Mac valves need +12v on one wire and pinned to the control pin on the ecu, if using dual valves one is to raise pressure and one is to lower it. Just look at the ecu pinout a decide where you want to put it. If that doesn't makes sense, pull out the laptop and hit the drop down for that channel and see what options it gives you. It's all based on how you set it up, all of it just needs to match up and you will be good.

 

I understand that on the Mac valves but with 2 wires to 12v don't the other to need to go to pwm-. And having my SSR running off of a pwm- output I don't have two left so trying to figure out what to do. This is the pin layout I got offline. It's not powered up yet so I don't have that option. Trying to finish wiring everything first.

 

Dome pressure needs an input
Tbrake and bump buttons need an input
Boost solenoids need an output and SSR needs an output. Does that look correct?

 

The ecu doesn't need to be powered up, just look at the software, it should help simplify this for you.
Yes you are correct.

 

I have downloaded it it's just a lot to learn at once coming from a blow through setup before this. I'm just most confused on if I need to use certain output and input spots. From what I have read I thought there were only two pwm- outputs and from my understanding I need 3.

 

I know a few people running one solenoid pwm- and one pwm+ so they can use the pwm- for the SSR to have a bump function.

 

So would one solenoid be wired to power and the other ground?

 

This is my pin maps for the for INs and Outs. And this works - I've had this setup in the car for close to two years.

You have some issues in your diagram for the boost control. The Mac Valves are 'ground switched' OUTPUTS and the dome sensor is a 5V INPUT. I have my dome sensor running through the In/Out box (add on), but you have plenty of ins and outs to do what you want to do, but you're left without many spare ins and outs. That's the reason I bought the in/out box that allows for 8 additional ins and 8 additional outs.

Have you followed any of Devin Vanderhoof's videos? He lays this out pretty well. He also describes how to test each function (boost control and t-brake).


This appears pretty confusing at 1st, at least it was for me coming from the MegaSquirt world. But being able to stack ins and outs is unbelievable feature. Do yourself a favor and leave the access to the in/out plug in the open for easy access. Then do a bunch of testing before you tuck all of the wiring away. Of course this makes for a messy wiring setup (for a short time) until you're more confident in the tuning and wiring - leave it accessible so that you can change it as it goes.

Having a Master Enable input is EXTREMELY convenient, and I also have a Mac valve switch that enables the 12v+ to the Mac valves via an output to trigger the 12v+ mac valve relay. But you can do this with a manual switch as well. I can attach a pinout of my I/O box also if you'd like. The only item that I don't run through the Holley is my line lock, but I'm considering doing that as well so I can limit RPM's via a dwell cut table so that I can keep the rpm's below 6K when the line lock is enabled - presently I have to watch the rpm's when completing a burnout.

 

This is my pin maps for the for INs and Outs. And this works - I've had this setup in the car for close to two years.

View attachment 472012 View attachment 472013

You have some issues in your diagram for the boost control. The Mac Valves are 'ground switched' OUTPUTS and the dome sensor is a 5V INPUT. I have my dome sensor running through the In/Out box (add on), but you have plenty of ins and outs to do what you want to do, but you're left without many spare ins and outs. That's the reason I bought the in/out box that allows for 8 additional ins and 8 additional outs.

Have you followed any of Devin Vanderhoof's videos? He lays this out pretty well. He also describes how to test each function (boost control and t-brake).


This appears pretty confusing at 1st, at least it was for me coming from the MegaSquirt world. But being able to stack ins and outs is unbelievable feature. Do yourself a favor and leave the access to the in/out plug in the open for easy access. Then do a bunch of testing before you tuck all of the wiring away. Of course this makes for a messy wiring setup (for a short time) until you're more confident in the tuning and wiring - leave it accessible so that you can change it as it goes.

Having a Master Enable input is EXTREMELY convenient, and I also have a Mac valve switch that enables the 12v+ to the Mac valves via an output to trigger the 12v+ mac valve relay. But you can do this with a manual switch as well. I can attach a pinout of my I/O box also if you'd like. The only item that I don't run through the Holley is my line lock, but I'm considering doing that as well so I can limit RPM's via a dwell cut table so that I can keep the rpm's below 6K when the line lock is enabled - presently I have to watch the rpm's when completing a burnout.

