Some tracks have weak tech guys.

 

True!

 

Drag Racing Chassis | SFI Foundation

The below list includes Drag Race Chassis Spec documents which can be purchased from SFI for US$38.00 each or US48.00 each for Spec 2.3N.

sfifoundation.com

 

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What track did you see that, some tracks let a 7 second car run without any cage!!!



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Rules don’t apply to everyone. Tech guys sometimes “miss” major structural safety items. It’s all fun and games until you need it.

 

No matter how hard they tech or lack of tech, They safety of your car is in your hands. So build a cage and safety items that are worth your life. How ever much you think you are worth!

 

That's how much I think my life is worth .... Not what she thinks !!!

 

Some tracks lease out their operation to some other LLC to skirt the tech stuff. That is what Texas Motorplex in Ennis does on their street nights. They don't tech shit. You fill out the tech card, they pick it up in the staging lane and write a number on your car. That's it.

First time I went out there to race back in 2019 there was a 2JZ powered 4-door Lexus IS300 running low 8s at 160+. No cage, roll bar or harness bar. Just a regular seat belt. The guy wore a helmet and a jacket but was wearing shorts and tennis shoes. There were several other guys out there running 130+ and wearing shorts, sandals, t-shirts and no helmets. My home track use to be Thunder Valley in Noble, OK. They were actually pretty strict back in the late 2000s early 2010s. Convertible, 100mph or 13.99 = helmet required. Break speed or ET rules once... get a warning, twice and you were kicked out. Relocate a battery with no vented box or master disconnect on the rear of the vehicle... You wouldn't pass tech.

 

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It's getting much worse now with the easy to build twin set ups.
It's like in our day when guys threw N2O on a junk ass engine and went nuts,
only multiplied because they are so much more powerful than we ever were!!!


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This all makes sense. I get the whole “what’s your life worth” but if I can get away with adding some bars to make mine a ten point, and save thousands not doing a 25.5, I’ll take a risk of get away with it where I can. If things get out of control, then I’ll bite the bullet and do a 25.5 or 25.3.

 

John Wayne was right....No cure for stupid.

 

Tech where I'm from is little tires on the front, big tires on the back...

Would like to see an article, if there is one, about what all the different cages are, how many bars, what they look like and what they are rated/certified too. If anyone knows of one, post it up

 

Here's a good story.

SFI 25.3 Cert: Keeping up with Heavy Horsepower - Dragzine

Drag racers have had a good problem for the past few years - horsepower, and lots of it. That’s what it’s taken to get some of the heaviest door cars into to sub-7-second range. The advancing technologies in fuel injection systems, digital ignitions, and overall engine design have made...

www.dragzine.com

 

Don’t forget your head and neck restraint. A friend was running a 155 mph car and something locked up the rear wheels in the traps and the car did a 90 degree turn into the wall. He said he didn’t think he would be alive without the HANS device. I bought a NecksGen for my 135 mph car and now have a 150 mph car.

 

How fast is your car?

 

Right now it’s not but the plan is a 1500hp (on the high side) twin turbo set up with a stick shift behind it.

 

Once you're upside down sliding into the wall it's too late to ad any more bars.

 

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I have the neck restraint and a full F/C cage and I just dropped my car off today and it's getting the head surrounds.
The F/C cage helps keep you protected and the neck device helps keep you from breaking your neck,
but if you watch crash video tapes from inside the car, your head & neck are still moving a ton.

I'm too old & fragile, I want to limit the snapping as much as possible!!!


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Just my opinion (which is not gospel). If you have a 1500hp goal, and a car with a minimal cage in it, you’re better off selling the car you have and getting another one that already has the cage needed for the ET potential. Upgrading roll cages is not always as easy as adding a few bars, depending on which ones. Many times it involves removing the cage that’s already in the car, as welding access is impossible. You do you, but a 1500hp std trans car with an 8.50 cert cage is dicey. You’re talking a 180+mph car in the 1/4 easy at any normal drag race weight

 

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Exactly, I understand some guys love their car, I do to, but when I could afford to step up, I stepped up!!!

It's done, and done right, and let the other guy take the loss from building it!!!
1500 HP in a REAL racecar is 6 seconds, 200 MPH, and much much safer as mentioned!!!

