From what I understand, it doesn't do anything to drop temps. It only raises the boiling point to something like 260* so you're not going to boil over and spew coolant where standard stuff would.

Uninformed and undereducated consumers might take that as temps going down. I could see where the uninformed might automatically assume that since it's not boiling over anymore, it must not be as hot. Unfortunately, that's not the case.

Sort of like how people automatically assume that putting a restrictor in the system "slows the coolant down long enough to...". I'm more a believer of the fact that it's now able to "back up", filling the entire system and all the cracks and crevaces instead of just flowing right on through using the path of least resistance. Maybe I didn't explain it well but that's the jist of it

 

True

 

What's it's freezing point?

 

-40.

Dennis

 

Where does it state that Evans Coolant is approved for use in race cars by the NHRA?
If you want the best cooling use water.

 

They are a contingency sponsor. So that makes it legal to use.

 

does it cost more than water ?

 

 

I don't know anything about this product but I will sure look into it. Seems like a lot of people on here are happy with water and that's fine. Your not considering one major factor when using just water, RUST! You should at least run Water Wetter, Purple Ice or some other similar product if to do anything to at least control rust. As rust continues to build up on the inner surfaces the water then also becomes less effective on actually cooling the block. The radiator then get all coated and is less effective on dispersing heat for its cores. Then over time the flow can easily get restricted. The reason are obvious why NHRA or anyone would use antifreeze but using another product to control rust I feel is a must.

 

Water Wetter Does NOT prevent rust. I used it for the first time last year in a brand new setup and it came out rusty at the end of the year.

I'm trying Evans this year.

 

stuff has been on the market for at least 20 years and I never knew anyone that used it if for no other reason that straight water is cheaper and the nothing cools better.

 

Used it. years ago. Went back to water with Water Wetter. Now have a Chiseled Performance Water Intercooler. Launch at 90*, cross at 92*. Of course, drag race car pulled up, & towed back. And yes, you have to deal with adding 20# of ice needed on each run, cost $1.75 each. Keeping engine cool is now no problem, & the car can be hot lapped, if needed. Probably adds 50 HP vs. water temp at 180* on top end. No Radiator, no Fan, no WP...bilge pump. Net weight difference about + 10#.

 

Dat chits expensive about $46 a gallon.

 

I use regular water plus two bottles of Solder Seal Water Pump Lube & Anti-Rust. Turns the water into what looks like milk, but no rust issues!

Evans may or may not be flammable. One of them is. Water Wetter is another one out there.

 

The octal alcohol ( water wetter) adds surface adhesion to the block, heads and the radiator . I am looking for a corrosion inhibiter to add .

 

I use a couple bottles of Hyperlube. You can get it at Walmart and it's pretty cheap. I run it for pump lube and rust prevention. I think the reason that most racers don't see a great difference in coolant temp is that we run aluminum heads, some aluminum blocks and most run aluminum radiators. They are already pretty efficient at transferring heat. These products are all just surfactants that decrease surface tension of the water and they do what they are intended to do but sometimes the degree at which they can help is negligible under those conditions we put them in. Rusty cast iron heads and dirty brass radiators are a different animal many times. To say that nothing cools better than water alone isn't completely accurate, it depends on the parameters that the comparison is tested under.

 

again, NOTHING cools our engines better than straight water and I've used wetter water with cast iron heads and brass radiators since the 80s and it didn't reduce the engine temp 1 degree.

 

Did it need too?

 

I've always used it on my street/strip cars.
The higher boiling point helps prevent detonation, no boiling and displacing coolant for air.
I agree nothing cools better than water-under waters boiling point that is.

 

my street/strip car never ran anywhere near 212 degrees no mind my race cars that hits the water box at 130 degrees with straight water in their engines.

 

Depends on the set up. I'm very happy at 212

 

I use a product called "Race Cool" which can be purchased through Summit. This shit cools the engine. First i have ever tried that actually does work.

 

I've run evans for five years in three different BBC engine combos at the drag strip. One thing that I've noticed is my engine cools quicker between rounds with evans. Also, when I get it to the temp I want (usually 140), it tends to stay there longer than straight water. I like to be at a certain temp when hitting the water box, and this stuff works in my case. But I don't have any cooling issues. My stuff will actually drop temps while idling if it needs to by simply turning on both fans unless its above 90 degrees out. (Griffin modular system with dual spal fans, and I run E85)

 

I didn't realize they had a specific racing, non-glycol coolant just for racing in series' where glycol coolant isn't allowed.

Their TrackWater is what you want for the track, which is different than what they recommend for the street. Only the TrackWater is NHRA approved.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/products/trackwater/

vs

https://www.evanscoolant.com/products/high-performance-coolant/

 

Good to know.

It seems to be misleading on what can and cant be used.

 

Yep. It's basically what is in use already. Deionized water with a "water wetter" type product in it. So I assume it should be okay to use at any track since it's mostly water with a surfactant and rust inhibitor. It boils at 212*. I just wonder if it's any better than what's already in use.

 

The only issue is that you should get all of the old coolant out or it will give the trackwater a green tint which may be questionable to tech officials.

 

Deionized water is more aggressive to metals than tap water. Filtered water is less aggressive than ionized water. next to each other at Walmart, just different colored cap and printing on jug. Water Wetter will help both.

 

FWIW, When I road raced a 600cc Ninja I had to use water wetter and it worked. It lowered my on track temp ~5F but it would come back down in temp quicker than with Anti-freeze or straight water. I took my car to the track this weekend with water wetter in it for the first time and it didnt run any cooler, but it cooled back down much quicker, just like my race bike did.

 

Evans is good stuff, but I'm surprised it's being marketed for drag racing. Works great for rock crawlers, Enduro bikes, etc. It gets you a higher boiling point, that's it. And if you don't have a supply of the stuff, what are you going to top the system off with? Water.

 

I'm not. Lol. I'd have an extra bottle for that purpose. :smt102 not rocket science. Why would it need topping off? Where did it go? It didn't boil over if using standard Evans. You got leaks? Fix em. Duh.


And if you're using trackwater, it doesn't matter. It's mostly water anyway. Mix all the water you want.