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LS RELUCTOR WHEEL SLIP.

20K views 27 replies 21 participants last post by  Genesch  
#1 ·
Hi, had my Car on the dyno yesterday. I run the holley dominator system. All was going well. Started another pull and about half way through run the engine gave a light sputter and shut off. When you try to start it pops and backfires out the exhaust like its out of time. I am getting a crank and cam signal. It's a 2008 callies comp star crank. Would a slipped reluctor cause this? Thanks.
 
#7 ·
I had my 24x split into 2 pieces and slip and retard the timing by 20* it would still start and run but was way down on power.
 
#9 ·
it moved. mine did the same earlier this year. drop the starter and pull the crank sensor out. bet you can move it with a screwdriver. i put a billet one piece one and welded the bitch on
 
#13 · (Edited)
They are not rivets. They are actually stamped together. Welding has to be done on the backside to attach the two pieces together. I do every build like this to avoid problems.

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I've had this problem with Callies stuff more than a handful of times. Its not even worth the phone call anymore. Every crank I use gets the stock 24x wheel tigged together and then tigged to the crank. They are machining to much off the back of the cranks and the reluctor doesn't have a full pad to ride on. Which splits it or makes it come off at high RPM.

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#22 ·
^^^^This^^^^
 
#28 ·
can you weld the wheel while the crank is still assembled in the short block? Will this affect the balance of the rotating assembly?
I have a Callies crank in my Ls7 shortblock that has not been put in the car yet. Should I weld it or let it ride and see what happens. I don't want to pull it apart to weld it.