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vacuum pump breather tanks discussion

12K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  Martin Shows  
#1 ·
i have a moroso breather tank on my car and the oil misting sucks on my painted engine bay. the pumps reg is shimmed for 10lbs, and ive tried wristbands and socks etc over the years and it helps slightly til its saturated and then its as bad again.

allstar, GZ, jegs, what brand tanks have you guys had better luck with?
 
#6 ·
its not blowby, i put on on this engine 6 years ago and it was built not intended for a vacuum pump, had it dont over 2.5 years ago this time with low tension rings for a vacuum pump and its still the same shit.

its the short moroso, a few buddies also have the same issue. thanks for the replies fellas
 
#10 ·
i dont think its a pump or engine problem honestly many people i know have the same issue on their street cars and live with wiping the inner fender down every few weeks. I have the short 6" moroso and ive never filled it completely, since the filters saturated already itll fill up only 1-2" inches and itll start to mist residue on my inner fender where its mounted.

to get to that point ill average 10-15 passes and 75-125 miles on the street. Id say 1/2 those street miles are spent on the highway cruising.
 
#11 ·
I ended up making my own, because most on the market are shit.

A seperator or breater, should be able to be opened for maintenance. It should have coarse stainless or some type of vapor removing media. It should also have baffles and vent tubes arranged properly.

If your filter is getting soaked with oil,mits because the filter is taking the place of the stainless wool that should be INSIDE the breather/seperator.
 
#12 · (Edited)
this is the one i will be going with

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/85467/10002/-1 this has baffles in it to stop oil from misting out

Moroso 85467 - Moroso Oil Breather Tank Details



Remote breather with superior air/oil separation performance
A perfect companion for engines equipped with dry sump pumps, vacuum pumps or non-dry sump or non-vacuum pump equipped engines that historically have "pushed oil" with other breather tanks
-12 AN male side fitting and an -8 AN drain plug Features internal baffling with mesh media for superior separation of air and oil
Black powder coated finish
Includes a panel mount, billet aluminum clamp that has two supplied 1/4" -20 mounting hardware
 
#13 ·
I run the Moroso tank. The first 3 yrs I never had more than a shot glass of oil in it after 25 passes and it seldom ever showed any oil smoke and no residue on the firewall. I increased the oil to the top of my engine to help with valve spring life during the last freshen up. Now I get oil smoke and have to use the wrist bands so that tells me the problem is oil mist flying around inside the covers being pulled into the pump. I also built a separate tank and used a close nipple to attach it to the bottom of the Moroso. I thought the oil would drain into the lower tank so it would be less likely to want to blow out the vent. This did nothing for mine. Find an area where there is no oil flying around and I think the problem will be fixed in a well sealed motor. I'm wondering about the lifter valley under the intake?
 
#16 ·
thanks stealth and realmckoy

and as far as oil mist goes mayb its the position on the valvecover. and i was told the same thing anything more then 12-14"s u run the risk of running wrist pins dry.


remember too in the short moroso 1-2" of oil is only about a shot glass worth. il try the taller one first and take it from there.
 
#18 ·
The Moroso also has a baffle but that doesn't seem to be all that effective. If I could find some old very coarse shredded mess I would like to put it inside the tank and see if that did anything.
 
#28 ·
Exactly. But only you would know this and no one else picked up on it. Having a filter over the regulator is a good idea. Having the regulator in the valve cover is not. When the regulator reaches its set point it opens and lets air into the engine to keep the vacuum from increasing. However, it has now created a path of air through the crankcase and promotes the vac pump to syphon windage from the engine and ultimately blows this oil into the puke tank. This condition contributes to the very problem described throughout this topic. I see guys spend hours trying to find and fix gaskets and seals that leak then put a regulator in the valve cover and purposely create a leak! Take the regulator out of the valve cover and place it directly on the vac pump. Now the air bypassed by the regulator will not be introduced into the engine. The vac pump will pull less oil and your pump will be happier because it will now have ambient air flowing through it instead of preheated crankcase air. Just a suggestion.
Star Hg
 
#29 ·
Exactly. But only you would know this and no one else picked up on it. Having a filter over the regulator is a good idea. Having the regulator in the valve cover is not. When the regulator reaches its set point it opens and lets air into the engine to keep the vacuum from increasing. However, it has now created a path of air through the crankcase and promotes the vac pump to syphon windage from the engine and ultimately blows this oil into the puke tank. This condition contributes to the very problem described throughout this topic. I see guys spend hours trying to find and fix gaskets and seals that leak then put a regulator in the valve cover and purposely create a leak! Take the regulator out of the valve cover and place it directly on the vac pump. Now the air bypassed by the regulator will not be introduced into the engine. The vac pump will pull less oil and your pump will be happier because it will now have ambient air flowing through it instead of preheated crankcase air. Just a suggestion.
Star Hg
That makes some sense. I'll move my regulator when I get a chance and see if that helps.