Hello. End play is .005", this is not a question about end play.
There is no dowels for these engines.
Removed Cap for Rear Main Seal. Going back together now.
Setting Thrust --Alignment-- using the pry bar on crank or tap crank method(hokey to say the least)
My measurements using a feel gauge there is a .008-9" difference im Bearing halves.
Bearing in Block measures .005-6"
Bearing in Cap measure .013-14"
Using a feeler gauge.
So Ive already RTV'd the new RMS and put Annerobic sealant on a small edge section of the Cap. Should I take everything back apart start over?
Next time can I not just tap the Cap to where it should be? Smacking the Crank to move a Main Cap that fits very snug in tue register is not a great idea, Imo.
Maybe use a feeler to set it where I think it should be then pry or tap the Crank in usual method, tighten it down?
Oh, added question: You pry or tap moving the Crank to flywheel first. Then you pry/tap to move towards Balancer last? Correct?
There is no dowels for these engines.
Removed Cap for Rear Main Seal. Going back together now.
Setting Thrust --Alignment-- using the pry bar on crank or tap crank method(hokey to say the least)
My measurements using a feel gauge there is a .008-9" difference im Bearing halves.
Bearing in Block measures .005-6"
Bearing in Cap measure .013-14"
Using a feeler gauge.
So Ive already RTV'd the new RMS and put Annerobic sealant on a small edge section of the Cap. Should I take everything back apart start over?
Next time can I not just tap the Cap to where it should be? Smacking the Crank to move a Main Cap that fits very snug in tue register is not a great idea, Imo.
Maybe use a feeler to set it where I think it should be then pry or tap the Crank in usual method, tighten it down?
Oh, added question: You pry or tap moving the Crank to flywheel first. Then you pry/tap to move towards Balancer last? Correct?