You made that more understandable. And yes could you attach a pin out. What does the master enable do exactly? And what is the 12v Mac valves relay do if I need to wire it grounded. Do I need one wire to ground in each Mac valve and then the other to an output wire?

This is my pin maps for the for INs and Outs. And this works - I've had this setup in the car for close to two years.

View attachment 472012 View attachment 472013

You have some issues in your diagram for the boost control. The Mac Valves are 'ground switched' OUTPUTS and the dome sensor is a 5V INPUT. I have my dome sensor running through the In/Out box (add on), but you have plenty of ins and outs to do what you want to do, but you're left without many spare ins and outs. That's the reason I bought the in/out box that allows for 8 additional ins and 8 additional outs.

Have you followed any of Devin Vanderhoof's videos? He lays this out pretty well. He also describes how to test each function (boost control and t-brake).


This appears pretty confusing at 1st, at least it was for me coming from the MegaSquirt world. But being able to stack ins and outs is unbelievable feature. Do yourself a favor and leave the access to the in/out plug in the open for easy access. Then do a bunch of testing before you tuck all of the wiring away. Of course this makes for a messy wiring setup (for a short time) until you're more confident in the tuning and wiring - leave it accessible so that you can change it as it goes.

Having a Master Enable input is EXTREMELY convenient, and I also have a Mac valve switch that enables the 12v+ to the Mac valves via an output to trigger the 12v+ mac valve relay. But you can do this with a manual switch as well. I can attach a pinout of my I/O box also if you'd like. The only item that I don't run through the Holley is my line lock, but I'm considering doing that as well so I can limit RPM's via a dwell cut table so that I can keep the rpm's below 6K when the line lock is enabled - presently I have to watch the rpm's when completing a burnout.

You made that more understandable. Could you show me your pin out. What's the master enable actually do? And so one wire on each Mac valve goes to a ground and the other an output wire? Or what's the 12v Mac valve switch for. Thank you for the help

 

Does it really have to be PWM neg ? Why cant you pulse the pos side ?

 

I believe a Dominator and HP can do either, but the Term has to be PWM-

 

If the Terminator won’t do a pwm+ I would probably just hook up the t-brake without the SSR for now until you get the I/O add on, and yes one is hooked to 12v and one to ground that way.

 

I'll attach a pinout of the I/O box when I get home tonight.

The master enable is an input that makes the TB button not be active unless I flip the master switch - the idea being that if I push the TB button inadvertantly while driving, then the TB won't engage - I use it as somewhat of a safety.

The Mac valve input does the same, but for a different reason. When I turn on the Mac valve switch it activates another output that supplies a ground to my Mac valve relay (the Mac valve output is on my I/O box that I will attach later). The idea behind this is that I'm on spring pressure when driving. And more importantly, I've had a difficult time keeping the mac vavles inactive no matter what type of boost control picked - I believe it's a glitch in the software or something that I don't have a better strategy for. Basically, when driving your dome sensor is seeing pressure from the exhaust so the dump solenoid continues to try to dump dome press pressure. The worst situation I have experienced was during a DnD event that was close to sea level and I pulled into a gas station. The dump solenoid was going crazy clicking away trying to dump 4-5kpa of atmospheric pressure that was present from the difference between my home's elevation. When that occurred the dump solenoid was hot to the touch. The easiest solution I came up with was to not power the Mac valves until I wanted them powered. Perhaps there is a better solution in the tune, but this has worked for me for over a year and I've never had a Mac valve fail (shrug).


Regarding the Mac valve wiring - you have it backwards - both Mac valves are wired to a 12V+ supply and each Mac Valve is hooked to one PWM- output.

 

So could I just run the 12v side of the Mac valves to a toggle type switch to give it the 12v power that way?

 

Just get a Pulse Leash for bump .

You will save so much time .

 

I was answering a specific question he asked about wiring when someone uses one pwm+ on a mac valve to save the pwm- for using a SSR for the transbrake

 

I was responding to the OP, not you - sorry, I should’ve mentioned that in my response. As far as I know though, a Terminator doesn’t do PWM +, but I could be wrong. I only know what mine does and PWM+ is not an output option. But I should mention that mine is 3.5years old too, perhaps they’ve changed the newer units.