#4

 

4 or 5, likely wont need 5 but for 800-1000 on e85, i would consider a single electric or dual 450's

 

You'll need a drill to prime it initially, but once it's primed it's fine.

 

Thanks! Did you use waterman for this or is there someone else that does cable dive setups?

 

Electric pump. Keep it simple.
Going 1500 hp and up use a mechanical because your more track than street. Right now intended use is 90% street.
Edit- big electrics on the street scare the crap out of Prius owners

 

From what I've seen, electric pumps on E85 are not simple and or cheap. By the time you pay for a large enough single pump to feed 1000HP on E85, the pump itself is pretty expensive then add in the cost of a pump controller so that it's not burning itself up when the flow is lower and it'll be way north of a mechanical setup.

Going with 2 or more smaller pumps can bring the cost down but then just adds to the complexity (turning on the second pump at x PSI).

I understand it can be done but as I said, I got a great deal on the mechanical pump and will support anything this build will need with room for more on future builds.

 

I have an AEI belt drive mount for mine, to be used with option #3.

 

#3 for me

The belt pump is mounted to the motor plate and is fed by a 3g cell on the frame rail.
I have an aeromotive 15g cell feeding pump gas to a small set of injectors for putting around, and the belt pump feeds the 160's.

 

Cable drive and be done with it. I run twin Magnafuel 4303s, on continuously on the street and the second kicks in at a certain boost level. My car is mostly street, the 1st pump which was ran all the time lasted a little over 3yrs of abuse before it needed a rebuild. If I had known back then, I would have just gone cable drive. Don't get me wrong the setup I have works but with the cable drive you don't have to worry about a pump burning up.
I would do option 5 except use the small priming pump for street driving and disconnect the cable unless running at the track, now if your a spirited street driver then thats a different story lol

 

I am using option #3 on my mostly street driven twin turbo car, starts almost like stock and has easily pushed my car to 1200whp.

 

Very simple...
Aeromotive red pump mounted using truck ac bracket trimmed down
Rear mounted fyel cell under bed
Feed line is -12 to pump
I run a -4 from cell to my aeromtive regulator its wired to starter...this way only engages when using starter button...use a check valve after pump

You will need a drill to prime pump other then that no issues with it being this way

No wiring to fail no motors to worry about no loud sounds....want more flow change pulley config...must use the donkey dick aeromotive regulator to control the volume of flow

I use billet atmozier injectors and cold starts like a champ..video is on you tube in 25* weather...stock 411 pcm



Gz motorsports mandrell on ATI pulley

 

Very simple...
Aeromotive red pump mounted using truck ac bracket trimmed down
Rear mounted fyel cell under bed
Feed line is -12 to pump
I run a -4 from cell to my aeromtive regulator its wired to starter...this way only engages when using starter button...use a check valve after pump

You will need a drill to prime pump other then that no issues with it being this way

No wiring to fail no motors to worry about no loud sounds....want more flow change pulley config...must use the donkey dick aeromotive regulator to control the volume of flow

I use billet atmozier injectors and cold starts like a champ..video is on you tube in 25* weather...stock 411 pcm




Gz motorsports mandrell on ATI pulley

Did you run a wire to the starter solenoid for the electric pump to prime only?

 

What about if you still have the serpentine accessory setup?

 

Mine is made to work with a cogged hub and Y car accessory spacing. You have to use a remote electric water pump with it though.

 

The aftermarket SFI balancers typically have a 3-bolt pattern on the hub, the ATI uses a BBC pattern.
You are S.O.L if running a stock balancer....which I can't imagine using at this level of power/rpm.

 

why E85 ?

 

Cheap and powerful fuel:smt102:smt102

 

I have it wired to my starter relay so it only is powered when starter button is pushed....works very well this way

 

you can make that power on pump gas , and have better mileage .

How is E85 cheaper when it takes 30% more ? Unless you mean its cheaper than race gas .

Im not sure I would run it even if it was available . I know guys that have ran it and have switched back to pump and C16 .

C16 is the safest fuel you can run on high boost . Sure its expensive , but so are pistons . Going to the track is expensive any way you look at it .

My sbc makes about 850hp on 16 psi on pump gas , but when running 31 psi it will be on C16 !

 

E85 is usually more than 30% cheaper than 93 octane gasoline.. Which makes it cheaper, but that's just an extra benefit. The main reason to switch is to be able to have a street car than you can run around in cranked up 100% of the time.

 

Price of c16 out weighs the gains...

Fuel system to support e85 isnt all that bad...my belt drive pump is close to cost of a 4303 magnafuel and ill can support more power
Buy 1 bottle of lucas ethonal treatment per i think 30 gallons...still cheaper then buying 93 or even thought of c16 and ive saw more hurt parts on c16 then ive saw on e85 but then again everyone has their opinions on things

But e85 is cheaper to buy and that whole 30% more fuel isnt always true

Another nice thing is i can drive to a station and buy it....c16 i would need drums or pals then have to dispose of all that....also 02 sensors dont care for alot of lead

 

To me, (and this is just me) E85 is the best go between happy medium fuel for a street strip car. Lots of guys with more talent than I have going crazy fast with Ethanol though. It's higher motor octane than pump gas, its stoich is richer so it has more mass to soak up more heat, it's oxygenated, it's readily available in many areas as already mentioned.
Do I trust it as far as C16? Not on its best day. Do I trust it more than 91-94 octane pump fuel? You better believe it.

 

I like e85 for a few main reasons. I have open downpipes at the front of the car and drive on the street a lot (get fumes in the car sometimes), and I hate the smell of non catted 93 octane. I have the fuel system for e85, got a decent deal on a 4303, low imp 120s with resistors, and a flex fuel sensor to help with slight variances. I don't have the most efficient turbos, so I have to put it on a lot of boost (not possible with 93) to make it fun. Since i street srive it often, and give it the business often, I need a fuel that's cheap and is very detonation resistant.

 

I make 30# highway pulls while pulling a 1500# 4x6 enclosed trailer. Feel free to confirm that with Hot Rod magazine or the guys from 1320Videos. Been 5.11@143 on pump E70 and made 1380+ whp on E70 with 67mm twins on 29# and 16degrees. I just pour a little unicorn dust (comes from grinding up their dried shit) in the corn juice, a side benefit is it'll make those 12-1800 Holley fuel pumps last 4 years, 300+passes and 20,000 miles. Or maybe we just know what the fuck we're doing.

 

I'll look that up, sounds bad ass!

 

I run a hex drive Aeromotive fuel pump.
It works great but at cranking speeds it won't make much fuel pressure and the engine can be hard to start. I added a cheap submersible electric pump and that puts pressure in the fuel rails and it starts up easy and then the mechanical pump takes over.