You should really use the correct pump washers. The T350 shims are too big (ID). If you need more than .095" on the back of the pump you should then shim from behind the hub and FWD drum. There are hardened shims for that location or thicker selective brass washers.


Hutch

 

Where could I find some different thickness selective brass washers for the FWD drum and behind the hub. I have too much input shaft endplay with a .117 washer on the backside of the pump. .045 endplay.

I would like to tighten it up like you said above by using thicker washers on the forward hub and drum. Thanks for any info.

 

Something to add, if you get too thick on the pump washer, the pump stator / fwd drum sealing ring will start to come out of the drum.

 

Sorry my post is a little confusing. I don't have selective washer at the bottom of the pump. It is just the turbo 350 .020 shim, so something is to tight. The forward drum is a 1 1/4" lower then the pump mounting surface like the manual says. I'm using the shims to see what I need for thickness and I don't know if there are selectives that thin?

Thanks, Eric

 

.060" is as thin as you will get. If you put the pump in with no shim , how much end play do you have? What have you done to make the front end play tight?


Hutch

 

.060" is as thin as you will get. If you put the pump in with no shim , how much end play do you have? What have you done to make the front end play tight?


Hutch

I'll have to pull it apart tomorrow to see whats going on. Could anything from the center support down cause this?

Thanks, Eric

 

Make sure that you have your drums down all the way. I have seen where the builder does not get all the clutch plates aligned and the drum or clutch hub is hanging up on one of the frictions. Also make sure that you have your bearings facing the correct way and also the trust washers are greased into their proper locations. All of this will effect your end play and will be catastrophic if not done properly. Vince

 

Thanks for the responces, pulled the forward and direct clutches out and reset them in and everything dropped into place this time.

Thanks,
Eric

 

They are available through the trans parts suppliers or you can use a torrington hardened washer under the standard brass thrust washer between the fwd drum and hub.


Hutch

 

Dragging this up from the past....TH350 torrington in the back, AXODE torrington on the clutch hub....I have .040 input endplay. Does this sound right? With the thinest foward endplay washer being .060 does that mean I need to remove .030 from the washer to get myself .010 clearance? Or is there a different method?

 

If you have .040 endplay you can replace your .060 washer with a .090 washer on the pump to give you .010 endplay.

 

the .040 endplay clearance is presently with no washer/shim included.....

 

Then you will have to machine the hub or drum to generate clearance.


Hutch

 

cheers....was hoping you'd say reducing the thickness of the plastic thrust washer would be fine.....

 

There is machining required to do a proper job on these transmissions.


Hutch

 

I understand, will do....did I read somewhere that using the AXODE torrington allows the input endplay to be tightened up? If so, what is acceptable?

 

Adding that bearing changes the way front endplay is established. Originally the direct drum did not even have to be in the trans to affect front endplay and the thrust load was placed on the #22 bearing. Now that you have placed a bearing on the hub, the load is placed on a combination of the #22 and #21 bearing and the front endplay is reduced. Your now having to compensate for the addition of the bearing and alteration of thrust surfaces which allows a tighter endplay with the same given pump washer in place.


Hutch

 

Just checking as I intend to machine a small amount off the hub and likewise the drum then install the .060 thrust washer and factor in the correct amount of clearance.....is .010 too loose?

 

.010 is fine and on the tight side.


Hutch

 

cheers