If Reher-Morrison stands behind it, it's a good piece.

 

I know you probably already looked at mine for sale, but it is twice the motor that one is and a cam change away from what you are looking for. I could do 18,500 and that would give you enough money to pay for the cam and have your professional of choice to inspect it. Not to mention all the goodies it has and the fact that it does not have the street car h-beam rods or the 355 heads. No pressure, just making a point if you are serious.

 

^^^Blair, that's a bad piece...very similar to mine, except my 582 (For Sale) has 3 Steve Johnson foggers, has a 9.8 Brodix aluminum block, has Brodix 1802 Heads, ProSystems carb, etc.. Mine is a very very light combo...weighed 170# lighter than my 638 10.2 Dart Big M dual carb 2 stage drysump combo.

Nosnova, Reher Morrison is top of the line in my book.

 

Thanks guys you both have badass pieces.Id defently be interested if they were not aluminum rod motors.Not that theres anything wrong with that but just wont fit what im trying to do with street driving some.Plus my budget wont be happy tearing it down to replace rods every 75 passes.Is thereany pros or cons on comparing fulton and RM? Are they priced comparably? Fulton is closer to me (12 hours away)and RM has free shipping.

 

nosnova, how much power are you looking for?

 

Enough to push a 3500lb car into the 7s and have it live sat night cruise to the local hangout during summer months .Talked to RM yesterday and the motor i posted they offer is 13.9 to 1 and there 1450hp is with a 450-500shot.What amazed me when i talked to them was the fact they use isky redzone lifters with needle bearings.Said they have no issues with them.RM defently knows there shit but i would think a 1500hp bbc with a .842 needle bearing lifter is walking on thin ice

 

We are in the exact same boat. I have a 3461lb 68 Camaro street car, was trying to determine what I'd need to spend on a bbc to run high 7's and be okay street driving. I'm probably going to chicken out and just mess with my current piece more with some tweaks. Good luck and thanks for posting.

 

Manley steel rods are junk,option for the GRPs,Tit valves are a waste of money on these 565s
since they dont need to buzz that high
but basically the 565 I have is a replica of the RM piece and its been easy to maintain
and never gives me any grief

 

They said they inspect every motor they rebuild and never have a problem with the manleys but i could opt for a oliver if i wanted.They said they dont suggest a aluminum rod for any street use due to cycle life of the rod.

 

I ran a 588" with .842 Isky lifters with needle bearings and a0.900+ lift cam for 3 years, 8000 rpm. No problems.

 

Wow thats pretty impressive.I hear of all sorts of stories of needle bearing lifters coming apart and making a mess.Maybe its the street use that kills em

 

My nitrous 565, made 1027 n/a. Every single piece is an off the shelf part, except the cam. Even the CNC ported heads. I would imagine theirs makes a few more than that, but probably not much over 1100, if at all. As far as titanium valves being a waste of money, I guess that depends on what you need for flow. They substantially increase flow, which is a major factor on any nitrous combo. At the moment mine has stainless valves, but first refresh, they will be changed out.

 

Reher said theres makes 980-1000hp on motor and the 1450hp advertised was with the fogger spraying 450-500

 

I would not be scared to run the aluminum rods on the street. There is a lot of myth about running them. They last a long time and you can beat the piss out of em.. And the .842 lifter lasts as well.

 

250 passes and around 200 miles on my GRP aluminum rods . if a was not freshening the engine . I would of kept running them .

 

^^^ We have used GRP in the past, but went with MGP the last freshen on our Fulton 706. The MGP is a very impressive rod.

http://www.mgpconnectingrods.com/

 

Just curious what you saw that made you switch to MGP? I've used GRP for years in 3 engines and never had any issues and it seems to be the rod of choice for a majority of people.

 

I was told by a well known pro mod guy the rods are identical from both shops.He said he goes back and fourth with no weight change.

 

^^^ They are ntt identical, because we used both GRP & MGP, & compared them side by side. The now deceased owner of MGP, previously worked with GRP. My understanding is that the metallurgy of the MGP rod is superior. All I do know, aside from what my engine builder recommended, is that when we broke the crank & block on our 738 @ 7800 & 200 MPH, the MGP rods were twisted like a pretzel...but they did not break. As with most racing Parts, there are many great connecting rod products on the market.

 

Yes, Mike was at GRP & spun out on his own. If the metallurgy was superior it would seem everyone would be using the MGP rods wouldn't they? I know if that was true I wouldn't waste a minute switching over and either would 99% of racers & engine builders I would think.

 

Well, take this for what it is worth. I had a new set of GRP 5500 series rods in a previous 565, n20 application, had 8 1/8 mile runs, broke a rod in the middle of the beam at 330' in to the run, broke the motor, serious backfire, broke the n20 lines, fuel everywhere, car on fire, 2nd degree burns on my face, $20,000 car repair bill, not to mention medical bills. This might have something to do with my choice of MGP iver GRP, plus the above personal experience with our 738, where the rods all survived a serious parts carnage.

Both are good rods...used by many racers.

 

Anything RM puts their name on is a good piece- simple as that.

 

How far are you going to drive a 13to 1 motor on the street ? I hope you have a big radiator....Cause it will make some heat with that compression...

 

Doing a mild motor for the street now that's over that, 14 to 1. It is set up to also run "very respectable" on premium pump gas. Have a bigger motor I'm doing that has high compression too. But that one will be limited street miles.

But both are aluminum block motors. Did a cast block and head 396 years ago that was just about 13 -1 and it survived well with no real issue. So I wouldn't worry about compression myself

 

Ok seems this got off track, OP sorry.

We used a lot of Manly al rods with good results over the years. Don't know anything about these steel rod, but if RM is going to stand behind them, they must be good or somewhat respectable, right????

Funny, notice there is no "name" call-out on a crank?? That would have ME thinking more then the rods. Remember this motor only makes that power on the spray, so unless it's every run, you should be fine.

Like mentioned here, both the smaller .842 lifters and these rods are OK. Yes there are better, but it seems RM feel these are alright in this application.

I'm sure you could upgrade to something your more comfortable with if you want too? It's you call, money and ultimately your choice.

GOOD LUCK

 

But wait, the dipshit in post #8 said the Manley Rods are junk. I guess the guys at Reher Morrison don't know that yet.

 

The guys at RM said they inspect every part of motors they originally assembled on freshen up to look for flaws or weak points and have never saw a issue with the manleys.Im going to ipgrade to a Oliver for the little more just because.

 

Thanks for posting this. Looking at this an option for my next motor. Just hope its atleast as fast as my small block.

 

Months testing and 1250 miles Drag Week 2011..GRP Aluminum Rods. Myth for sure! .842 needle bearings too.

 

You need a big inch motor and a procharger fo that power and street able. Jmo