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The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

3.4K views 82 replies 32 participants last post by  Topfun99  
#1 · (Edited)
2025 so far has had it all for me so far.

The Good:
In February I won the Sick Week Street Race 275 class and set a new record. In June I won both Rock Mountain Mega Week Street Race and Big Sky Race Week Pro Street classes and also set a record at both of those races. Drag Drive Repeat compiles points from all cars competing in all eligible Drag and Drive events and gives extra points for setting a new record. When computing their "champions" for the year they use only the results from the best 3 events for each competitor so by setting a record at all three of those races I actually maximized the points possible for an 8.50 car for this year.

I was planning to attend Hot Rod Drag Week and was scheduled to get both hips replaced July 24th but the Surgeons office had overbooked him and they rescheduled the surgery for August 7th, 2 weeks later. I had calculated the July date would give me 8 weeks to recover from the surgery and I would be able to attend Drag Week but wasn't sure if 6 weeks would be enough for me to physically get in/out of the car and endure the long drives. As it turned out by working hard on the rehab exercises daily (going to the gym plus home exercises) I was doing well enough to attend Drag Week though physically I was still dealing with the recovery.

The first 2 days of Drag Week went well, I ran 8.507 and 8.504 and was a very close second behind Rick Steinke (Honk If Parts Fall Off) who had posted an 8.506 and 8.502 those 2 days so we were neck and neck with 3 days to go.

The Bad:
On the first pass of the third day at Maple Grove the car lost power just after the 1000 ft mark. After slowing it shut down and stopped running and I was barely able to clear the track. I wasn't able to restart it and had to have someone tow me back to my pit area with a strap. Judging by the engine sound when trying to start it I figured I had hurt a head gasket which meant Drag Week was over for me. Back in the pits I called a local car rental agency and rented a car so I could get my truck/trailer back at Maryland International Raceway. Turned out there were 2 other racers there that needed to get back there also so my co-pilot, I and those 2 racers all drove the 4 hours back together to get our tow vehicles.

The next morning when my co-pilot and I got back to Maple Grove we had another problem left to solve. I don't have a working winch on my trailer so we had to figure out how to get my 3600lb car up on the trailer. As luck would have it, the staging lanes have a hill at their entrance and we were parked just a few hundred feet from there. We flat towed the car up the hill, turned it around and parked the trailer with ramps ready at the bottom. I steered the car down the hill aiming for the ramps and judging the speed needed to get up all the way on the trailer. Not something I've ever done before but hey, if it were easy children would be doing this right? Hit the ramps dead center and up on the trailer the car went. Stopped It only 12" short, a little push forward by my co-pilot and a track worker who was there in case we needed more help and the car was ready to be tied down and towed. Unfortunately, my co-pilot lives in Ohio so I had to make the 19 hour drive home by myself. I did arrive safely Friday afternoon around 2pm, almost exactly 2 days after the engine quit. Then to get the car back in my garage, I have to roll it off the trailer and, since I have an uphill driveway, get 4 guys from across the street to help push it up into the garage.

The Ugly:
Saturday morning I started removing the engine. To remove the engine, I take both it and the transmission out together so it's quite a task. No lift so 7 weeks after having both hips replaced I had to put the car up on jack stands, then crawl around on my back GI Joe style underneath the car to drain all the fluids (engine, tranny, Gear Vendor's OD), remove the full exhaust, driveshaft, disconnect all wiring and unbolt a handful of other items before I could get on top and take things apart there that needed to be removed. It was a physically challenging but yesterday (Sunday) afternoon I finally got the engine out with my picker. Separated the transmission from the engine and put the engine on the engine stand. That's when I saw the real UGLY - a hole in the oil pan. Not big but it was there and I knew it wasn't just a head gasket. On the other side of the oil pan was a bulge and the spark plug from #7 cylinder came out damaged.

That's as far as I got yesterday and boy was I tired. One thing about major surgery is your whole body has to recover and at 71, those 2 days of work were tough. But honestly, I feel fortunate that I was physically able to get the work done. Not being able to get things done like this would bother me more than all of the "fun" I've had over the last 5 days.
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#41 ·
Correction on the HP numbers from the Wallace Calculator. Someone on FB pointed out that those are supposed to be flywheel HP numbers which is indeed what the page with the formulas states. This is interesting because the specific transmission and rear end types would affect the flywheel vs rear wheel HP and they have nothing to adjust for that.
 
