Perhaps it is the output shaft.

 

Looks to me that your short on spline engagement causing drive shaft whip . with the drive shaft installed how far is your pullout from bottoming out? 1/2" is good 1" is to much
Frank

 

The yoke our running is not hard enough.
Roller bearing tail housings require special yokes....

 

There is some runout on the output splines by the look of the wear pattern but the yoke appears to be running way too far out of the tailhousing.


Hutch

 

So looks like the driveshaft is a little too short?? I'll have to see how far it does pull out. I know its always looked to be out of the trans too far. I'll report back later today. Thanks guys.

 

Looks like 1" to maybe 1.0625" that it is pulled out of the trans, from being completely bottomed out. The tailhousing seal was just replaced also...maybe the old one was ruined by the "whip" you guys are referring to?

 

That is too much and most likely your problem.......

1/2" is plenty..............

 

It may pull out 1" from bottoming on something inside the trans but when its bottomed , is the yoke right up against the seal? Ideally we want to keep the U joint as close to the trans as possible.


Hutch

 

Here it is with the driveline seated in the rear end yoke. The rear suspension is hanging so it would go in slightly more than this while going down track.

 

No where near enough engagement, You can see where the seal rides on the Yoke. Radial imbalance is creating the issue where one side of the yoke is wore more than the other. Need a longer drive shaft.

 

you need a longer shaft and a shorter yoke

 

Out way too far. IMO. Must be twisted not allowing any more inward movement.

 

Kyle, I just replace one on my car that would slide in and stop before going in all the way. It was twisted. Hard to see the twist inside. The new one slid in to the seal.

Try sliding a new yoke on.

 

With it "bottomed out", there is 1" of shiny portion of the yoke still showing. In the pic above, with it hooked to the rear yoke, there is 2" of shiny portion showing. So no, it does not slide all the way up to the U-joint portion of the yoke.
Longer ds needed???

 

With it "bottomed out", there is 1" of shiny portion of the yoke still showing. In the pic above, with it hooked to the rear yoke, there is 2" of shiny portion showing. So no, it does not slide all the way up to the U-joint portion of the yoke.
Longer ds needed???

Kyle, if you have another "known good" yoke around, I would try sliding it in. Most I have used slide right up to the u-joint portion. You might have a twist preventing the last inch from sliding in. That's how mine was. Thought mine was fine but couldn't figure out why I had a tough time taking the driveshaft out. Mine was twisted deep.

I also measured my ride height and full range of the shocks. Disconnected the shocks and made sure I had enough in and out room from fully extended to fully compressed. I was amazed mine only moved about 1/4" in and out through the full range.

 

Ya I knew they dont move much throughout shock travel. I know there has been a time or two where this one is a bitch to get out of the tailshaft...Im assuming this is from the twist that you are talking about. Looks like a longer shaft is in order. If I posted to dimension from end of tailshaft, to machined flat on the rear yoke, could someone tell me what a driveline should measure center to center?

 

Pull the tail off and see why it won't go in further.


Hutch

 

Hutch,
I cant see anything wrong with it. I did verify the splines go deeper in the yoke and they indeed do. I tried to sight down the splines, looking for a twist, but with the naked eye I dont see anything out of alignment.

 

Splines are too short? My thoughts were that possibly the yoke is stopping on the spline end (short spline) or there is a bend that is giving you a false sense on the yoke bottoming out. Pulling the tail will verify it then you can make a change to correct it.


Hutch

 

As was mentioned try a known good similar yoke,if you have same engagement I would suspect twisted output shaft splines.
pull off ext. housing as Hutch recommended to make sure if something else is not holding it up.

 

Well, I pulled the tail housing off. Verified that the yoke is NOT sliding all the way on...you can see about an inch of splines in the picture. I measured the length of the internal splines on the yoke, and checked that to the amount of engagement that is happening. Still, roughly 1" that the yoke should slide on further.
I will check with a new yoke and figure out which splines are messed up. Im thinking that when the power is applied, the driveshaft is pulled back 1" from where it falsely bottoms out. Because of the lack of spline engagement, the splines on the output shaft or the yoke have started to twist just in front/behind of the actual spline engagement.

 

How about a picture of the output shaft only.

 

x2. Splines must be twisted on the output shaft.

 

New slip yoke stops at the same spot. I tried using 1500 grit paper with WD40 to clean any burrs off the splines...OD, and in between each spline. Still no luck. There is no obvious twist at all. I even put a straight edge against both sides of each spline and cannot find any that look anything other than perfect. Weird....

 

i'd cut 1"off the old one and see if it goes to the same place on the tail shaft.if it did i'd run it.

 

I would probably try this as well as long as you have at least 3" of spline engagement and the yoke still moves freely with the full range of suspension travel.
You will have to lengthen full length of shaft then by 1" to make up the difference.

 

If you tap it onto the spline do you see shiney marks where there is interference? Is the spline OD constant all the way down? It should go further onto the spline.


Hutch

 

Okay guys,
Here is the output shaft by itself....from what I can see, along with using a precision ground straight edge...the splines are not twisted. Hutch, I'll go measure the OD of the shaft. I do not see any sort of shiny marks on anything. The new Moser yoke is coated with a black coating....still no shiny wear marks on it either.

SORRY THE PIC ISNT VERY FOCUSED....Put a straight edge on your computer screen and tell me what you think.

 

Hutch, OD measure 1.172-1.173 all the way down the splined portion. If anything, the "sticky" area of the shaft is .001 under the rear portion of the shaft.