[tyler97]

Make sure you, and your engine builder/machinist go through those with a fine tooth comb.

What am I looking for? They were ran on a drag car

 

[Stockey-Yockey302]

What am I looking for? They were ran on a drag car

See how far the valve job is sunk, make sure decks are straight, see what the valve-guide clearance is etc. All that stuff can add up to a lot of $$ if you need it all...

 

[tyler97]

The valve guides and decks shouldn't be a problem the vj sunk would be... Anyway to tell from a pic?

 

[tyler97]

Do they look sunk?

 

[Mi.5.0Fred]

I have a Jegs-Kasse headed 363 built by Roush, with cam, heads and intake supplied (speced) by me. It has Wiesco pistons and I asked Ben to shoot for 12-12.5 compression. I wanted Diamond pistons, but couldn't get anywhere with them on the phone (even offered to drive heads over so they could get valve reliefs right) , so I had Roush build it. It has a shelf Comp N2O cam around 700 lift, Funnel Web intake and 950 Holley HP carb. It made 591 at 7900. With a custom NA cam and 30 more cubes you might be Ok (HP) at a lower RPM. I would go for more compression and a solid roller if I were you. How about going E-85?

 

[tyler97]

Thanks... I was kinda thinking of running a S/R
I reallt want to run e85 but there isnt any around me

 

[Doc's Notch]

If you come up with a solid plan and stick with it you can get away with a bunch on pump gas. My combination only picked up about 10 rwhp on MS109 with 4 more degrees of timing versus pump gas, just putting the 109 in the tank with no changes and it was within 2rwhp for pretty much the entire pull. I would have liked to try e-85 but it wasnt worth the hassle of changing a bunch of stuff to make it work.

 

[rollercam1]

I ran a 393W with the 205's and 18# of boost for a couple of years on a stock block well prepped with some street driving. I did start getting into main cap walk when I started twisting it to 7500. I am pretty sure the boost was doing that though. I have run the 393W for the last 2 seasons with 12.5:1 and a solid roller on the street, bearing look brand new with no cap walk shifting at 7200. I wouldn't be too worried about revving it to 7000K

 

[johndickjr]

I ran a 393W with the 205's and 18# of boost for a couple of years on a stock block well prepped with some street driving. I did start getting into main cap walk when I started twisting it to 7500. I am pretty sure the boost was doing that though. I have run the 393W for the last 2 seasons with 12.5:1 and a solid roller on the street, bearing look brand new with no cap walk shifting at 7200. I wouldn't be too worried about revving it to 7000K

The 393 is a killer motor .it gets over looked by the 408 .if on a budget a poor man 393 can be built with stock 351w rods and stock 302 pistons.

 

[tyler97]

The 393 is a killer motor .it gets over looked by the 408 .if on a budget a poor man 393 can be built with stock 351w rods and stock 302 pistons.

You can do a 393 two ways the stock rod way and a long rod way

Mine is 3.850 with eagle 6.25 rods

 

[Brian261]

had a 392 back in 96' standard bore with 3.90 arm with oliver rods and flat tops and twisted wedge heads....at 3100# and a c4 with stock suspension it run 9.80's with a big shot plate with 175 in it

 

[tyler97]

what did it run N/A?

 

[Brian261]

10.70's and that was with av gas....had a vic jr intake

 

[Brian261]

heads were really good.....I still have them. flow 305 and 252......700"

 

[Bubanator]

Windsors can make some pretty good steam without a ton of work. Back in the early 90's my dad had a 358w stock rotating assebly with a forged flat top, just under 12:1 (still ran pump fuel) cam was a .640/250*/108 solid roller, J302 heads (junk lol) that were brian wolfes heads off his then pro 5.0 car flowed 290cfm, victor jr manifold, 750 carb, with a 4500 converter, C6 (yes c6) automatic, 4.30's on a 28 at 2950lbs the car went 10.60's at 126 consistantly.

Cheap easy reliable setup that could run a lot faster with todays technology, this was 23 years ago.