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I get what you guys are saying, and completely agree. When I first started building this car, it had a 347 in it which made enough power to break 11’s but I had no cage in it. I was still trying to figure the car out. That motor blew up and I built a 393 and knew I was gonna need a cage so I finally put one in. I was young. Took me about 2 years, of breaking things and figuring things out before I even ran an 11 or needed that cage. Right now, all I’d have to do is add the hallo and the a pillar bars to make it a ten point. My thought process behind asking this question originally is, if I do the ten point, that’ll get me to run 8.50s safely. Once I figure out the tuning, get the car dialed in, work out all the bugs, get that first 8.3 pass and know I can make the car faster from there, then I’ll start to really consider doing the 25.5. I’m not a professional racer. I do it for fun. I’m building a motor for 1500hp but if all I want out of it because of time and money is 1000 or 1100 and never crack 7s, so be it. At least I saved a few thousand dollars and don’t look like a caged animal at stop and shop when I’m taking the car to go buy milk. I appreciate everyone’s answers.

 

You've got a fox, You can get a 25.5 hold and weld cage from Team Z for around 1000 bucks. It's already fitted and notched. Super easy to put in because the hardest part is the fitting and notching. If you can halfway decently weld or have a buddy that can you'll save thousands and not spend the same money over multiple times and increasing rates everytime.

I can tell you from personal experience going fast with not enough cage going to update a cage like an 8 point into something else is a major pain in the ass because it's already burned in so it makes welding the extra bars harder. You'll end up cutting it out and starting all over. Also when you go into the better cages like 10 points and 25.5 the diameter goes down to 1 5/8 vs the 1 3/4 in the 6 and 8 point kits.

10 point cage will make you legal to 8.50. Difference between a 25.5 7.50 cage and the 8 point will be there is a subframe built under the floor, funny car cage, and I can't remember but I believe you have to X the door bars.

1500 crank is different then 1500 wheel and a stick is going be extremely hard on a chassis let alone a unibody, you run the risk of tweeking the body even with a 8 point because your welded to 6x6 plates.

Stiffer the car the fast it'll be.

 

You've got a fox, You can get a 25.5 hold and weld cage from Team Z for around 1000 bucks. It's already fitted and notched. Super easy to put in because the hardest part is the fitting and notching. If you can halfway decently weld or have a buddy that can you'll save thousands and not spend the same money over multiple times and increasing rates everytime.

Lol are you high? Team z does not offer a 25.5 cage at all. Let alone one for around $1000. No body in this world offers an already notched and fitted 25.5 cage for anywhere near 1000 and if they do, I’m sure it’ll fit just as great as everyone’s On3 turbo kits do 😂😂

 

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I learned my lessons the hard way been on fire, been sideways, cut a front tire doing 170 etc etc.

I don't give a damn what I look like at the store or on the track, I learned it can end in an instant.
When I was only running 8.50's I got lined up with one of the 1st 5 second cars.
A MONSTER.
Well we take off, him like a bullet, me like a snail.
He blows up and goes up in flames.
Lucky he stayed straight and was so far ahead of me there was zero danger of any kind.

Just remember, it's not just you, it's the guy next to you also!!!
Just like Bruce Allen learned. The other guy was late as hell on the light and all hell broke loose!!!

Remember, I'm one of the idiots that run 9's with no cage and very very little safety gear!!!


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I've got a bud with a Mustang Cobra vert...non cert 8 point cage,7.50s @ 183mph. YIKES!

 

Fwiw, I just used Wild Rides race cars for an 8.50 pre notched cage. It was around $1200 in mild steel. Wild Rides has a bunch of mock-up cars at their shop, and when you order a cage kit, it is bent and notched, then tacked together in an actual car. The fit is incredible, as good or better than some of my other friends one off custom bent cages that were done by local guys. Fox body 25.5 pre notched on their web site is in the $32-3300 area, with no floor support system . Throw in having to do the under the floor stuff and it’s prob close to $5k for a pre notched complete 25.5 kit that’s actually worth buying. That’s providing you can weld it in yourself

 

They are one of the companies I emailed about the kit. It shows out of stock on their website so we’ll see what they say. I’ve heard nothing but good things about the fitment of their stuff.

 

I had mine in the time that was promised. 3weeks from order date. Gene is a nice guy to deal with and won’t leave you in the dark