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Tube Bender?

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8.2K views 38 replies 18 participants last post by  blownstang01  
#1 ·
Has anyone ever used the Habor Freight Tube Bender below on cage tubes before? If so how did it work and how did you get the dies to fit?

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#3 ·
Ok, thanks. Looking for something to put in my garage thats not so big or so expensive. I know my buddy i ired of me asking him to use i shop after hours and plus I have to leave when he is ready to, even if I am done or just getting started good.
 
#5 ·
Sorry there are no GOOD tube benders that are really cheap. Your still going to spend 500-1000 bucks for a manual draw style. JD2 or Protools are good ones. If you can get away with one die its pretty reasonable.
 
#12 ·
Yeah thats a pipe kinker. Allthough I have heard of people using them with some degree of success by filling said tube with sand. Not sure exactly how they keep the sand in there. Sounds like a PITA to me. There are some plans for a homemade bender that uses ProTools dies floating around on the net. Check Pirate4x4.com for more info.
 
#14 ·
Type Pipe Bender
Pipe Thickness 8 Gauge Max.
Bends 1/2 to 3 in. thick round or square solid rods
Jack capacities 13-1/4" to 22-3/4in.
Bending Bars Can adjust from 8-1/2" to 23-1/8"
Stroke 9-1/2in.
Dies 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", and 3" pipe
W x D x H 30 x 7 x 23-1/4in.
 
#15 ·
I bought a Mid American bender with 4 dies and a air over hydraulic pump for around a grand. It actually does a good job on all cage tubing. It is a verticle bender so it bends up rather than side to side and the dies are aluminum but it uses a follower not rollers and I've built 6 or 8 cages and one complete chassis with it. Can be a PITA at times doing verticle bends but well worth the money if you are a DIY guy not building for a living.
 
#17 ·
I used one to build a cage. I had to duct tape one end really good, and put moist sand in the other end. After 2 hand fulls of sand I packed it in with a solid 1 inch bar then repeat until it was full. After it was full I duct taped the end close... It bent pretty good. You just have to make sure you start with the slide wheels all the way out until the the ram runs out, and then move them in to the next hole other wise they will kink the top side of the tube. I figured it out by throwing out alot of tubing... It's alot of work, but if you're poor like me it works.
 
#19 ·
Not sure if there was a thread on YB or another site that showed how a guy made "inserts" for dies out of bent tubing cut in half length-wise to bend smaller tubing. He was able to eliminate a few die sizes this way.
 
#29 ·
usa american standard of tubing and pipe diameter sizes actual dimensions are different.

also, as considered, pipe is commonly not the same strength material as tubing...

this is why in the usa,
the dies are classified as being different for each material.


a 1 1/2 pipe die is not the same as a 1 1/2 tube die....

..... ."pipe" ...or "waterpipe"... is oftentimes classified / referred to as being measired by the INSIDE DIAMETER...

..tubing is the basic "outside diameter".

there is NO absolute correct or accurate "conversion" for the metric sizes that you have over there in france..

we have had to make our own dies to bend 30 or 32 mm tubing since nothing in a usa /sae standard is available for what I wanted to bend...


in above post # 28,

what exactly ddimension do you ask..
what is the bend RADIUS ...."curve" or "arc"....??
or are you asking what is the channel dimension that the material actually fits into when the die bends the material...??

most bending machine makers can make dies to fit whatever material you are wanting to bend...
it is only a matter of relaying the proper dimensioning and mannor of measuring.

some of the more difficult bending shapes or diameters,....actually you should send a sample of the material to the bend die maker for them to test...
 
#32 ·
Ok,ok. I understand better.
Here we use only OD, even if it's pipe or tube. Then the difference it's only the quality of.
For exemple the tube I buy to do chassis must be more than 350 N/mm2 ( Tensile strenght) to keep the french FFSA rules.

Then I don't found the same OD like you, exemple :

For the 1 inch 5/8 ( 41.13 mm) i will use tube of 42.4 mm ( 1" 1/4 )

This because I have the right dies with my mingori bender

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#34 · (Edited)
In fact, I'm interested only about these dies, if somebody can tell me which size they are (OD of course ! ) When I see the pric at summit, it's like they give free ! :)
 
#35 ·
but FOR A CHASSIS type of buildup..
when you use THOSE types of "center force bend" dies and apparatius...
the stiffer and thin wall tubing will KINK and not stay to a round form shape...

the types bender styles you have posted are usually for crude / rough PIPE such as horse corrals / cow pens...rough waterpipe material...
the round outside rollers are just too coarse or able to FORM a tube being bent with any conformability...


take a look at the detailed photyos of a "JD squared" ..."mittler"...or any other of the many brands made that are based off of the "original Hosfield bender" of forty years ago........
 
#38 ·
I'm pipefitter & welder from all my life. I doing this work everyday.
Here, in France we don't found nowhere sellers of CM tube. If I want CM, I must order UK or USA.

All chassis & roll cage I build are anyway MS with 3.2 mm thin.
The tube I use is S/S ( without welding) NF EN 10216-1 P235 with test report and rejeted to bending it with center force.

Exemple :

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CM is like stainless stell ( thin) if you want bending it with my type of bender, I know very well that I must put full tube with sand, and close both side.


But I'm here only to ask if somebody can tell me the OD of the dies...:D
 
#37 ·
justin / kill.....
for most of post # 30.....


in places other than the U.S.A....

there is no conformability standard as the same as what you are used to HERE.....

tube / pipe...is all the same refrence.. the difference is in the stated thickness and wall shape and material....
surface finish...
 
#39 ·
I'll probably get slammed for this from the Chassis Builders.....BUT, if you are only going to do occasional work what I have works perfect and they are cheap. Cheaper than any I have found. It will only bend 90 degrees, but that has been fine for me. Several roll cages, bumpers, core supports etc later and mine still works 100%. They are like $299 with one die, and additional dies are $150. Well worth it IMO. I've only used mine for Moly with no issues.
http://www.tjdieselperformance.com/servlet/StoreFront