 

[tyler97]

ive narrowed it down to my

TW 205s
Kaases
maybe a 220 AFR
if I find a good deal on Highports

 

[Bubanator]

I would go with whatever is the most cost effective head for you to put the combo together. I dont think theres going to be a huge difference in HP between any of those heads in this application...they are all good parts.

 

[Jrstang89]

I had 74 Windsor 3.850 cast probe crank, eagle h beam 6.2 rod with probe .040 flat tops 12.1 ish, otb Trick Flow R head 205cc runner, super victor 2924, 248/254 600 hyd roller cam, 850 ultra hp, with 3.55 and a tight precision industries converter 3900-4100 on motor C4 and ran 10.40@131 with 1.55 sixty only able to rev it to 6200, But before I had TW fast as cast 190 cc heads lighter valvetrain and better springs and went 7000 regular. Car made 468 to the tire and weighed 2850 race ready. Power never fell off on dyno so if I could have spun it to 7k would have helped allot on the shift and would have went a 20 I bet. Car made 648 with a 76 jet and went 147 in 1/4 at 6200.

 

[n5ifi]

3in mains and 2 bolt block.... I just can't afford to build another one if it ends up like my old motor, if it lives a few years I'll sell it and start with a dart block

The old 3" mains deal is a total crock of shit for drag racing. I've seen 3" main in 460's run for tens of years in 600-700 HP bracket motors that hit 7500 rpm twice every run and I never saw any problems with them at all. We were running them twice a week back then too and they were all cast crank deals. I've built a bunch of them and gotten to tear many down. I never saw any problem with mains oiling. We always broke the rods. With after market rods now they don't break those anymore. I would argue that a blown or nitrous motor might be better off with that 3" arrangement than the smaller main especially using a stock or after market cast crank. The cranks are much stouter because of it. My son races a 3 inch mains small block I built for him and there just hasn't been a problem with it and he turns it about 7700 every pass. The small block Ford Windsor has a great oiling system too for stock block motor.

I remember back in the 70's when this whole 3" mains deal came up and it originated in Nascar racing. In extreme long range wet sump racing, ya the 3" mains were a problem but for what we do 1/4, 1/8 mile at a time, they just rob a little HP compared to the same setup in a smaller dia. main and heat the oil a little and that's it. I have never seen any problem with them in drag racing at those RPM's I was talking about. You do the same stuff everyone else does. You "blue print" the oiling system and go with it. You don't need a special pump with the small block Windsor either. 60-65 lbs at full song is fine for drag racing. This assuming that all clearances are correct by the way. None of them last when the clearances are not right.

 

[tyler97]

The old 3" mains deal is a total crock of shit for drag racing. I've seen 3" main in 460's run for tens of years in 600-700 HP bracket motors that hit 7500 rpm twice every run and I never saw any problems with them at all. We were running them twice a week back then too and they were all cast crank deals. I've built a bunch of them and gotten to tear many down. I never saw any problem with mains oiling. We always broke the rods. With after market rods now they don't break those anymore. I would argue that a blown or nitrous motor might be better off with that 3" arrangement than the smaller main especially using a stock or after market cast crank. The cranks are much stouter because of it. My son races a 3 inch mains small block I built for him and there just hasn't been a problem with it and he turns it about 7700 every pass. The small block Ford Windsor has a great oiling system too for stock block motor.

I remember back in the 70's when this whole 3" mains deal came up and it originated in Nascar racing. In extreme long range wet sump racing, ya the 3" mains were a problem but for what we do 1/4, 1/8 mile at a time, they just rob a little HP compared to the same setup in a smaller dia. main and heat the oil a little and that's it. I have never seen any problem with them in drag racing at those RPM's I was talking about. You do the same stuff everyone else does. You "blue print" the oiling system and go with it. You don't need a special pump with the small block Windsor either. 60-65 lbs at full song is fine for drag racing. This assuming that all clearances are correct by the way. None of them last when the clearances are not right.

I understand.. Its just i cant take the risk... If i had a full time job and more money coming in,but right now i just cant afford to break it again