Pretty sure it is suggested at 25 lbs-ft.

 

25 for me.

 

Put a drop of Loctite on each bolt before you tighten them up.

And DON'T let the pin protrude through the plate, we learned about this years ago!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of why I say don't line up the pin and the "designated" hole, if the pin ever decides to "leave", covering it with the lock plate will help keep it in place like a retainer.

 

Has anyone seen issues with 25# and the standard cam bolts coming loose in 60mm tool steel cams? We've had two cases now and have moved to the arp2000 cam bolts at 32-35# with loctite. Hope these cure the issue.

 

I've never had any cam bolts ever come loose at 25 lbs. and locktite. Except once, when a roundly rounder hit the wall, bent the balancer, and every pan, valve cover, and cam bolt came loose on the next race. I'd say you have something vibrating that shouldn't be.

 

Blue Loctite is plenty of strength to hold a 5/16 bolt just make sure that the bolts lengths is long enough for max. engagement. Chase the holes with a bottoming tap first in the cam. The grade bolt you use determines torque value. Green Loctite should be used on dowel pin. Heat will allow easy removal. When people change componets you have to rethink the fasteners as well. Sometimes the bolts come up to short. Just Helping here.

 

And to add as a general rule and it is written as well, thread engagement is body diameter plus two or three threads at a min. into like material. In cast iron two times body diameter and alum three times if that is possible. and you,ll sleep at night.

 

I sure wish they put fine threads in the cam bolts like the old Hemis were.
I like the ARP bolts with red loctite. 32#