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95 LT1 383 Stroker Camaro ProCharged D1X

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216 views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  FaintR35  
#1 ·
Long time Lurker, but new member here. I have a Customer that brought me a 1995 Camaro Lt1 stroked to a 383, it has a d1x ProCharger and up until we started working with it.. it was only making 545hp on 93 initially... With that said... We got it dialed in and fixed a bunch of discrepancies and picked up some very reasonable power... but we are now running into seems to be an issue with belts...

It started with he brought us the car and I noticed first the main drive was shredding... didn't think much of it as he said it was on the car for a bit, but I did notice it was fraying fairly bad, eventually later he throws this off... we get the car finished on the dyno and then head down for some track passes and first goes the procharger belt... No big deal get a new one and it goes again after 3 passes, get a green belt... it shred first pass, get another belt and its been hanging on the longest... now at first I was thinking it was a tension problem...slip problem... BUT we go to the track and the main drive belt flies off... get it replaced and then make 2 more passes... AGAIN the main drive is starting to shred... put it back on the dyno and make a pull the main drive shreds all the way down to 3 ribs and the procharger belt is starting to fray now... the drive assemblies are separate between the two.... Now i'm getting stumped so I get on the phone with ProCharger. They suggest that we need to check the crank and see if its walking, they also suggest that we may have a restriction forcing boost back through the procharger... this car has a 6" intercooler I built for him, and 3" piping for clearance issues, no real major bends in the tubing to be an actual restriction, and it has a Big Red Blow off Valve...

Image

Has anyone seen this or ran into something like this? I did not build this engine and this is a manual car and from my perspective it does happen when he revs to 7000+ or in between shifts... which it is a manual car so the crank theory does have me concerned, I just haven't been able to get it back on the rack yet to check. Any long time ProCharger guys care to give some input or advice or theories? I was a strict Turbo only guy, so these sort of concerns are totally different than i'm use to, but I built the gentleman's brother's 408 LS turbo Fbody and he asked me if I felt I could help him make the power he was shooting for... which hasn't been the issue since I sorted the initial problems... but now we can't make consistent track passes from the darn belt issues.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Having been down this path with high boost blown pushrod 5.0s.. hence i'm a turbo guy now :ROFLMAO:

check belt alignment.. as brackets flex, which of course leads to belts fraying and or ejecting themselves at rpm, ended up having to shim brackets .030" to get perfect alignment man made brackets aren't perfect...


check crankshaft endplay.. especially on a stick car.. had this issue on a stock long block stick coyote at 7k you'd kick the clutch at the track and bye bye belt the thrust was on the very loose side.. and would move the crank forward.. and off came the belt..

other thing i've seen.. some of the serpentine belt pulleys, the outside ridge of the pulley is only a few .005 above the center ribs, allowing the slightest misalignment to eject the belt..

make sure all the pulleys spin true.. have seen a lot of pulleys.. wobble.. a SLIGHT wobble at 1000rpm.. is Salma Hayek doing the Macarena @7k..

not the easiest thing to do.. but no blower belt on a turbo kit ;)
 
#3 ·
I appreciate the response. I checked physical alignment with a straight edge to each of the pullies, I haven't physically measured it with a more precise device as I just can't seem to get any tools where I need them in the Tight Fbody bay without pulling a bunch of things apart, yet. The clutch kick at 7k theory strongly adds up, because on the dyno I noticed the same thing started to happen... so aside from the other checks if it is the crankshaft endplay...

what in the world are the options here? I keep screaming go turbo, but he is wanting to hold off on spending anymore on the car. But if it comes down to it then I don't think he has much of a choice... I also don't really know longevity wise how long this engine will survive walking that much if is the case. I can confirm the main drive side on the main belt.. the pullies do wobble slightly, but the procharger side and harmonic balancer does not.... I told him all these issues would be alleviated with a turbo!
 
#4 ·
do you have a way to check crankshaft endplay?

magnetic dial indicator? and push the clutch and have someone see if the crank walks..

as for procharger saying restriction.. i doubt that..

and as for tight f body bay.. yeah.. installed a turbo kit on a buddies ws6.. best part was NOT fighting a blower belt :ROFLMAO:

joking aside..

check crankshaft end play..

dial indicator.. and push the clutch.. and see if it is moving..
 
#5 ·
I do, I have a magnetic dial indicator and I'll have one of my guys help me check crank endplay and report back. A little concerned what I may find though as the gut feeling isn't too good about it and I always hate breaking bad news to customers/clients.

I also scoffed slightly at the thought about the restriction with the procharger, but being a heavy turbo go I didn't want to discount any of the endless possibilities. It seems the longer I build and work with cars... I tend to find the most unusual things these days. Honestly, I could probably make thread dedicated to my weird findings for others amusement and woes.

I will update with findings and let you know. I appreciate the input for sure. Thank you for the insight!
 
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