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I would 100% get a 5.0 and be done with it!!!!

Several guys have them available, I doubt you would have to worry about an inferior block!!!


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Like old cleveland or Windsor style, or coyote? The more I search the more it seems bbc and alot of nitrous is the cheapest way to hit my goals

 

I think he means 5.0 bore space.

 

Also stupid question was this the right place to post this? I couldn't find a big block or general engine building specific sub forum on here. And idk if the nitrous subforum is for fuel/nitrous systems only

 

1500hp see an engine builder.

 

Take any 632 out there & hit it with a 36/32 & be done with it.

 

What gen am I looking for? Like can I pick up a "insert gen here" bbc iron block off summit and reach my goals? Do I need a tall deck or will standard do? Or do I need like a brodix aluminum 5.0? Idc about weight im just lookin for the most affordable way to sustain my goal hp

 

For 1500 horsepower buy the blueprint 632 and hang a fogger on it from induction solutions. Easiest and most simple way to do it

 

Awesome! Thanks that was really easy to look up and find

 

To meet your goals will also depend on your budget. It was said to build a 5.0 BS block and ya, that's a great route to go but it will cost more to go that route. Like Darren said above, you can build a 632" using a Dart cast iron tall deck block and give it some juice and there you go.

 

Yea im deff going cast. Im going to use the blueprint 632 specs as a reference

 

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He asked BEST to start with. 5.0 is much much better than any of the 4.84 stuff.
Most of us have so many pieces & parts we're kind of stuck until the thing splits in 1/2!!

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He asked BEST to start with. 5.0 is much much better than any of the 4.84 stuff.
Most of us have so many pieces & parts we're kind of stuck until the thing splits in 1/2!!

I agree that a 5.0 block would be best BUT he did ask what was the most affordable and not what's the best... Pushing a 632 on a 4.84 iron block to 1500 HP wouldn't ever run the risk of splitting in half... Agree?

 

I missed that part.
Absolutely, my old Big M short deck better make way over 1500 and nothing special getting there.
Throw a used Big Chief on it, and 2 small stages and you're well over 1500.

 

You miss alot of shit on here. About 3/4 of your posts are fucking stupid.
I literally get immediately annoyed when i come across your username on here.
Not to mention the 19 fuckin exclamation marks you have to use for each reply.

 

Just out of curiosity what is the capability difference between the 2? and what would the rough price difference be between the 2 built to longblock?

 

The Big M 2 has a 10.4 option which makes a much better 632" in my book.


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I know nothing compared to most these other guys. BUT my Dart big M std deck 600ci with some old conventional heads is cranking out 1040hp without really beating on it, if I were you just starting from scratch I’d take the above advice and buy the 632 and add from there. My .02

 

Thanks for the advice guys, I cant seem to find a 10.4 deck block, would 10.2 get it done? And what gen? MkIV or gen V/VI?

 

Dart Big M tall deck.

 

Dart or Blueprint 632 are your two best options. Take the advice given above, you won't be sorry.

 

Dart cast iron 4.840" bore space block, billet main caps, 10.2" tall deck if car/headers will allow, 4.500" or 4.600 bore". Maybe.904" lifter bore option. Maybe 55 MM cam bore. Brodix Head Hunter 24 degree heads for simplicity. NOS. Check out Nyes Automotive in Muncie Indiana. $15K plus NOS

 

Dart big M 10.2. Lots of 632's out there like that. 1500 is not hard. I made a 615" motor,(4.625 crank). Heads will make hp. 600"+ will make 1100hp+ all day long with good heads NA then spray from there. Go on quality engine builder web sites and read what they build.

 

Summit lists 2 big M blocks, one is full water mk1v the other is more expensive and doest specify if its race ony or has water passages and i cant tell the difference why they are $500 apart.

 

I cant find the m2 on summit, I normally try to go through them because I got a fat line of credit there lol. Using the search filter for cast iron 10.2 deck i can find 2 options. For 3200 I can get a big M mkIV cast full water block, or for 3700 they list a big M cast block. Im having trouble telling the difference between them . Would a full water block be weaker? Maybe the more expensive block is dry and reinforced better? The big M sportsman was considerably cheaper but they only list 9.8 deck even though the description claims 10.2 is available

 

Fastandloud87, I'm looking at doing the same thing you are. 632 and nitrous is a no brainer as far as economy goes. Call Beal Racing Engines and ask about their 632 pump gas motor. I'm changing out a lot of the standard options with mine and they're giving me a very good price. The blueprint engines 632 only puts out 820hp. Which leaves you a 700hp shot of nitrous to make up the difference. That's not a simple direct port system and at that nitrous level you're looking at nitrous specific cam, ring gap, plugs, and softening the chambers. 1500hp on race gas is a lot easier, building 1500 on pump gas is another story. Which are you doing? Sorry if I missed it.

I'm planning on a 632 pump gas that will make north of 1k hp and then spray another 4-600 on it depending on what's needed. Progressive controller, fuel injected, separate fuel system for the N2O, etc. I'm upgrading the heads to Brodix BB3s and running a solid roller instead of hyd. I'm not sure what heads come with the BP632 or if you're going pump gas, but the heads may be Liberty. Not the best. Consult with an engine builder, whoever you like. They will SAVE you money. For $15k it pays to have someone else as a consultant.

