my old 511 ran carillos with 2 stages
over a decade old and hundreds of passes,always came out like new
Strongest steel rod I ever saw

 

i put 200 passes on my GRP's , on my third set now, and they come out measurng like new, bearings look great, BUT then again im rarely over 7 or 7200 and pretty light piston. The manf should be able to tell you how many runs you can get on yours, what weight piston, Rpm. HP etc

 

Oliver steel rods here... love em!

 

X2 Love mine best rod I ever had period...

 

callies rods bought used out of a bracket 1/4 mile car now have been in my 580 with 15:1 for 4 years.

 

Thanks for your response, I will continue to use the carillo rods I have 2 sets so I will change the one that spun bearing.Do you think I am spinning the engine too fast?

 

Where you shift is really dependent on where your power band starts falling off. I shift at 7,200 typically with my 632 BBC and over 800 lift cam. Dyno showed power started falling off after 7,200. Try shifting at 7,200 or 7,400 and see what your et and mph does. I'll bet you don't need to spin it near that high, but your combo might like it.

 

What head,valves and cam do you have that will allow you to spin 8500?

 

sorry got side tracked. Would you believe 990 heads well ported, 2.25/1.88 on solid roller 711/715 lift,265/262 dur@50. These 540 were built by D&K Engineering for marine purposes the only thing we changed was the cam which was custom ground for a 454 powered toyota pickup. the engine would rev to 9000 if not limited.

 

It sure will, but it isn't making much power over 7000 with that setup.

 

Ya I've got a hydraulic cam 350 that will spin to 8500. Done it twice when the throttle stuck and I missed a shift

 

Both ways work well (IF) they are set up properly for your needs. Both will also fail also for the opposite reasons. I personally use OLIVER steel Billet rods. 598" 4.600 bore / 6.700 rod / 7200rpm. 1000hp squeezen 400hp... 0 rod problems with WSB bolts, always streached to spec. .0055-.0058. good luck

 

I think i heard it on here once..what would you rather hit your crank with a steel hammer or an alluminum hammer?

 

That is if you break one; aluminum rods break far more often than steel rods. My 565 makes 1000+ hp, and I spray 400+ with Oliver rods. No problems so far.

In big stroke engines aluminum rods (due to their weight) are more important than in smaller stroke engines..

 

When the top engine builders put together a purpose built nitrous engine, do they use aluminum or steel rods? Check with Sonny's, Buck, Fulton, etc. and see what the answer is.

 

Mike,

I agree with your statement, but 99% of all max effort race engines use aluminum rods. That being said, most racers don't need a max effort engine. Even for a guy spraying 4-500 hp don't "need" aluminum rods. For a Pro-mod guy with a 700+ in engine spraying 1000 hp, nuther story indeed.

 

If I told you guys how abusive I am on the GRP ALUMINUM RODS, you probably would not believe me, and you may ask WTF am I thinking!!! :smt081

I will continue to replace aluminum rods when needed.. I have the same standard crank in my engine for the last 3 years, still in one piece, NEVER had any bearing problems, or any other bottom end problems to speak of in 6 years, thousands of street miles, and hundreds of passes!

The engine in the Duster almost never gets sprayed with less then 600hp.. With the fogger we have a 36 in the first kit, 28 in the second, when it had a Wilson 2 stage plate, it had 110's in both hits...

I see a lot more bottom end issues with steel rods, mostly bearing related with the steel rod stuff.. Weigh a full effort 6.900 steel rod, compared to my aluminum.. :smt103:smt119 My aluminum rods weigh 668 GRAMS!!! That massive steel rod is trying to fly outta the engine at full song!! :smt100

The rods that are in the engine right now have 2 Drag Weeks on them, thousands of street miles, and a good bunch of passes, they always come out measuring perfect with a TIR on the big end of no more then .0003

 

If I told you guys how abusive I am on the GRP ALUMINUM RODS, you probably would not believe me, and you may ask WTF am I thinking!!! :smt081

I will continue to replace aluminum rods when needed.. I have the same standard crank in my engine for the last 3 years, still in one piece, NEVER had any bearing problems, or any other bottom end problems to speak of in 6 years, thousands of street miles, and hundreds of passes!

The engine in the Duster almost never gets sprayed with less then 600hp.. With the fogger we have a 36 in the first kit, 28 in the second, when it had a Wilson 2 stage plate, it had 110's in both hits...

I see a lot more bottom end issues with steel rods, mostly bearing related with the steel rod stuff.. Weigh a full effort 6.900 steel rod, compared to my aluminum.. :smt103:smt119 My aluminum rods weigh 668 GRAMS!!! That massive steel rod is trying to fly outta the engine at full song!! :smt100

The rods that are in the engine right now have 2 Drag Weeks on them, thousands of street miles, and a good bunch of passes, they always come out measuring perfect with a TIR on the big end of no more then .0003

Did they still measure good after after this years torture test? What criteria dictates you changing rods?

 

Hi Ed,

Just in the planning stages of a 4.5" stroke tall tall deck motor for next year and was wondering "billet steel crowers or Aluminum" rods?
I think we might start "rattling the tires" like you did.

 

I Vote Aluminum rod, for most all nitrous dedicated motors. Some combo's have a hard time getting a aluminum rod in there, but thats the best bet if you can. Alot less hammering on the rod & main bearings.


T-flow