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1970 Nova weight loss/winter upgrades

39K views 329 replies 16 participants last post by  18degsbcregal  
#1 ·
Started getting into our somewhat no prep oriented Nova this past weekend. Goals are-

1) -125lbs
2) +50hp N/A
3) + 1-1.5” of front suspension travel
4) get the 1+2 leave Transbrake in it
5) get the single 4500 carb off and dual 4150s on
6) Redo some wiring
7) Open up the ring gap a touch for more nitrous

Still has crash bars in the doors, steel fenders, grill, stock radiator support, etc…

Got the nose off of it last weekend and came up with a game plan. Going to a Rhodes core support/smaller radiator and fan. Should save 20lbs just there. We did some math, and think we can get 6-8lbs out of each front fender, trim up the firewall ends under the fenders for 5-10lbs, and a few other things that are pretty cheap for more weight removal.
 

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#2 ·
Swapping collectors and exhaust- the collectors on the left with the mufflers are 10lbs for the pair, the pipes/mufflers on the right are 25lbs w/o the collectors. I’m figuring we can save 20lbs in the exhaust. It’ll also allow us to takeout the 300lb G force trans crossmember and put a lightweight tubular straight one in.
 

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#3 ·
Started getting into our somewhat no prep oriented Nova this past weekend. Goals are-

1) -125lbs
2) +50hp N/A
3) + 1-1.5” of front suspension travel
4) get the 1+2 leave Transbrake in it
5) get the single 4500 carb off and dual 4150s on
6) Redo some wiring
7) Open up the ring gap a touch for more nitrous

Still has crash bars in the doors, steel fenders, grill, stock radiator support, etc…

Got the nose off of it last weekend and came up with a game plan. Going to a Rhodes core support/smaller radiator and fan. Should save 20lbs just there. We did some math, and think we can get 6-8lbs out of each front fender, trim up the firewall ends under the fenders for 5-10lbs, and a few other things that are pretty cheap for more weight removal.
What size is the dominator? Is it for sale?
 
#8 ·
Weighed the BUFFCO 4500 adapter and current Dominator carb, it’s 21lbs (with a speedtech nitrous plate and 2 solenoids). My FST 950cfm 4150 is 7.5lbs, so pretty sure the carb swap is gonna be a wash as far as weight goes. Figuring the two 4150s with a 2x4 plate kit will be around 22-25lbs with the linkage kit and extra hoses.
 
#9 ·
I know they say the Smith Racecraft front end is worth 150 pounds but I wonder if anyone has ever weighed the before and after. I was really close to going that route but in the end chose to keep the stock sub-frame. When I made the decision I blew apart the stock front sub-frame to blast and paint it and was shocked at how light it was. Aside from the subframe all the other parts weight the same such as brakes, A-arms, rack, etc. It's been a few years since I did that and maybe it did not seem too heavy as I was much younger...lol. I just don't see 150 pounds difference.
 
#10 ·
Yea, maybe it’s 150lbs from a totally stock subframe assembly with shocks/springs, steering box, stock control arms, etc…? Just the room it makes alone it makes is sweet, but it’s definitely a big job for us and a lot of $$$. I think at this point we can do 5 other smaller items, lose the same 150lbs, and do it for 1/2 the money. Not saying never, but definitely not this year
 
#13 ·
We have a ton of ballast in the back now, like 400lbs. So anything we save off of the front is worth double, as we can take it out of the back and keep the same bias. It’s at 46% on the nose now, I’d like to keep it close to that, seems to work every time at the airport at 46%. We’ve tried 48-50% and sometimes it goes down, sometimes it spins.
 
#20 ·
Ours is steel factory floors to the ladder bar crossmember, all aluminum floors from their back. It’s more than an 8.50 cage requirement, but less than 25.5. Cage is 80% mild steel, just the dash bar and through the firewall bars are moly. After hearing where some other guys land, we’re looking for 2600lbs no driver/no ballast
 
#25 ·
Got in touch with Andy at Smith Racecraft today. He told me all of the factory style suspension components that we already have are compatible with their frame. He also told me that unmodified factory frames are in the 110-120lb range, where theirs is about 60. So for us, we’d save around 50lbs of weight. Definitely may be an option at the end of this season. We’ll see how much time we have between this car and mine to get involved in it.
 
#29 ·
Pretty sure the steering box was behind the oem k member. The rack was done by the previous owner, along with the control arms.

We were slamming beers in the garage one night and I was looking at the car and noticed the RF tire was back pretty far in the wheel opening, and the LF was all the way at the front of it. Turns out there’s 2” of stagger built into the control arms. The wheelbase is 112” on one side and 110” on the other. We have 27” tall front tires on it, so between that, the stagger, and with this little motor that’s in it, it’s challenging to cut a good light. Definitely have to stage it pretty deep.