Driven GP1 semisynthetic oil formulated @ American Refinery in Bradford Pennsylvania is Brad Penn oil with different additive package and indeed a good move.

Allison Castrol Transynd 295 is about the best trans fluid going for performance or towing except for the newer Transynd 668.

Cenpeco and Shaeffers are not that well accepted to this point.

 

Driven GP1 semisynthetic oil formulated @ American Refinery in Bradford Pennsylvania is Brad Penn oil with different additive package and indeed a good move.

Allison Castrol Transynd 295 is about the best trans fluid going for performance or towing except for the newer Transynd.

Cenpeco and Shaeffers are not that well accepted to this point.

 

Thanks for your input Mark! And yes you are 100% correct! I'm friends with Lake Speed, Jr and filled me on the whole deal with Brad Penn. Stupid move on DA-Lubricant's part as the old Brad Penn was an excellent oil but I can understand the move from a business standpoint as most lubricant manufacturer's view racing oil as a liability which is why RelaDyne (PPC) dropped the DRF line as they only wanted the Drydene Heavy Duty Diesel Oil (HDEO) which commands the largest market share and margins for engine oils.

As far as the Castrol Transynd 295, that would be my second choice however the results we are seeing with the Caterpillar TO-4 10 weight are even better.

As far as Schaeffer's presence in the drag racing community, I couldn't agree more but we are working on that with some great testimonies on YouTube regarding our products. I'm came from the dirt side of racing having been involved with numerous teams in the World of Outlaws Late Model Series and the Lucas Oil Late Model Series and although I did a little drag racing when I was younger, I kind have gotten away from it until recently when we got involved with some Pro Mod teams.

Thank you for your input! This is exactly the feedback I am looking for!

 

Always interested in reading info on oil and the oil market.

 

 

Brian I have been in involved in the lubrication field for 25 years and I have never seen the changes and consolidations that we are currently seeing in the industry. I don't get involved in politics, unless the customer brings it up and then it's fair game, but if we don't change course, we better start learning to speak Chinese! Lol

 

I had a talk with a young tech at a local dealership recently that had worked with Southwest Research Institute as a tech running oil tests for customers getting there wanted / required specific oil ratings, he said that during testing there was lots of times the oil failed its required testing in the specfic way/ order it was to be tested so management had them change the order of the testing til they past the certification test [Big paying money customers from China]. After a year he caught onto what they were doing and left.

 

Frustrating times for sure. Got wonder if the performance car industry is somehow being targeted...

The company I worked - non automotive - for for 38 yrs,American owned, was recently sold to a foreign investment group,so maybe it has nothing to do cars/racing/performance, maybe just money.

 

I think it is called.....electric vehicles are coming.....& the oil companies are getting their ducks in a row.

 

My oil thoughts
You get what you pay for. If your motor runs fine on Wal mart house brand it means you are not stressing the oil very much not that it is a quality oil.

Use an oil that is designed for what you are doing. Karting oil in a kart, diesel oil in a diesel, etc…

Pick the oil weight based on oil temperature .
I
Base your bearing clearance on shaft diameter .

Once you choose an oil stick with it. I have seen issues and I believe them to be from oils not blending with other brands.

Dyno testing oil is of little value, Oil temp ,contaminants , testing different weights etc…. Hard to get accurate data.

Wear at the end of a life cycle of an engine is the best indicator.

 

My oil thoughts
You get what you pay for. If your motor runs fine on Wal mart house brand it means you are not stressing the oil very much not that it is a quality oil.

Use an oil that is designed for what you are doing. Karting oil in a kart, diesel oil in a diesel, etc…

Pick the oil weight based on oil temperature .
I
Base your bearing clearance on shaft diameter .

Once you choose an oil stick with it. I have seen issues and I believe them to be from oils not blending with other brands.

Dyno testing oil is of little value, Oil temp ,contaminants , testing different weights etc…. Hard to get accurate data.

Wear at the end of a life cycle of an engine is the best indicator.

I agree with the oil weight based on oil temperature. I can't believe how guys with high HP cars don't automatically have an oil temp gauge.

I will say that bearing clearance is dependent on journal diameter but should be increased from "standard" if the car has a power adder. The worst rod bearings I've ever pulled out of my engine were the ones I set up with .002"-.0025" and coated. All other times I've used uncoated bearings with .003"-.0035" (SBF) that has 2.249"/2.123" (main/rod) journal diameters.

 

Sooo.... what oils are STILL owned and MANUFACTURED in the USA?

 

Mobil is part of Exxon and Havoline is part of Chevron, both US based companies. I know that Chevron has a US base oil plant, and I'm sure that Exxon does as well.

However, both are global companies. So, take it for what it is.

 

I'm not opposed to company's changing there formulation if it's in the name of development progress, but not for the sake of making it cheaper.

 

I'm also not opposed to paying a little more for a quality oil, especially when you have a fair investment in your engine.
I really don't understand people that invest $$$$' s into a engine, then make the choice of oil they use based on price.

