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blow thru carb tuning question

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25K views 15 replies 3 participants last post by  maverick88tc  
#1 ·
ok my setup is a 73 meverick grabber ,mild 460 ,c6 suto, 3.00 gear, s475 turbo. to be more specific it is 8.5:1 compression, home ported d3ve heads with stock valves, edelbrock cheapo springs, edelbrock torker2 intake , .503 lift 276/286 adv. duration 114 lsa cam , .030 overbore 466, 2500 stall dacco converter with anti balloon plates, the carb is a carb shop 950 cfm i think it has 75 primary jets 90 secodaries , the front power valve restrictions are .057 and the power valve is a 6.5 the back one is blocked, tiny high speed air bleeds , and bigger idle air bleeds i dont have any drill bits here small enogh to measure them. i bought the carb used so i dont know what if anything has been changed on it i have only changed jet sizes .

here is the problems first it wont idle any leaner that mid 13's a/f without starting to stumble and die i dont know why it wont idle in the high 14's ?

secondly driving slow is pig rich when you are driving and let off the throttle it goes into the low 11's a/f , when you go 1/4 throttle driving it is still in the high 11's , then driving at 1/2 throttle it to 3/4 throttle it go's anywhere from 14's a/f up to as high as 16-17 and backfires lean .

thirdly at wide open throttle on 15 psi and pump gas it is staying in the high 13's a/f i would like it to be at least in the low 12's

i was going to try and block the high speed air bleeds someone told me that might richen it at WOT , also though about putting extensions on the bowl vents i have heard that can fix WOT also but i would really like to get it leaner at slow cruising but i am not sure what i need to do

any help would be greatly apreciated i am running 93 octane with 36 degree's of total timing pulling back to 15 degree's at 15psi boost

it has ran a best so far of 7.30 @100mph in the 1/8 mile with a 1.75 60 ft but it was slipping my old converter 30-40% hopefully that is fixed now
 
#2 ·
ok i just found something that might have had to do with my light throttle cruising pig richness the right front corner hsab and iab were switched so that should have been making it richer cruising and leaner at wot right ? as i stated before the hsab 's wer tiny and the iab's were big but that corner was switched what do you guys think?
 
#4 ·
Big carbs are hard to get fuel through! You will most likely have to up the front pvcr's to .080-.120's and put a high flow pv in. Vent tube extensions work wonders as well, really get more fuel to the motor! I also block the high speed air bleeds completely as well, they are put there to lean out the carb at high flow situations. Does the carb have annular boosters? If not that will also probably be needed.

I would suggest getting WOT right before trying to perfect the drivability. Once you figure out how to fuel it at WOT, then you can play with the math and lean out the main jetting and increase pvcr's to compensate.
 
#5 ·
i blocked off the high speed air bleeds at all 4 corners with 10-32 setscrews from lowes and when i started it it was so rich it wouldnt even idle i didnt even get to drive it so i put the tiny hsab's in it and it would idle good again but it still wouldnt let me lean it out more that mid 13's before stumbleing i am going to drive it tomorrow to see if switching the swapped right front corner air bleedes helped at all that makes since though because it fouls the 2 cylinders on that corner bad
 
#8 ·
The high speed bleeds are the middle ones, closest to the squirters. Those are the ones you blocked? The idle ones are outside edges. It makes no sense that blocking the high speed bleeds made it idle rich! Unless the throttle blades are opened so far it is pulling fuel from the boosters?

At idle the fuel should be coming primarily from the idle circuit and maybe a little from the front transfer circuit!
 
#11 ·
just drove it with the only thing changed being that i sewapped the mixed up air bleeds on the right front corner WOT went from 13.8 to being 13.1 a/f so we are going in the right direction light throttle went from the 11's to being 13's so that is alot better too but it still goes to 11's when you back off the throttle driving normal is that allways going to be there or what?
 
#12 ·
ok i blocked the hsab's again but this time only turnded them in as far as the factors ones went and that fixed the super rich wont run problem i had before from screwing them in too far . it got my wide open throttle air fuel down from mid thirteens to high 11's so i am good there now but for some reason it still richend it up anywhere above 1/4 throttle and up it went from being mid 11's to being high 10's at 1/4 throttle. it went from being in the 14's at 1/2 throttle to being high 12's now . so my question is how do i get my light throttle cruising to 1/2 throottle in the 14's a/f ? is that what drilling out the iab's will do HONK IF PARTS FALL OFF ? if so i will try that , it idles in the mid 13's with all the screws run out to 3/4 turn i am ok with that thanks guys
 
#13 ·
With the high speed bleeds blocked it has more pull on the fuel through the booster. What jetting and pvcr's are you at? Now that the WOT is close, I would drop main jet on the front and increase the pvcr size accordingly to keep the a/f right at WOT. Also, what is the jetting front to back? The goal is to have close to the same fuel flow from front to back. If the pvcr's get above .070 each, you need a high flow pv.

When 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle, you are pulling from the main, transfer and idle circuit. If you increase the idle air bleed size it will lean it some, but probably not a ton since the bulk of the fuel is coming from the boosters. It also depends on if the pv is open or closed at these throttle postions, as to if it is enriching. With it already idling in the 13's, I don't think I would messing with the bleeds if it was mine.
 
#14 ·
it has .057 pvcr's main jets are 75's and secondairies are 90's my power valve is a 6.5 and it has like 20 in of vacuum at idle so it shouldnt be open but maybe i should check that or put a new pv in it , i have been afraid to drop the main jets because it seems small to me anyway , can the secodairy jets affect cruise a/f with the secondaires not being opened at cruise? thanks for the quick response
 
#15 ·
The rears "should" not be moving any fuel unless: there is boost pressure in the bonnet, increasing fuel pressure and bowl pressure (with vent tube extensions).

You will have to do some math to figure the size changes. Go find an area of a circle calculator and figure the total size of each fuel path (both pvcr's and both jets) in the fronts. Do a google search for holley drill chart to get the accurate size of the jets. Once you figure your total area for all combined. Start reducing the main jet size in the calculators and adding larger pvcr's until the flows are the same. You will most likely be in the .080's - .090's in pvcr's and in the very low 70's to high 60's on the main jet from the way it sounds.

To make it easier, I would put a 70 or 68 main jet in and see if the car likes it in the problem areas. (DO NOT GO WOT) Once you find the spot you like for normal driving, figure the math for the size of the pvcr's.