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Discussion starter · #22 ·
using a 500 electric pump with line pressure set at 26psi. regulator pressure is at 9. Using a 7 series MSD with a spark plug gap of .028
The carb is a AED set up with 171 square jets. Motor made 730hp /650 ft on 110 fuel prior to the conversion.
#12 line from pump to tank, #10 lines to regulator and #8 to carb bowls
 
My experience with alky carbs is you need to run a vacuum regulated regulator. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4307M/
That allows you to run 3ish# of pressure at idle and 9# @ WOT. In most cases 9# at idle will blow right thru the needle and seats because of the size needle and seat you have to run for the volume.
I bet on idle w/ 9# right now that you have a very hard time adjusting the float level.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Understand and that does make good sense. I am not having an issue with setting the floats, however that doesn't mean that the problem doesn't exist. $110 is a small investment in getting it right.

Ray
 
You can get pretty close on alky by reading the fuel line in the exhaust port/header as well. 9# is too much idle pressure. I don't see how you are getting any driveability at all with 9# of pressure. I like to see 3# at idle and 11-13 pound at WOT. You should be using a bypass regulator of some type. 13:1 compression will have a nice tuning window. Rich is way better than lean.
 
On Alky, I read the plugs by checking how much cad plating I burn off of the outer ring in one run. If I burn off about 3/4 around the rim, I'm tuned up pretty good. timing is by the mark on the ground strap. If it is at the bend, it is close. that is what works for me.
^^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

May I add, the type of methanol makes a difference too. I used the cheap machine parts washing kind and had all kinds of issues. It's dirty, and the engine needed 42* to light that shit.

I bought proper racing methanol, set the timing at 32* and it started making power. It is harder to read plugs with alky but the advice above is perfect. Read all the plugs.

You should have a bypassing fuel regulator such as this one:
http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-p...om/products-page/regulators/carbureted-regulators/13202-a2000-bypass-regulator/

I used a -10 line from the pump to the regulator, and a -12 from the regulator to the fuel cell, which was front mounted. The vacuum line connects to a port on the carb below the throttle plates or on the manifold.

I always check the floats with the engine running, it made a huge difference especially with alky. If I set them with only the pump running they would always be too low when the engine was running. I hope this helps. Good luck.
 
I have an AED carb, timing set at 32 from 34. I only have 3 passes o nit thus far. Suspension issues off the start are playing havoc on me. More power down low than I am used to. I typically run a 1.28 60' but have only been managing a 1.40+ due to severe tire shake.. (that's another story). Once I do get my head around that (hopefully this week after scaling the car and changing rear springs) I will be tuning to see what the motor likes. I run a NGK 8 with 13:1 compression. Small block 440 Moar engine. The AED carb was built per the dyno sheets I sent in. I am guessing I am in the neighborhood but with so little experience in alcohol thought I would reach out.

Thanks for your help

Ray


After a couple of years of guessing, i put my engine on the dyno and got the tune up correct. Using a EGT as a back up with my O2 sensor, i was reading 1225 /1250 EGT`s with 31 degrees of timing. After the dyno, 28 degrees of timing and 1350 EGT`s. This is where the car has run its best.

You will wear your engine out along with other parts and break shit by listening to everybody on how to tune for alcohol.
 
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