Why a holly dominator with a blow thru carb?

 

Any back pressure data on 96 (assuming 1.32) turbine at 8K and 30psi?

 

yes on the 1.32 ,no data, added back pressure sensor with the new turbo but im sure it was high, couldnt make anymore boost

 

LS3, you talking chp or whp? What rpm? Trap mph?

 

pretty sure we are talking FWHP

 

I’m going off the Wallace calculator but my car is 3200lbs and went 7.78@175

 

Thanks Ls3. Cars working well! Wallace showing 1205whp and 1340fhp. What rpm?

 

Thanks it goes threw the traps at 7800ish 3.27 rear gear

 

How much power are you leaving on? 60' times with that gear? Tire?

 

You guys around 18 deg timing on stock block and 28 lbs?

 

I'm at 21* of timing at 23.5# on C16

 

Thankyou.That sounds right on for 23 lb area.Im gonna try 19 deg next time out at 28 lbs with 1 range cooler plug.

 

I'm building an L33 for a twin turbo to push around 1k (limits of the turbo) and I'm interested in block strength and stock crank limits. Some folks show the crank starts to flex around and pinch bearings around 900 or so I'm shooting for around 800 at the tire (also a limit of the 4L65E RPM tranny, it's in a C5 vette). Sounds like the block is plenty strong, and poured I'd think the block would be safe from 1200-1400 HP. Crank I wouldn't trust too much above 900. So in my case, I'm going to toss in a voo doo lunati crank I have lying around for a little insurance and better low end torq. I'm going to cam and limit revs to around 7k if the turbos don't choke it too bad.

I'm running ball bearing t3/t4 turbos that spool quick but choke up top a bit so I'm going to 3" down pipes and exh.

Now onto the heads. the 1/2 studs and a decent thick deck head should do fine around 1200 I would think.

 

Update here. I have been 5.20 @ 133.8 with 1.138 60' Been several mid 5.20s at 133 with 1.13-1.15 60' all at 3290 pounds.

 

Damn that 60’ is killer I’ve been 4.99 on a sbe ls3 went out last weekend made 5 5.0-5.1x hits and 4 7.8-7.9 passes still runs like a champ

 

Any issues leaving on the trans brake with the stock cranks? I was thinking of a budget build 5.3 with a single gt45. Not a big power engine, but will move a light car as much as a fairly new driver needs at the track.

 

Well over 100 passes on mine. Stock crank, block , heads and intake. Leaving on anywhere from 9-11 psi @ 3400 on a radial tire

 

Only thing I'v seen on my combo that worries me is my oil pressure. At 30-32 pounds of boost my oil pressure will be in the mid 60s, doesn't matter if it's at 7100 right after the shift or 7850 at the stripe. And I'm ok with that. But I'v hit my boost safety a couple times and when it reverts to gate, the oil pressure will go up to mid to high 70s at same rpm just without as much boost (load). I assume when the engine is loaded the crank is being pushed down and increasing the clearance in the top half of the main? Pan vac stays in the mid to high 70s kpa the full run.

 

My understanding is that pan vac will show as a loss of gauge pressure for oil. Think that has anything to do with your readings?

 

Maybe a thrust issue?

 

with a half filled block I'd run the rods with the normal thou per inch, but on the mains i'd expect you to need to go something real tight... then run like a 0-5w20 in it. So I think you need to either sort your oil cooling (improve it's efficiency) or increase your pump volume, or even both.

Once you do that I think you'll be able to easily go until the heads lift. Just keep torque under control to keep the caps from taking a walk (shouldn't be a problem with this displacement). Also I would recommend an ATI damper if you don't have one. Their testing showed a pretty decent reduction in crank snout flex. I personally think a good damper for high rpm is a must for any engine you want to live. That's my 2c, might not be worth anything, but at least food for thought.

Especially on a stock crank... could also be possible that at some resonance (rpm) the crank is wobbling a bit, and pushing oil out of the mains, which is fine, but then causes lower pressure as it's essentially leaking the wedge. But, again start with an oil analysis. they're cheap. and you can tell if the bearings are taking a beating. Catch something like that early enough and it's a weekend project to drop some new bearings and a pump in.

