I use -4 single braid line with reusable fittings.
I think that's the best way to go.

 

X2, .... not sure on the pushloc, never used it

 

-4 braided brake line

 

Something like this is well worth the money.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-4-Steel...36-Inch-/171437171076?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ea73a184

 

Bingo!!

 

anplumbing.com has some premade -3an braided line with whatever type of ends you want. I think I got 1/8npt cuz that's the size of thread at the rear on my sbc block.
http://anplumbing.com

 

anplumbing.com has some premade -3an braided line with whatever type of ends you want. I think I got 1/8npt cuz that's the size of thread at the rear on my sbc block.
http://anplumbing.com

When you change from 1/8" to 1/4" line you will shit yourself when you see the pressure fluctuations the 1/8" line was damping and preventing from reaching the gauge. The oil pressure gauge will move with RPM like a tach needle. With a 1/8" line you won't see how much pressure your engine is losing when you are on the brakes hard.

 

dash 4 or dash six with crimped ends

this is not where you want to have any chance of a leak..
don't forget or loose sight of the fact that the pressure seen at the line has many more sharp fluctuations than any other pressure line on the car....
not a place to skimp or use one of the phoney push lock type...!!!!

 

PS - I am sure I'm not looking at it right, but it would seem, at first, that a larger line would be able to absorb fluctuations more than a smaller line would. Sort of like adding a small reservoir in-line. But a larger line will show more fluctuations? Can you help me understand better? Thanks for your input.

 

PS - I am sure I'm not looking at it right, but it would seem, at first, that a larger line would be able to absorb fluctuations more than a smaller line would. Sort of like adding a small reservoir in-line. But a larger line will show more fluctuations? Can you help me understand better? Thanks for your input.

To move the needle a small amount of oil must physically move at the gauge end of the line. A 1/8” line is smaller than the main jet in a large carb but the line is several feet long. Because of the high viscosity of motor oil the length of the line adds significant friction (keep in mind the viscosity remains higher in the relatively cool end of the line at the gauge) so a small diameter line has enough restriction to slow the gauge response.

You can judge how much the line is slowing gauge response by how long it takes the gauge to go to zero when you shut the engine off.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Braided-Stainless-AN-48-Inch-Brake-Line,32547.html

 

#4 braided here as well

 

post ! 13...

the dash 4 or dash 6 line will in fact show the changes faster than a small #2 or #3 line... because the drag surface and thickness of the oil does not move as fast..

seen many than used the small lines that the engine would make rod bearing noise and the gage still read "good'

 

this is not something to debate... you just must do it.....

 

I went back and reviewed the logs to get better data, not relying on memory. I was incorrect on the constant max pressure; it was 72/73, which was reached at 5000 rpm. The pressure drop begins at 6700 rpm and is down to 66 psi when I shift at 7000. On the 2 step @ 3500 it's 63 psi, once rpm drops to that after the run it's also 63. When I am on the brakes hard after the lights the oil pressure make no sharp change, only dropping slowly with engine rpm. It's a PG transmission and this is 1/8 mile. Thanks for your help!

 

AS SAID,
the small line will not move the fluid as quickly and could easily still read pressure when the engine has broken.

 

I think you're still back on the original question. I was asking Yeti his opinion on the pressure drop read by the electric sensor. He seems very helpful. He had a reply earlier that makes sense and helped point me in the direction to learn more about my question. You, on the other hand, have a high post count, which could be impressive at first glance, but judging from what I've seen on other posts you got it from replying with mostly smart ass answers, mixed in with a few actually helpful replies.

 

I used the pre-made -3 stainless braided brake line.

 

I use this also and I would also suggest you use steel AN fitting instead of aluminum.

 

put the electrical pickup as close to the pressure supply galley as you can..it will show spikes on the data recorder more accurately

putting the visual gage for you to look at on the larger line is what I was talking about.

 

Why not copper tubing?

 

The small diameter tubing they supply w/compression fitting type ends, is good for dd applications at best ... If you need to see small fluctuations and get a much more accurate/actual read for a performance app, then increase diameter.

I now use -4 after I lost some mains in a BBC yrs ago ... was using the small compression tubing and still showed great pressure while the journals were dancing in the bearings

 

Use -3 teflon lined hose works great and it's a smaller diameter line so it tucks in nicely.

 

This thread is intresting, and I agree with the larger -4an hose. I bought a steel braided kit but cannot find any type of fitting that will adapt from back of the gage to the -4an female fitting on the hose. The threads on back of gage is the 1/8 compression fitting threads. How do connect the 2? I cannot find any type of fitting that converts from 4an to 1/8 compression fitting style

 

Are you sure? All the Autometer adapters I find are 1/8 NPT to "xx", xx being metric, AN, etc. The adapter I have is 1/8 NPT to -4 AN.

 

just installed my new line, bought it from Summit. It's a Quickcar and came with the fittings to go right to the block and the Autometer gauge. i installed a T at the gauge and put a switch for an oil light in the T.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qcr-61-71036