Yellow Bullet Forums banner

Need help with rear suspension

1 reading
776 views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  BSouders80  
#1 ·
I have an 89 Foxbody.

when I bought the car, it was as allegedly a turn key drag car.

Since I bought the car, we have done a lot of work to it. Now running a Mueller 427, running 98/108 turbo on Methanol.

9” rear end
Viking crusader shocks
Ladder bar + wishbone

275/60/15 MT radials

After we took to the track in March, my tuner was saying we need to put lighter springs on it.
They installed Landrum 55# springs

Since then, I have had issues getting traction off the line.

Sat night, I pretty much neutered the car. Left on 3 psi, pulled 20 degrees timing off the line and ramped to 8 psi on the dome over about 2 seconds and left it at 8 psi on the dome. I still blew the tires off. Left at 3750 on the 2 step.

The seller of the car said the radials had about 10 passes on them. Now my tuner says that I need new tires to hook and go. I have a set of new MT ET street radial pro’s. I also have a set of 28x10.5 pro bracket radials coming.

On my shock settings, I’m 14 clicks in on compression with 18 total clicks available. On rebound, I’m 14 clicks in as well with a total of 21 clicks available.

From what I gather, 110# springs are a common choice for fox body owners.
I made one good pass at OKC Thunder Valley. 1.3 60’ and 5.33 @ 138 mph
I do have shock sensors and a good data log from that run.

I would sure appreciate some input on this. The dang car ran in the high 4’ with a SBE 5.3 at 3200 pounds. Car now weighs around 2800 with 200 pound driver.

I have lots of videos. What I have noticed in the previous track visits, my car will hook off the line, but then break traction as the rear separates.
 
#3 ·
I can measure travel up to 6.00" On full separation, they're around 5.5" They're extending about 2.5" compared to shock height at staging.

I was talking to a buddy last night who runs a foxbody as well. Comparable power levels. He said if the car weighs between 2500 and 3000, use 80# springs. If over 3000, use 110 springs. My car is 2800 with me in it, so I did order a set of the 80# springs.
 
#4 ·
You know how much weight is on the rear VS front? I agree- 55lb springs are light, 80lb is a much more reasonable area to be in. Did it wanna wheelie bad before with the old springs? The long, light springs in the back will really help stand the back of the car up and curb wheelies. If you’re having traction issues though, the back of the car extending 5-6” is not helping at all. It’s fighting all of your weight transfer and holding weight onto the front tires.
 
#5 ·
55 lb springs? On a 2800 lb car they should be seriously compressed. I would say too much compressed but I never raced a fox body. I run 110s on a 2800 lb car. The whole spring weight thing depends on what you are doing with the car. A ladder bar car is going to separate due to the short IC. What angle do you have on the bars? Uphill? Level? Downhill?
 
#7 ·
No I don’t know IC and the anti squat. I follow instructions well if someone can tell me how to figure the anti squat and IC.

On the ladder bars, how do I check the angle. Is that based off of which hole the bolt is in?

My car does separate very fast.

I’ll link a video from OKC. What I see is my car hooks off of the line, but as the separation goes up, traction breaks. OKC 5/24 Run 1
 
#8 · (Edited)
Your IC is pretty easy. Its right at the bolt on the ladder bars. Just put an angle finder on the lower bar and see where it is at. That doesn't tell the hole story but at least you will have an idea. You want separation with the radials but I don't know about 5.5 inches just after the hit. If your bars are level or slightly uphill at rest, then imagine how they are with the body 5.5 inches higher. Way uphill. If it is level or slightly uphill hopefully you have a lower bolt hole to drop it down and try. Years ago I had a car that had the brackets welded too high in the chassis that was like that. The bars were uphill in the lowest hole even with the car lowered in the rear. We had to move the brackets down 3 inches to get the adjustability right. This was with slicks.

You are going to have to learn a lot of this so you can make your own decisions on chassis adjustment. Everyone taking a stab at you suspension online probably isn't going to fix it. Every car is different and what might have worked on your buddies car might not work on yours.
 
#9 ·
I spent some time calculating IC and A/S.

IC Length: 32.29"
IC Height: 10.29"
A/S % - 168.9%

For camshaft height, I used center of crank bolt + 4.914"
I have a ladder bar setup with wishbone + arb.

My car has been 1.1X in the 60" on a few tracks down south in TX and OK. This was with the previous owner. The only thing that I have changed is the rear shock springs. My tuner said they looked like 80# and he installed 55#

How do these numbers look? On the front bolt of the ladder bars, it's in the center bolt. 3 holes.

I did add my body weight to the car. About 135lb in the seat and then 70lb in the floor board.

Center axle height looks like 12.75"

When I was at OKC with my car, I had a decent run on low boost. 5.33 at 138 mph on a ramp to 15 psi boost. I ran a 1.30 60' on that run. I just looked at the data log. My rear shock sensor says that it was at 5.57" travel at 1.16 sec. I can measure up to right around 5.95"

Any input would be appreciated.

Image


Running 275/60/15 Radials



Image
 
#15 ·
No - I don't believe so. I've made some changes since this and I had a pretty good night of testing in Tulsa on 8/15. Before my last run, we had loosened up the rebound on the front 2 clicks and also loosened the rear two clicks on rebound and tightened the rear up 2 clicks on compression. The separation was really good. 2.5" in the rear and about 3" in the front. Traction was good off of the line and my data log looked really good. I'm headed back this Friday the 29th to start adding in some power. Will advise on Sat how it went.