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Datsun 280z Drivetrain

9K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  stony  
#1 ·
I'm building up a datsun 280z with a toyota 185 ci 2JZ. I'm going to be running a TH400 transmission behind this for starters. My current setup should make ~1200FWHP at full tilt. I may upgrade the turbo in the future to a GT5591 which would get me in the 1500+FWHP range. The target weight for this car is ~2500lbs with driver. The factory wheelbase is 90.7".

Anyway, I'm really struggling with making a decision on what rear suspension and drivetrain to put in this car. Part of me wants to stay with a factory like independent rear suspension and see how far I can take that. This will limit me to running a 28" diameter tire. I was thinking that I'd run a 28X11.5" MT slick if I do stay with IRS.

If I do go to a solid rear axle, I will do a 4 link setup. I would move the rear wheels back 1"-2" to lengthen the wheel base if I do 4 link it. The factory rear track width is 53". What would be a good rear end to go with that will handle my potential 1500hp in the future? What size tires would you guys recommend for this setup? I would like to stay away from wheelie bars. This is a short wheel base so I'd imagine I'd have to limit traction to accomplish this. I wouldn't mine running a 325/50-15 or smaller radial to accomplish this.

Just trying to figure all this out as this is my first buildup of this level.

Regards,
Justin
 
#3 ·
Here's a member here Stony's 240z project. I really like this design and would do something similar on my project if I decide to get away from IRS.

What determines "squat" with a 4 link setup? Could I limit squat and how much would be reasonable? I'd really like to run different fenders, but this would limit the amount of travel I have available. The last picture shows the rear fenders I'd like to run. Is that feasible with a 4 link setup?

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Justin
 
#5 ·
sounds like one hell of a project, i love that black car and the fenders.

seems like you will be putting down some serious power, so most likely the 4 link is the way to go.

however maybe you should consider swapping to a different IRS if you want to keep the handling aspect?

i recently did a corvette C4 IRS swap into the back of my bmw. so far its working out well. And i'm scheduled to take it to the track next weekend

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#6 ·
I currently have a Nissan 9.05" lsd diff and axles out of a 300zxtt. I can use this setup, but I'm really unsure how much power it will handle. It would be nice to be able to keep it IRS for handling, but realistically I am building a drag car that I drive around on the street. Solid axle is probably the way to go.

Justin
 
#7 ·
Usually, dragracers prefer the presence of "hit" or "separation" which occurs with a bit of rise...not squat...at the rear during launch. Unfortunately, this is very difficult to achieve with the geometry associated with an IRS. Not impossible, but very difficult.

So, you'd want 100%...or a tad more...of antisquat with a 4link adjustment. You'll find a spreadsheet at my site to help you with the setup.

Those sacrifices in handling...associated with a live axle...are very small and usually only detectable on a very rough road surface. One other matter: Rear wheel hop during braking is more common as you remove the squat. This is not a safety matter, as most of the braking is accomplished at the front, anyway, but is the reason why roadrace cars are usually set up with some squat.
 
#8 ·
Thank you for the information regarding squat. I will read through your site :) There is a ton of information there.

Can I stay with 4 X 4.5" bolt pattern?

What rear end assembly would you recommend for my power goals (1200-1500)?

Looks like RJ 4 link brackets would be really nice for this conversion.

Justin
 
#10 ·
Back from the dead. car is almost done... hoping to take for a trip down the track this summer. will let you know how the rear-end works out. First 2 are videos click the pic to start.





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