My first question is - Do you have any data indicating you need an oil cooler?

My twin turbo SBF doesn't have one. I recently installed an oil temp probe in the oil pan so I can monitor the temp. Highest I've seen so far is 220deg F after extended engine running time. This was with ambient temperatures in the 85-90deg F range. I do have a 7 quart oil pan and OD so I can cruise 70mph at only 2200-2300rpm so that helps.

My suggestion is to first have a bung installed in your oil pan so you can monitor the temperature. This is important for 2 things. One is you want to make sure you have a minimum safe temperature before you run the car hard (oil that is too cold doesn't flow well). Second reason is to see how hot your temperatures get. Oil temperatures should get to at least 200-210deg F to boil off any moisture. Anything up to 240deg F is fine even with conventional oil. Above that temp you are still fine with synthetics up to approximately 280deg F.

Based on my experience, if you have a 7+ quart capacity oil system, I'd be surprised if you ever exceed 240deg F during street driving. At the track, you will probably see lower temperatures.

Coolers are typically only needed for engines that run at high output for an extended amount of time (road racing, Nascar, etc). If you do install a cooler, you definitely need a thermostat otherwise your oil may never get to a good minimum temperature.

 

Lot of good discussion here, found this thread as I searched "how do I size an oil cooler"... I have an oil temp probe in an oil gallery on my LS build and after essentially hot lapping the car 3-4 few passes (street racing round robbin), I've seen temps in the mid 240s. I have another post here on the bullet asking what oil temp should be, the replies were mostly that oil temp should be roughly the same as engine coolant temp.

I had planned to add a small stacked bar/plate type cooler from Earl's, but the idea of an oil cooler thermostat and such seems like an additional headache. It makes me wonder why GM has coolers on some performance cars with no thermostat device though.. I bought a factory corvette pan adapter with hardlines that route along the pan rail and then has flex hose to crossover the void between your engine and radiator. Figured I would flare the ends of the hardline and make my own hoses to run the rest of the way to and from the cooler.

 

I used the Canton thermostat and a Setrab oil cooler.
I can see it on my gauge during the summer months where the outside temps are 115+ degrees.
But for the most part, I don't think it was worth the added expense.

 

QUOTE=Topfun99;46770050]My first question is - Do you have any data indicating you need an oil cooler?

My twin turbo SBF doesn't have one. I recently installed an oil temp probe in the oil pan so I can monitor the temp. Highest I've seen so far is 220deg F after extended engine running time. This was with ambient temperatures in the 85-90deg F range. I do have a 7 quart oil pan and OD so I can cruise 70mph at only 2200-2300rpm so that helps.

My suggestion is to first have a bung installed in your oil pan so you can monitor the temperature. This is important for 2 things. One is you want to make sure you have a minimum safe temperature before you run the car hard (oil that is too cold doesn't flow well). Second reason is to see how hot your temperatures get. Oil temperatures should get to at least 200-210deg F to boil off any moisture. Anything up to 240deg F is fine even with conventional oil. Above that temp you are still fine with synthetics up to approximately 280deg F.

Based on my experience, if you have a 7+ quart capacity oil system, I'd be surprised if you ever exceed 240deg F during street driving. At the track, you will probably see lower temperatures.

Coolers are typically only needed for engines that run at high output for an extended amount of time (road racing, Nascar, etc). If you do install a cooler, you definitely need a thermostat otherwise your oil may never get to a good minimum temperature.[/QUOTE]

Good stuff ^^^^
It's a new combo so I do not have any feedback. My pan is an 8qt. so I will just run it with a standard filter and see where the temp goes.
Thanks again!

 

Does running a diaper change anything?

 

Yes, it covers the block and pan area where you normally would get some cooling, especially the pan. I don't know how much it affects the maximum temperature, but I would make a rough guess at 20-50deg F.

 

I have a system to put in, I can't remember if the the thermostat opens at 250, or 280, pretty sure it turns off the fan at 180. It's been a couple of years since I've seen it. LOL The reason I got it was for running a diaper on the road.

 

My NA 440 sbc 13.1 comp street engine , dailys dry sump system reach approx. 200F when pushed hard will move to 240F, approx. 13 quart in system .

I have found when started up the water temp will reach 180F before the engine oil even register 140F, takes approx. 5 mins at least before the oil starts to get warm

 

I notice the new gen OE hot rods have external oil coolers, but see that the trucks use an in-radiator cooler like older car trans cooler.. My new radiator has a cooler in the lower tank, seems useful to get oil warmed up quicker and then keep the temp down-ish. My coolant thermostat is an LS OE temp, 186deg, should be effective in getting up to temp quicker and then reduce higher temps?? ...as long as the port openings and such don't appear to be a flow restriction. The ports in LS oil pan are 0.460" or so.

Dumb?

Other plan right now would be an Earl's oil thermostat and small cooler.