I have blocked them and will say this......

It will work fine as long as you use oil that is not excessively heavy viscosity
and is up to temperature before bringing rpms up and this includes free
revving in the pits etc....

I had no issues with this until one day the car blew a head gasket on a pass
and pushed water into the lifter valley mixing with the oil and then clogging
the filter up and then the excess pressure pushed out the o-ring seal on the
filter and it dumped all of the oil out as I crossed the stripe.

I saw I had no oil pressure as the car was slowing down but had no idea why,
Got lucky on that one as none of the oil got under the tires.

 

I have blocked them and will say this......



It will work fine as long as you use oil that is not excessively heavy viscosity

and is up to temperature before bringing rpms up and this includes free

revving in the pits etc....



I had no issues with this until one day the car blew a head gasket on a pass

and pushed water into the lifter valley mixing with the oil and then clogging

the filter up and then the excess pressure pushed out the o-ring seal on the

filter and it dumped all of the oil out as I crossed the stripe.



I saw I had no oil pressure as the car was slowing down but had no idea why,

Got lucky on that one as none of the oil got under the tires.

Blocked mine. Took a buddy for a ride and didn't realize the oil cooled off that much. Wound it up and blew the oil filter seal out with all the oil. Cost me a crank and rods. Spun 4 rod bearings.

Unblocked or run an oil temp gauge.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

I read the other thread, and sure there is a good reason for a bypass or the factory would not have used them.However, my race engine does not have a bypass adapter nor a bypass type filter. It has a Peterson pump and can go from 20psi to 80 (even 90 if the oil is not hot enough) in an instant. I always cut and check my filters and have never seen damage to the pleats. usually 10w 30 Redline or Amsoil. Wix 51061. Thats all I got.

 

My “theory “ is, I’d rather get unfiltered oil, then no oil at all. It cost me an engine once, when a never to be used again brand of filter wasn’t letting enough oil through. And I won’t name the filter brand, but I think we all know.

 

A good case here. You have to know what your doing when building an engine and what parts to use,

I have always blocked the bypass and no problems to date, If you know what your doing it works.

 

i rather run fully filtered oil and use oil pressure ingnition cut off switch to safe my engine.

 

It's not about pressure. It's about flow when going from low RPM to high. If the oil can't get through the filter media fast enough there will be a lack of flow when the motor is under heavy load. The bypass works when there is a pressure differential to keep the flow constant. most drag car motors are getting the oil changed often enough that the oil isn't breaking down.

I don't know what oil pressure cutoff switch you are using but I'd say it's set pretty low, around 15psi or less.

 

David Reher wrote about this. He agreed with the above statement about better to have some dirty oil than not oil. Also, for what it's worth, my VW went 150,000 miles with NO FILTER AT ALL.

'

 

I block the bypass and run an oil filter with an internal bypass like Hastings LF349 or LF524.

 

Interesting reading in the current post in the NA section about oils and the bypass. It would seem since the bypass sees both side of the oil pressure that it should only pop open for a split second at points such as going from idle to WOT in the beams, where the input pressure to the filter exceeds the output by more than ~8psi.


We've always plugged them off or run a billet adapter with no bypass, but I may switch to either having the bypass or a filter that has it internal. Rather have a split second of unfiltered oil going through the motor vs a split second of starvation.

 

I doubt the engine actually sees starvation, just not as much flow as non filtered oil for that split second. How do we know if flow is insufficient for that small time? I'm guessing if no damage is done to the filter, then it is flowing plenty. I see a bypass as a safety feature for daily drivers that may not see frequent oil changes and possibly a nearly clogged filter. just speculation.

 

Who else reckons that it won't make a hill of beans either way? Plug it or not, and run it. Its a matter of opinion and only those who have tested it in some controlled way really know if a bypass is necessary in any given scenario.

 

That adapter plate is a no-bypass type plate and unless the oil filter you use has an internal bypass then you are running all your oil thru the filter all the time.

I believe that if you are racing and pushing extreme rpms and conditions then a larger remote filter is in order and that's why I like the big HP6 type filters with no bypass.

A pressure spike is not going to cause a problem in this size filter in a non-bypasselement because they can flow 20 gallons per minute versus 5-6 gallons per minute on small stock type screw on filters that mount to the block.

Also when racing or maintaining a high performance engine most all users and enthusiasts change their oil and filters in short periods that never allow dirt or clogging to be an issue.

