It was considered good 50years ago. New technology likely kicks it's ass. I am using amsoil racing oil which is pricey but is a pretty highly rated oil. I've played with a few expensive oils and often wonder how they all compare but I still prefer a good full synthetic simply because it holds it's viscosity after a period of run time where dino oil thins when heated up to temp. just my personal opinion.

 

Does the Amsoil racing oil have Zinc?

 

I use it regularly, its my go-to oil.

 

i just use penn grade oil 20/50. regardless of cost not worth scimping imo

 

VR1 20W50 here. Been running it the last 4 years. Zero oil related issues in all that time. I spin my 5.3 ls to 7500.

 

VR1 20/50 all I've used.

 

I've used it on street cars for years, no complaints here. 5qt jug is $26.99 at my local parts store

 

Brad Penn / Penn Grade 1 order by the case it’s $7.50 / Qt.

 

I have also been using 10W40VR1 after good reports... but cannot yet report my full results except to say, so far seems good

 

Been running it or 10w/30 for years. Broke in a new cam with it last fall. Old engine I freshened over the winter looked great, reused the cam and lifters from original build. Both are solid lifter FT with 130 on the seat.

 

Vr 1 in my race car 30 years on menthol never a problem bearing look new every time I freshen it up

 

Kool or Newport Menthol?

Sorry, it was just sitting there waiting for somebody to take a swing at it.

 

Used that exact oil in my 400sbc solid ft motor for 5 years. I used Brad Penn in my ne motor to run 10-40 weight

 

I've always ran Royal Purple HPS in all my vehicles and love it. Some hate it. But I always use elev8 powertrain treatment as well. It's cheap for the 10 hp difference it made in my challenger.

 

use 5-30 pennzoil in my vega ,had same bearings for 12 years making 968hp with a 364 sbc with nitrous

 

VR1 user here too, every time my motor is freshened, engine builder always comments on my tuneup and tells me the bearings look great. refresh every 100.

 

No problems here

 

My car always .540 faster on kools .Not sure what I am going to do when Biden outlaws them . Lol

 

20w50? That's like running molasses through an engine. It's usually used as a bandaid for another problem. Oil tech has come a long way and 20W50 is old school. You'll see a lot of the top shops run much thinner oils now. 5W30 or 10W30 is all that's needed outside of some radical applications. Some people run 0W40 or thinner. There's power to be made with thinner oil.

 

20w/50 is what's most commonly available. NAPA did carry 10w/30, I stocked up a couple years ago. 20w/50's not bad in the heat of summer.

 

My engine builder uses Champion racing oils in his and customers engines. It’s not walk into a parts store and buy though.

 

I run exclusively Amsoil Dominator oil in my stuff. Ran the VR1 synthetic before, bearings look better with Amsoil.

 

Amazon use to have this for $55 . Its gone up lately but still seems to be the best price out there

Amazon.com

 

What do you think Pro Stock bearing clearances are with the thin oil they use?

 

Ran 20w50 for several years , hard to get hot without heater pad on pan, especially on cooler race morning, if rounds are few hours apart hard to keep temp and et would vary my first time shot was always a toss away.
Sucks for a bracket engine, vr1 10w30 is way to go
20w50 is a bandaid for issues

 

I love how every oil thread, no matter the subject, somehow gets turned into "post your favorite oil"

 

Valvoline® VR1 Racing 20W-50 Motor Oil - 1 Quart

Valvoline® VR1 Racing Oil's high zinc provides race-level protection for high-performance engines on the racetrack or the highway. Valvoline® Racing Oil's exclusive chemistry reduces friction and enhances power. It is among the most popular engine lubricants in all types of racing including...

www.menards.com

4.99 with a $0.55 mail-in rebate

 

Are you sure it still has zinc/phosphorous. Does it have an API label on the bottle? Are you talking about Mobil one? If it has an API label I doubt it still has the heavy metal additives flat tappet cams need to protect the wear surfaces. JMO.

 

Yes, Mobil 1. I look it up periodically, and 15w50 was the only common grade with adequate ZDDP. It was listed at 1300 ppm, where the others were 800 or less. It's not a common weight for new cars, so I guess that is why it escaped the reduction. I don't remember looking up the 0w50 or 0w30. Is it marketed for racing like the 15w50? The more common weights were 800 or less. I always ran flat tappets on street cars, and never had a failure with the 15w50. If the 0w30 and 0w50 is marketed for modern cars, I'm not sure how they could add much ZDDP... but it would be nice if they somehow did.