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Correct turbo for 370" LS?

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34K views 54 replies 17 participants last post by  mbreinin  
#1 ·
What turbo would work best for a 370" 6.0 based LS setup? Ported 243's, not sure if it willbe stock cam or go ahead and get a custom grind. Victor Jr EFI with elbow and 90mm TB.

Chris
 
#2 ·
Couple of quick questions for you!

Is this a dedicated drag car or will it see street use?

What transmission?

Are you building the kit yourself or utilizing parts from another company, and if so is it a T4 or T6 based kit?

Last...what are your goals for the car?

Looking forward to helping!

Reed
 
#4 ·
Hey Reed, this car will see street use. Weekends and sunny days some. Goal is to run some Ultra Street and Ultimate Street and maybe some local bracket stuff. I want to make good power and torque.

It will be T6 based in case I upgrade later to a bigger turbo. I will be building the kit my self.

Car will be equipped with a glide.

Chris
 
#5 ·
For the long run the S400SX-4 80mm unit will be hard to beat, and still be Ultimate Street legal. Expect it to do OK with a stock camshaft for the time being, but a cam would be on my "to do list"! The standard 177287 BorgWarner will have the 96mm turbine wheel and 1.32 turbine housing, with the right converter in the car it will be really nice on response and torque.

Ill send you a PM with some pricing from us on this unit, along with options.

HTH...
Reed
 
#7 ·
Borg Warner S480 is a great choice. I have one in my car, which has a 365 cube LQ4 based engine with 243s. If you have any questions, let me know. I sourced both my turbo, and the cam to match, from Lil' Johns Motorsports Solutions. Highly recommended.

I will say one thing, if I was ordering again, I would opt for the 92mm turbine wheel and 1.10 A/R housing. The 96-1.32 combo takes some work to spool.

Mike
 
#9 ·
I will say one thing, if I was ordering again, I would opt for the 92mm turbine wheel and 1.10 A/R housing. The 96-1.32 combo takes some work to spool.

Mike

The 96 mm turbine is the way to go, you'll see once you figure out how to get the tune right. NO way would i use a smaller wheel
 
#16 ·
Im pretty green with product specifics with turbos and model numbers and whatnot. Im just getting back onto a build I started last fall thats similar to this and was digging around one stuff a while back that had good things said about the 7675 ( typo earlier whoops) hence why I asked. This was for 4.8/5.3's though regarding good things said about the 7675 that is.
 
#17 ·
Im pretty green with product specifics with turbos and model numbers and whatnot. Im just getting back onto a build I started last fall thats similar to this and was digging around one stuff a while back that had good things said about the 7675 ( typo earlier whoops) hence why I asked. This was for 4.8/5.3's though regarding good things said about the 7675 that is.

It is a good power maker for the size, just do not get to carried away with it on a larger engine...the turbine wheel becomes a restriction really fast.

And if you have specific questions regarding anything turbo, PM me...or start a thread here in the turbo section and it will get some attention!

-Reed
 
#31 · (Edited)
My God I'd think 36-40 degrees of timing and 14.0-13.5 afr coming into boost was just fine. It is what it is. Chad since you're the boost building tuning guru now you think I should just say fuck it and let it rip with 50 degrees and 15.0 air fuel? Because that's about the only other way this tune could go in terms of aggressiveness in getting Mike's car to spool. His converter is way to tight point blank. I had no hand in that though.
 
#43 · (Edited)
It will go to the track as soon as I finish debugging the loss of sync/missing issues with MS that I have been trying to figure out for a month now. I am not sure if it will ever go to the dyno unless I absolutely need to strap it down for tuning purposes. The only dyno that is local to me is a mobile Mustang that has trouble with this car due to the wasted spark ignition system.

I am not a converter expert. However, and I am paraphrasing what John told me regarding his conversation with Lenny, basically Lenny said that if we wanted it to couple hard enough to load the engine for the power level specified, flash stall would not be as high as we wished. Apparently, this is due to the core itself, and the limited options you have with an 80E. I can get around 3400 flash. However, like I said before, I can anti-lag it up to wherever the boost controller is set on the footbrake in a matter of seconds. So, the only thing that is going to suffer is boost response on the street. And, since it will spin the tires on motor alone, I am not really in need of full boost at 3500 rpm. Plus, it brake boosts like a champ.

I also re-did the hot side recently with a 2.25 fully divided crossover setup and that greatly improved boost response.

In terms of a "proven 6.0/S480 combo," according to John, I am the only customer he has with a 4L80E. Everyone else has a Glide or a 400. So, the 80 is the factor that is not quite so proven.

Mike
 
#39 ·
Well this sounds like a perfect time for me to learn something.

So in your opinion if we were to order an 80e converter that we need to stall 3500 its gonna end up being terribly inefficient when we take it to the track?

While my statement was wrong, i still dont understand why a custom built converter would have trouble spooling a proven combo that is the 6.0\S480.
 
#40 ·
Two major variables will determine if you can have an efficient converter with an initial flash stall of 3500. How much power you want to make and what rpm you want to shift at. You can run low 5's with a 3500 stall if you turn the motor 8,000 rpm. Turn it 6500 and it will not couple effectively.

IMO there is no turbo car that needs 3500 rpm initial stall to be able to spool a turbo. 3000-3200 is plenty. The more rpm the engine is capable of, the looser the converter can be down low to help you spool.

As for the 4l80e vs the turbo trans. There are converters available that will spool quicker AND be more efficient when using a turbo trans than what is available for the 80e. With the 80e you have to give up some spool capability to be able for the converter to couple in many applications.
 
#44 ·
The problem is exactly what mbreinin mentioned in his post. The problem is the core we're forced to use to build an 80e converter. It's either 10" or 10.5. These cores can't couple the kind of power a turbo or blower car can make in the rpm range they make it in. Only way to have a reasonably efficient converter is to tighten it everywhere which makes it harder to spool. A blower car won't notice it as bad because they make more torque down low but a small block turbo car needs all the help it can get. When someone chooses to use an 80e with a turbo your starting off with one hand tied beyond your back. Special attention has to be made in the combo itself to make your life easier. The lower the shift rpm, the harder it will be to spool. The stock block guys trying to stay at 6500rpm or so will have a tough road. Once you get up to 7500 rpm range with something like an 80mm it's easier to make it work.
 
#45 ·
Thanks for the info gents. There is surely a ripe market for a good 4L80e small block turbo converter then, I bet thats one item that will sell well. Hmmm well this does make things trickier... I was all set to do a 4L80 myself and now im thinking I either have to reduce turbo size to something that spools faster, or go 400.... without OD heck I might as well just skip straight to the glide and be done with it
 
#47 ·
If fast spool is your objective, go with the 92mm turbine wheel and 1.10 A/R housing is you get the BW S480. The 80 is great. While it is large, heavy and you have limited converter options, it is strong and a joy with a stand alone controller. I leave it in 3 for the entire 1/4 mile. It makes focusing on the pass much easier. That is nice at speeds of 140-160 mph.

Mike
 
#48 ·
The car is for street so od is nice, but not nec, Im not going to put a lot of miles on it just drive to and from cruise, track etc. The 4L80 is nice also for the control aspect. Digital shift points so its a matter of pedal and wheel which i also really like.

I just dont want to have a sheer hound dog down low whilst putting around, my Dad needs to be able to drive this and hes old. Low boost for street, turn up the wick at the track.

Want it all? yes.... trying to limit the compromises is all. Anyways the 80 sure is a good choice and what im leaning towards but not for sure yet. Still chewing and I really dig this site for the concise, informative posts from you guys.