Thinking methanol

 

Good question, I see the bottle of gasoline on top of the injector.

 

Methanol in the silver keg. Gas or methanol in the squirt bottle on the injector.

 

Methanol to shut the motor off. The container is pressurized with methanol inside. You'll notice a quick coupler behind the hat that is plumed in to the top fuel distribution block. When you shut the motor down you turn off the fuel pump, connect the methanol to the coupler, and purge all Nitro from the fuel system and cylinders before killing the motor.

.

 

Amazing how on a racing site, there are actual "racers" who can on a moments notice answer a technical question. This is yellowbullet at it's finest. At least we're not talking about sucking dick like the other fucktards.
Thanks for the answer redwhite.
Zim

 

They actually talked about this on NHRA TV during Indy, Gasoline is used to start TF and FC.

 

This. We would start the blown Pro Mod motor on the same gas we ran the generator on.

 

I worked on a Top Fuel Hydro one year and we used gasoline to start the engine all the time. Then it ran on alky till it got temp, then fuel...

 

If the engine shuts down on nitro you have to pull the plugs and clear the cylinders of the nitro before you try to fire it again.... or bad things can happen.

 

Shut ours down on Nitro all the time,just pull rear lines after warm up and let drain, roll it over a few times in the staging lanes and spin it once with the starter before firing.

 

The team that I was with, we would squirt gas into the injector, then we had a pressurized bottle like that with methanol. We would run it on methanol to check for leaks, and set the timing, etc. Then switch to nitro, double check the timing (as the nitro hits harder so it can effect it), then seat the clutch and shut it off. Why use the $16.00 a gallon nitro if the $3.00 gallon methanol will work.
Brian

 

The team that I was with, we would squirt gas into the injector, then we had a pressurized bottle like that with methanol. We would run it on methanol to check for leaks, and set the timing, etc. Then switch to nitro, double check the timing (as the nitro hits harder so it can effect it), then seat the clutch and shut it off. Why use the $16.00 a gallon nitro if the $3.00 gallon methanol will work.
Brian

I am guessing this is the reason for the throttle blip ?

 

I work with a guy who works on that car, they start it on Methanol and shut it down like a normal fuel motor no Methanol.

Edit: (we use Gas to start ours)

 

Most guys use methanol but some use gasoline, Austin Coil uses gas to start and grounds out one of the mags,He did it while as Forces crewchief and was doing on Tom Motrys Plastic Fantastic. his wife has been driving for Motry and Coil is a decent guy to talk to

 

There is a different procedure for pit warm up and getting ready for run start. Some steps get omitted or shortened. Hand crank over backwards to clear cyls, spin over till oil pressure rises, stop, squirt meth in injector hat and have meth in pressurized jug plugged into quick connect to hat injector port, spin over while squirting meth in injector hat, pull ground to mag/s, engine start, stay on meth till hitting on all cyls, (in pits warm up this is when the timing is checked and leaks are looked for) push fuel lever to flow nitro from pump that is now primed and keep pressurized meth jug connected till all cyls are lit on nitro, undo meth from port, quick check of fuel pressure from pump and oil pressure up.....pull into water box and watch/listen for chief to give ok for burnout. There is a few variations and time on meth or gas (their choice) from teams but basically that is how it goes. Some teams warm up to certain engine temp first.

 

One question,how does the engine keep from burning up with no coolant. Is there hardblock in the water cavity,or something else?

 

Nope, solid billet. Meth will keep it cool while running on it and the massive load of nitro and meth keeps it cool for a very short period then builds heat. Once heat builds it doesn't take long to get hot. That is why you don't see the old school burn down at staging any more.

 

11 herbs and spices

 

Back in the Stone Age the 392 blocks often had so many sleeves in them that they were filled completely with Roc-Bloc. Some were filled to start with. Only the heads had water in them. If you look close at old pictures you can see the water necks on the front of the heads.
The cast iron 426 blocks and heads were more durable but still cracked eventually. Again look at old pictures and you will see the water necks on the front of the heads. We filled the block/heads to the bottom of the water neck. You will note also a small hard line from the water neck to the front exhaust pipes. This was just brake line. It allowed the steam to bleed off. By the end of a run there was not much water left if any in the block. We used a quick drain on the water drain on the bottom of the block to drain the remaining water. That was the first thing closed when we got back to the pits.

The first gen of KB blocks and heads were water capable. Basically the same as cast iron. I don’t remember which came,First, solid blocks or solid heads. Both about the same time. While they got hot they cooled quickly too. Thermo dynamics comes in here. Today the get really hot. That’s why everyone wears gloves.
Even alcohol motors get really hot as they are putting out so much power compared to what we used to have.

 

Opened the "petcock" on the return road coming back to the pits, let it spew all the way back to the pits.

 

I could just own a old cackle pipe rack and just stare at it and idle it once in a while.

 

The old fuel cars sounded so much better at idle than the new ones.

They actually cackled & sounded more like a badass.