 

Fastandloud87, I'm looking at doing the same thing you are. 632 and nitrous is a no brainer as far as economy goes. Call Beal Racing Engines and ask about their 632 pump gas motor. I'm changing out a lot of the standard options with mine and they're giving me a very good price. The blueprint engines 632 only puts out 820hp. Which leaves you a 700hp shot of nitrous to make up the difference. That's not a simple direct port system and at that nitrous level you're looking at nitrous specific cam, ring gap, plugs, and softening the chambers. 1500hp on race gas is a lot easier, building 1500 on pump gas is another story. Which are you doing? Sorry if I missed it.

I'm planning on a 632 pump gas that will make north of 1k hp and then spray another 4-600 on it depending on what's needed. Progressive controller, fuel injected, separate fuel system for the N2O, etc. I'm upgrading the heads to Brodix BB3s and running a solid roller instead of hyd. I'm not sure what heads come with the BP632 or if you're going pump gas, but the heads may be Liberty. Not the best. Consult with an engine builder, whoever you like. They will SAVE you money. For $15k it pays to have someone else as a consultant.

I'm not worried about pump gas, and im ok with using lots of spray. Im just looking to get enough power to hit my goals and not wear out or break the engine constantly in the process

 

I still need to find out if im gonna be able to fit that much engine in the truck and find a transmission to fit the bill aswell considering its a heavy vehicle and im sure that plays into trans capabilities. Its gonna take me a couple years to get both bought and assembled and in the truck but I like to have a plan. In the mean time I've been dumping money into building the rest of the truck.

 

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I'm building a spare engine out of all my left over stuff, in case something happens to the 5.0 engine.
It's a 565" with used Big Chiefs, dual dom's and 2 stages, 32 each.
I'm hoping for 1550-1600 HP total, 1100 HP plus 600 spray should get me there??

It should be pretty low budget.
The most expense part is sending the intake to Steve to have the dual stages maximized!!!


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I'm pretty sure this is close to were im headed but with a 632.

 

Steel vs ductile caps is probably the main reason, also check the deck height.

 

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I've had several 557-582" engines over the years and I just don't like them or the 632" on a 10.2 when spraying that much.
YES, I know there are a million of them the last 20 years, it's just my 2 cents!!!
That's why I'm converting my 582" with a single 32 stage to a 565" with 2 stages!!!

If starting from scratch and can't afford a 10.4 block, which would be hard to find used,
follow corcorans combo and find a decent 10.2 and build a 615" and spray the piss out of it with a much stronger, better designed piston!!!

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I'm trying to take it all in thank you guys for all the info. Can anyone tell me if the Dart 10.2 full water mkIV will suit my needs? Here is a copy paste of item description. I dont need full water for any reason its just the cheapest Dart 10.2 I can find

Brand:Dart
Manufacturer's Part Number:31213655
Part Type:Engines, Bare Blocks
Product Line:Dart Big M Mark IV Big Block Chevy Full Water Cast Iron Bare Blocks
Summit Racing Part Number:DRT-31213655

Main Journal Type:454 mains
Engine Block Style:Aftermarket
Deck Height (in):10.200 in.
Cylinder Bore as Shipped:4.590 in.
Cylinder Bore Diameter:4.600 in.
Maximum Bore Diameter:4.600 in.
Engine Block Material:Cast iron
Engine Block Weight (lbs):280 lbs.
Main Bolt Style:4-bolt
Main Caps Included:Yes
Main Cap Material:Billet steel
Main Cap Fasteners Included:Yes
Main Bearings Included:No
Rear Main Seal Style:2-piece
Finished Cylinder Bores:No
Raised Cam Location:Yes
Cam Bearings Included:Yes
Freeze Plugs Included:Yes
Quantity:Sold individually.
Description: Dart is committed to producing the best engine components available, including the Dart Big M Mark IV big block Chevy full water cast iron bare blocks--engineered for applications where water between the bores is a requirement. Siamese bore versions are also available for larger bore applications.

Features of the Dart Big M Mark IV big blocks include:

• Standard 9.800 in. and tall 10.200 in. deck heights available
• Standard 4.250 in. or 4.600 in. bore sizes
• MRK IV blocks use the 2-piece rear seal design, while Gen V and Gen VI blocks use a 1-piece seal and a different timing cover pattern
• 4-bolt main bearing caps in ductile iron have splayed outer bolts for extra strength
• True priority main oiling (lubricates the main bearings before the lifters)
• Mechanical fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts, and side and front motor mounts simplify installation in chassis
• Lifter valley bosses for OE style roller lifters and retainer; (Non-Siamese blocks only)

 

That will do it. ^^^

 

Awesome thank you. If I were to ever out grow my 1500hp goal will this full water block handle much more than that?

 

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Since it's not a rush job to finish, why settle for anything.
Start looking for a decent 10.2 block, and take your time.
You might even get lucky & find a 10.4 from a guy stepping up to a 5.0.
You would definitely want the raised cam, big lifter bore, and the billet caps.
Hopefully something still close to 4.500 is best, unless you are going straight to a Big Chief, then 4.600 max,
not some worn out 4.625!!!

If the heads you end up with aren't drilled for the valley, definitely get that done!!!


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