Or even a new crank. I would trust a 1 grand ccw cheap crank to well above what the heads will stay clamped on stock diameter 4 bolt. There's even a guy who ran the piss out of his 388" (Far north racing on youtube) k1 non ccw crank to like 9k rpm in the traps (those are what $700, but worth to just get the ccw as they're way stronger).

Just figure out why you're dropping oil pressure to make sure it isn't something bad. Then you have options on the table, and can even just swap stuff over to another block. I'm curious if it's just oil temp growing the block.

 

with a half filled block I'd run the rods with the normal thou per inch, but on the mains i'd expect you to need to go something real tight... then run like a 0-5w20 in it. So I think you need to either sort your oil cooling (improve it's efficiency) or increase your pump volume, or even both.

Once you do that I think you'll be able to easily go until the heads lift. Just keep torque under control to keep the caps from taking a walk (shouldn't be a problem with this displacement). Also I would recommend an ATI damper if you don't have one. Their testing showed a pretty decent reduction in crank snout flex. I personally think a good damper for high rpm is a must for any engine you want to live. That's my 2c, might not be worth anything, but at least food for thought.

Especially on a stock crank... could also be possible that at some resonance (rpm) the crank is wobbling a bit, and pushing oil out of the mains, which is fine, but then causes lower pressure as it's essentially leaking the wedge. But, again start with an oil analysis. they're cheap. and you can tell if the bearings are taking a beating. Catch something like that early enough and it's a weekend project to drop some new bearings and a pump in.

Or even a new crank. I would trust a 1 grand ccw cheap crank to well above what the heads will stay clamped on stock diameter 4 bolt. There's even a guy who ran the piss out of his 388" (Far north racing on youtube) k1 non ccw crank to like 9k rpm in the traps (those are what $700, but worth to just get the ccw as they're way stronger).

Just figure out why you're dropping oil pressure to make sure it isn't something bad. Then you have options on the table, and can even just swap stuff over to another block. I'm curious if it's just oil temp growing the block.

Some real good info right here. The crank is your issue once you get passed 1000. I am at that number now, and looking to go higher. I've had a lot of smart people (Turbo II, Z and a few others) offer up their experience/knowledge to help me make educated decisions on this next bullet. I am running the L33 aluminum 5.3 block .020 over to keep the liners nice and thick, and am looking to make 1250, on a stock, unfilled block. From the info these guys have shared, at 1250, its the crank that I needed to change. Past 1000, crank flex, and as such cap walk is the issue. I inquired about girdles (which a steel girdle in an aluminum block to me makes no sense) and pinning the mains (better plan) and partial fills, and was told I wasn't at the power level that required any of that yet. Especially on a legit street car. I am putting a Callies 8 CCW crank in it, with manley rods and wiseco boost pistons from Tooley. 1/2" head studs with the LS9 head gaskets and TFS as cast 220's. Boost will stay below 30. Much of how well these motors run, and last, is in the quality of the tune, and the quality of the fuel, from what I have learned over the last few years.[/QUOTE]

 

I would not recommend running tighter main clearance on high hp engines period and certainly not on one with a stock crank flopping around in it. They can and will touch down. I would personally run more clearance and a standard weight non-synthetic oil especially anyone running methanol. The Lucas Plus line of racing oils is an excellent choice. They do make it in a 20w-50 and I personally use the straight 50wt Plus oil. I also run pan/oil tank heaters prior to running the engine too. The "plus" is a very high zinc additive package that was developed when Lucas was the title sponsor for NHRA TAFC/TAD. I'm not saying just dump it in and its a cure all. The engine needs to be planned out before building with things like what fuel, what weight oil etc determined and alloances made for them. It can obviously be done other ways but IMHO this is the correct way to go.

 

Don’t care for the synthetic oils?

 

25 years of racing on methanol, and I agree. We run VR1 oil. The heater is super helpful, and it is important to actually get some heat in the engine, particularly before shut down. I will run half a season on the oil. I also run a vacuum pump which is very helpful.
Clearance wise.....way too loose, and you will know it. Way too tight and everyone knows it.

 

I know you were talking to t2, but I will use either version of the vr1. Synthetic or not. Have had no issue with either. Just haven't shown an advantage with the synthetic.