[7secondmalibu]

My malibu is 2709lbs without me in it.

That's with an F3R and the gear drive for it.
Precision Turbo PT4000 intercooler, a 7 gallon intercooler water tank full of water.
40 spline axles in a 9 inch and beadlocks.
25.3 chassis.
10lb fire system.
Full interior.

With a Radio in it!!

 

[7secondmalibu]

yeah, but you've got the most radical g body i've ever seen.I looked at all the pics of it in photo bucket (?) and was freaking amazed at the work you did to it.simply awesome!

Thanks, I've had this car since 1991 and it has been an evolution ever since then.

god damn! thats over 300lbs less then mine!

It's a lot of time and money to take the weight out. But it can be done.

I could list all the things I've done to remove weight, but that would take forever for all the stupid things I've done for a pound or two.

 

[7secondmalibu]

How about list some of it and the uncommon stuff that we wouldnt think about with the weight

The front portion of your frame is two pieces that over lap and they are lap welded together. I took a jig saw and cut down the middle of the weld, removed all the overlapping metal, raised the lower portion of the metal and butt welded the two halves together. Ground the weld down flat. About 10 lbs gone.
(see pic below)

The giant pinch weld on the body from the lower windshield corners down to the rocker area... T weld that from the inside of the car and cut that entire pinch weld out and trash it. Grind a nice radius on the outside. Just make sure you leave the portion still attached that you bolt the fender to.

Body mounts... gone!! Lowers the car body on the chassis 1 1/2 inches plus it takes out 20 lbs.

 

[7secondmalibu]

Yes good ideas, THANKS for the help If anymore plz post and pics with it if u have them.

Steering column has been torn apart and gutted on the inside. The main shaft is double D solid steel bar. On my tilt column just below the knuckle the DD shaft was cut off and replaced with a chromoly shaft. I still look into my car and everything I see on the steering column is factory. It's whats under the skin that is altered. I want my car to look factory as possible.

Factory steering column has a steering shaft, a tube for controlling the shift linkage on a column shifted car or a tube for controlling the gear indicator on a console shifted car. You don't need that tube. Remove it.

There is a large pressed metal bracket holding the steering column onto the body of the car. Mine is made from aluminum.

I still run a factory style wire harness. The difference in mine is I removed every single wire not needed. Every wire that is needed was cut to length. The factory harness has a giant loop in it to knowwhere. There was probably 5lbs of wire or more and now the harness is much easier to troubleshoot. Just be careful that you don't mix any wires up.

That's enough for today.

 

[7secondmalibu]

Here is another weight savings idea for you guys.
Not a single nut and 50% of my bolts are not standard nuts and bolts.

All non critical parts are bolted on with aluminum bolts.
Items like the heater delete plate is aluminum bolts, inner fenders are aluminum bolts, header panel, headlight bolts and screws, grill, etc... aluminum.

Bolts that can get any type of tensil load applied to them get 100% aircraft nuts and ARP bolts. For example the motor plate is mostly shear loaded but under excelleration and deceleration they can see tensil loading. A 3/8 arp bolt has a 5/16 or 3/8 wrenching head depending on 6 point or 12 point. The 3/8 aircraft nut is 7/16 wrenching.

For bolts that have shear loads only they are held in place with nylock jam nuts. My front lower only control arms are 1/2 inch 12 point bolts with 9/16 wrenching on the bolts. Typical 1/2 inch bolts are 3/4 inch wrenching. I have nylon jam nuts on those bolts. The lower control arm bolts are never tightened or it will bind and restrict the control arm movement. The upper control arms see almost 100% tensil load so you can not us a jamb nut their. My rear control arms are 100% nylon jam nuts only. I never use grade 5 or lower. Everything is grade 8 or better.

This stuff doesn't seam like much because there isn't a huge savings in one nut and one bolt. But if you think of all the fastners in the car... it's a huge savings.