. 065" is fine. Are you trying to correct something with tightening it up? This is total clearance including flange plate play?


Hutch

 

Yes I have a tiny bit of shift flare and would like to see if it helps. Clearance is checked with a notched out flange using feeler gauges so yes total included flange end play

 

I sure would like some opinions on that much line pressure, not saying it's not good as I am just throwing out a guys opinion that has been doing this a long time. He told me that anything over about 255-260 does weird stuff to the band (distortion) maybe that's leading to a flare? Again not saying you can't go that high, just bringing up some conversation.

 

For what it's worth and not sure if it was a good or bad decision but I backed off the regulator 1/2 turn. I started up the car yesterday to test the trans and pressure is now 266 psi at idle in gear where it was 275 in the past

 

Flare can be tricky. What vb?


Hutch

 

Cast iron Coan with adjustable regulator.

 

Iron vb are good. Check for flow restrictions, there are 2 manual valves to choose from so be sure to use a thick land valve and. 065" will help also.


Hutch

 

Hope everyone is doing well. I am trying to learn and get an "educated" explanation for the above recommended .065 clutch clearance on the 10 clutch direct pack. I have read many times, here on YellowBullet, that the "standard" accepted clearance is .010 per friction - Mr. Hipster even recommends .015 per friction. I am, in no way, trying to start an argument but would really appreciate an explanation why this pack is suggested at .0065 per friction? Will the professionals please weigh in and explain the reduction in suggested clearance? Also, does this reduced clearance apply to the Reverse pack and how many reverse frictions are suggested in this high HP application? Thank you for your continued guidance and time!!! Y'all stay safe!!! 👌

 

With the 10 clutch pack there is limited piston travel. Depending on hp level clearance has to be adjusted to keep shift timing in check.


Hutch

 

Thank you Hutch - that makes sense!

 

Your car makes some steam, I wouldn't even think of running a 6.0 car at that.


Hutch

 

Your car makes some steam, I wouldn't even think of running a 6.0 car at that.


Hutch

I am not understanding what your saying? Please explain

 

Pressure is a bit low at 266.


Hutch

 

So turn it back up to 275 or go higher? I searched the forum and saw numerous old post that you recommended 250 max.

 

285 would be the number if the type of regulator system your vb uses will allow.


Hutch

 

285 would be the number if the type of regulator system your vb uses will allow.


Hutch

Before my first pass this past weekend I turned in the regulator 3/4 turn and that netted me 285 going down the track. The slight shift flare I was trying to correct with the tighter pack clearance was gone for the first 3 passes then came back on the 4th. Pressure spikes to just over 300 at the shift point, drops to about 250 during the shift and right back to 285 for the rest of the run which seems normal.

 

Steve McDee Have you been out? Does the pressure help the shift flare or is it the clearance?

 

First race will be D4 race in Houston next week.

 

Pull it apart and check clutch pack. If it is ok, then it's time to move into a more detailed approach. Do check the band setting to see if it has changed.


Hutch

 

Pull it apart and check clutch pack. If it is ok, then it's time to move into a more detailed approach. Do check the band setting to see if it has changed.


Hutch

Okay I got it apart band and all high clutches and steals look great, no signs of heat or slipping but I did pick up .015 clearance in the clutch pack. Pack is now .080. There is only 4 runs on the pack, last run was 6.04 in the 1/4 on the brakes

Hutch, what are your thoughts? Should I swap out 2 .060 steals for 2 .070 steals and tighten the pack up to .060?

I am using the red clutches and Kolene steels that Sonnax sells if it matters, I have had very good luck with them in the past.

Thanks

 

Flat clutch plates? Were they new 4 runs ago?


Hutch

 

Flat clutch plates? Were they new 4 runs ago?


Hutch

Yes and yes

 

Start with sanding all the black shit off those steels, readjust clearance and go to the next race.
What manual valve is in the valve body?


Hutch

 

Sonnax

 

I take it you do not like the Kolene coating?

 

With that Kolene coating it probably isn't too far off to think that you have worn into it .0015 per plate. With as many clutches as you have in there it wouldn't take much per to make up .015 total.

 

Kolene black finish must be removed prior to use. Sand it off and go.


Hutch

 

Any particular sandpaper grit do you recomend?

 

Is there a reason not to just go back with non Kolene steels instead of taking all that time to sand off the coating? Steels aren't that expensive and what's your time worth, just a thought unless sanding them benefits something else.

 

Yea if you don't spend 2x the money on a steel with a fancy name...how can you put cool words on the build sheet and impress the guys that don't know any better?!
That's the main reason to go with kolene...they sound cool and have hype associated with them.

"plain" steels are just fine

kolene steels actually have a lower coefficient of friction. They're "slippery-er"
the black coating clogs up the frictions. Refresh a unit where it hasn't been sanded off and the frictions will look look burnt up. But they aren't...they're just stained with the black coating.

 

180 grit should kill it.


Hutch