#47 ·
Just think out loud ,, the bottom of the piston looks pretty beat up. Was that rod in theee pieces?
I thought maybe the valve caused it but with the recent pics, I'd believe anything now!
The crank is still spinning if the rod broke near the pin until it won't!
Best of luck moving forward and hope the body rebuild is doing well!
Take care
 
#51 ·
Almost every broken rod I've seen did so because of a lack of crank pin lubrication...rod seizes the crank, gets bent back and forth several times in a second and breaks from metal fatigue, just like bending a piece of wire until it breaks.
Your big end obviously didn't seize the crank, your scenario makes sense. Right at the top of the exhaust stroke is the highest point of tension for a rod, I don't see how any of them survive for long.
 
#58 ·
In a high boost engine it's not unusual for the cylinder pressure to put a high compression load the rod during the power stroke. The rods break not from RPM but from compression load.

This is not the first rod failure I've had in one of my engines. The original engine built in 2008 had H-beam rods that were not as strong as these Oliver I-beam rods. In 2013 I found those rods bent after 728 runs. However, there were a lot of 10 and 9 second runs in that number because I was doing a lot of testing at lower boost levels the first few years. It wasn't until run 295 in 2009 that I actually made my first 8 second pass and starting in 2010 it ran 8s regularly. But there were a lot of 9 second runs mixed in with those 8 second runs.


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#56 ·
What detail are you looking for? I ask because with my jeweler's loop I can see the original fracture on some of the remaining small end. This is on the edge of the broken piece but only a small section of the fracture is still visible because the broken big end pummeled the small end of the rod left attached to the piston. But it's a clearly a fracture.
 
#61 ·
No but it did some severe damage to the bottom of the cylinders. As matter of fact, that cylinder looks like it could be honed to .010" over and would clean up. However, the missing bottom sections would have to be sleeve to be reused. I've already got a new block coming so this block will go to someone with less HP goals. The 3.40" stroke in a 8.2 deck SBF leaves very little space between the rod's big end and the bottom of the cylinders. The bottom of each cylinder has a small notch to clear the head of the rod bolt.

Also, all of the main and rod bearings, including that cylinder, look like they could be reused.
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#64 ·
Good on you for getting out and running the events you do , let alone getting right at tearing into it after breaking . And all that a couple months after hip surgury is no small feat ! After all the post mortem analyisis thats being done what I'm wondering is if your seeing any distress in the other rods ? I've seen buckled H beams like you posted out of a friends 393w turbo that was putting 1300 to wheels . Thats what I'd expect overloaded 4340 to do not fracture like it appears yours did . I know he replaced with I beams when he rebuilt it , maybe the H beam is not so bad for big turbo power ?
 
#69 ·
Yes, even though I have a belly pan under the oil pan, it doesn't take much oil to cause loss of control.

The other "lesson" is the engine had a Moroso windage tray which is a pretty hefty piece that acted as a "containment device". It deflected and contained all the shrapnel enough to only allow the oil pan to get a small hole on one side and a bulge on the other side. As a result no measurable amount of oil escaped from the oil pan itself.

It may have led to more total damage by letting these pieces stay near the reciprocating assembly, but probably prevented large pieces being thrown thru the oil pan and a possible bigger problem.

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#73 ·
I now see you have a new block on its way.👍👍
Thanks for posting your adventures. I have a close friend that is almost 80 and he drives a Trackhawk and a wide body Dodge Charger most days. And a 10.2 second Buick T-Type. All of his vehicles that he drives daily are crazy fast! But after 40 years of racing Turbo Buicks, he is ready to sell off all of his Buick stuff, now. (except his low 10 car).
 
#74 ·
And more of the UGLY!

I dug out all of the larger pieces from the pan. It's quite impressive how small the "big" pieces are. I also took a picture of the remaining debris in the pan which is mostly powered fragments, with a lot of pieces so small they could be called "metal dust". It's incredible that amount of damage that happened in 5-7 seconds it took for the engine to stop though I think not much was left to be damaged after the first few seconds.

The pieces at the very top are from the piston (including the 2 spiro-locks that got spit out), the rest is material from the rod and parts of the block.

The rest of the debris is mostly in the oil pan's front sump (picture #2) and rear sump (picture #3).

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#78 ·
I've used a lot of different brands but now I mostly use Mobil 1 because it's formulated to high mileage street driving. I've used some racing oil but after reading about them, I found they don't have the formulation to last an engine for 1000+ miles. They expect racers will use the oil for a race or 2 then change.