Blowups or blowouts with coolant in the oil under loads do damage to internals way beyond the oil that may blow out from an o-ring. JMHO

 

To each his own. I think blockin it it today is total bullshit. But that’s just me.

 

Whats different about today than before today in regards to blocking the bypass? Not trying to be wise, I know you know alot about race engines.

 

Also, anyone running anything more then a stock type pressure/volume pump in a wet sump SBC is doing so for no reason. The stock type pumps oil perfect without any help from higher volume, or pressure. But again, to each their own.

 

Tell that to GM they use HV pumps in some of the engines.

I block my bypasses and from time to time a customer will cheap out and put a fram filter and call from the track and say they only have 35 LBS of pressure. My comment take the orange filter off and put on the 1061 NAPA gold and it will fax your problem and it always does. And most of my circle track engines I use a 10663 pump with a spring change.

Now that being said with a junk filter that flows very little oil that would tell me the bypass is wide open all the time and some one using an HV pump and heavy oil its wide open not filtering anything.

 

CNC Blocks X2!

Again "a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing!"

 

True, and too much bullshit, ends up being too much bullshit. Apparently it works well both ways, and people can do as they choose. It’s reall such a small issue to me it ain’t worth arguing over. My opinion is CNC ain’t wrong, and neither is RMS. So, again, to each his own.

 

turn my vega 8200 with blocked bypass and 10w30 penzzoil plus wix filter never a issue the bearings that came with crank 12 years ago

 

I actually agree. And I can show you a 322” that ran 2 years with the bypass not blocked, and we still run the bearings over.

 

I rebuilt marine Mercs with a stock bypass because factory demanded it for warranty purposes.

On my car I blocked the bypass, Dart SHP block, Wix 21 micron filter, never a problem. Fired up a couple times in freezing temperatures and oil pressure climbed just as if it was a normal day. 10w40 oil.

Then added a filter relocator with a thermostat, an10 hose, 25row oil cooler.

Pressure climbs just as fast as it did before. Standard Melling oil pump with a bigger pickup. Did 2000miles of drag week, beating on it, and normal use with cruising in the car last summer.

No problems anywhere and oil still looks good on the stick.

I'd go as far as saying bypass is for people that don't pay attention and/or run a small filter every day all year. Probably a good move by the OEMs.

 

I’m glad it works for you all when you plug the bypass. And it will. If you use the right filter. But, all it takes is one time, with the wrong filter, and they can have a bad day. Let’s all be honest. Ideally it’s best to filter all oil, all the time. My machinist insists on plugging the bypass, and running only a wix filter, and he loves high volume/high pressure pumps. And he has engines running all over the world. Successfully I might add. I just like it unplugged. And so do others. I’ve never had bearings look that bad because of the bypass, and again, maybe I’ve just been lucky. Carry on.

 

I’m glad it works for you all when you plug the bypass. And it will. If you use the right filter. But, all it takes is one time, with the wrong filter, and they can have a bad day. Let’s all be honest. Ideally it’s best to filter all oil, all the time. My machinist insists on plugging the bypass, and running only a wix filter, and he loves high volume/high pressure pumps. And he has engines running all over the world. Successfully I might add. I just like it unplugged. And so do others. I’ve never had bearings look that bad because of the bypass, and again, maybe I’ve just been lucky. Carry on.

No disagreement there. Like you say, one wrong filter or one filter change too few on your plugged bypass engine, might be very expensive to fix. I just like to know that all the oil is filtered all the time.

 

That current thread I mentioned before in the NA section is definitely worth reading through.


Fram has turned around since being sold off in 2011, their Ultra now repeatedly tests as one of the best off the shelf filters available, as well as Baldwin filters. On the other hand, Wix has started going downhill since being bought out in 2016. - We use Wix/Napa at work and have definitely noticed some changes. Many of our trucks run cartridge type filters and the quality of the pleating has noticeably dropped; uneven spacing, sections butted up flat against each other, etc. Likely doesn't hurt anything in those particular apps, but a visual sign of the QC falling and in a higher demand application it would inhibit flow.

 

From that thread -

For the past few years, Fram filters have been made in the US and their quality greatly improved, especially the Fram Ultra line. The Fram Ultra XG8A filter flows more, filters more, and has a higher burst pressure than the Wix 51515 while also being cheaper.