I heard many times " I've been using this for years with zero issues ", but without comparative data from oil analysis who really knows.
I suppose that's also the case with the oil I choose to use even though I consider it better than cheap oil.

 

Have run both Shaeffer's and VR1 for the last 2 years. Have a few black particles in the oil filters and in the bottom of the oil pans. Assuming it's a little moly settling out of the Shaeffers, it's not really a solid and can't feel anything rubbing it between 2 fingers. Not a complaint, just an observation. Have had zero issues with either oil, methanol fuel 180-195 degees water temp.
Have tried the Transynd oil and was suprised to see 15 to 20 degrees warmer trans temps in round-robin situations. Best I've found is any tractor type hydraulic oil, best being Kendall 052. $80/5 gl. Reason for more trans temp on the Transynd I feel maybe less viscosity and we slip the convertor a bit more than what is considered normal.

 

Samples I had run in 2019 - Royal Purple XPR, Redline Racing and Driven XP3. Lots of good information in that whole post.

Royal Purple XPR vs LAT

I know there are a thousand oil threads out there but I’m having trouble finding much info on LAT and specifically comparing it to Royal Purple XPR. Any info is appreciated.

www.yellowbullet.com

Jason G.

 

After my last post I went out and found the used "tight" coated bearings (I keep old bearings). In the first picture you can see the highly loaded upper rod and lower main bearings look bad, it appears the babbitt coating is worn thru. In the second picture you can see the bearings I ran with looser clearances.

 

3. DA-Lubricants decision to move production of Penn Grade (Brad Penn) out of Pennsylvania to the Midwest?

4. Driven's decision to move to the old Brad Penn plant to produce their new GP line? Brilliant move in my opinion!

So, what does this accomplish and what's the outcome of the change on the final product?

I strictly use Brad Penn "The Green Oil" in a 10-30/40 weight in our methanol injected BBC. I ask my machinist about using Schaeffer's since my friend/fuel dealer started selling Schaeffer's. My machinist said not and to stay with BRAD PENN.

 

the current brad penn is not anywhere close to the same as the old brad penn
the GP1 stuff is very very good oil, we use it a lot
I also am a big believer in the BadAss/HPL oils
we have used and sold GP1 and BadAss exclusively for 3-4 years
Through the prostock stuff, i got to know David at the place they make the oil

 

Driven representative at PRI this year confirmed the GP1 is the old Brad Penn oil. They did make an additive package change to what he said is a more current one they are using in their other product that is superior. to the 20 year old package Brad Penn was using. It is entirely formulated and packaged at Bradford Pennsylvania's American Refinery.

Only bad side effect is the price is higher and less places to get it wholesale. Jegs does sell it retail by the bottle or case, but no discount by case. And then there is the minimum purchase needed to get free shipping. Summit has a lower minimum. The warehouse I used to get Brad Penn does not handle Driven.

 

Is the Driven GP1 now Green?

 

A couple years ago, a local well known TAFC and Pro Mod team switched from one of the top oils to the green oil and saw a remarkable difference during rounds. When he first tried it, he was hesitant, but based on what he saw he called the local distributor and said get me 5 drums of that green oil.

 

SBC version of a bearing manufactures bad idea.....

 

Not plastic gage.

I'm proficient enough at measuring to know the grinder should have trued up their their grinding wheel before grinding some of the rod journals on the crank in my original engine.

 

The first set of bearings with coating look to have excessive abrasive wear from fine grind particles
They look prematurely worn to copper

What oil filter was used on this engine?

 

The first set of bearings with coating look to have excessive abrasive wear from fine grind particles
They look prematurely worn to copper

What oil filter was used on this engine?

The same System 1 oil filter I've used for over 10 years. I do seem to remember the original filter came with a 45(?) micron element and later I changed it to a 30micron filter. Recently I bought a new System 1 cartridge and am now using a 35 micron filter element.

 

I have never had any oil related failures. Used Brad penn, rotella t6, amsoil and Schaefer’s

 

Don't diesel oils like Rotella have high TBN levels that are not good for race engines?

 

I ran Rotella 15w 40 T4 in my 500" sled pulling motors using a System 1. Never tightened the chain before the oil got to 175*, 210* at the end of the hook (usually) Always shot for 8200 at center track before the pan dropped. Every tear down the bearing looked new. Every now and then you might see a spot where a piece of trash came through but that was isolated. For the turbo buid I called JGR, gave them all my clearances and how it would be used, and they specked the oil. Gp-1 Blend 15w 40

 

If you buy Driven Racing Oil, you can use the code GBR10 at checkout on their site to save 10% unlimited order quantity. I just ordered enough to get me through 2023 season, and got a case for free with the discount.

 

The thread is back; sorry about the confusion.

Jeff

 

Glad its back, Hopefully we can get back to the oil discussion.

 

@Schaefferoilguy What is your opinion of double ester oils such as Motul 300v?