It roll the tires or push them thru?

 

Pump the pedal up lock it and stab the throttle 5000rpm then report back

 

I like the Line Lock blocking the rear. That way I can control the brake pressure while doing my thing, instead of being stuck with what I put in it to begin with.

 

I notice most of the rookies with line-lock pump the brake and step on the gas daintly and the front brakes hold, but they are pushing the front tires because the back tires over power the fronts

 

especially if they drive through and soak the front tires in the water box.

 

The best solution is to put 255 or wider tires on the front. More contact patch so it'll hold better. Preferably slicks if possible.

 

Reading through this to see some good info.....

So far I am seeing some silly stuff mostly.

Drag cars drive through the water, that is how the game works.

Fat tires up front will indeed help the car from pushing, but......the entire drag racing world does not revolve around dial in racing. Fat fronts slow you down.

If your fronts are rolling, make your front brakes work better.

If you are sliding your front tires......quit being a pussy and use that little pedal on the far right, and if you cannot start your burnout in high gear, take your time, like maybe .2 seconds to get it there.

 

Reading through this

If you are sliding your front tires......quit being a pussy and use that little pedal on the far right, and if you cannot start your burnout in high gear, take your time, like maybe .2 seconds to get it there.

I THINK HE WAS TALKING ABOUT THE STARTING LINE!!! Didn't mean to yell, but I ain't typing that again!!!

 

Pump the brakes a few times, hold the brake, set the loc, mat the skinny pedal

 

Two step to the line lock! Find your push!

 

Tried it in the pole barn on smooth concrete just now. Pump 3 times, hold and push the lock button. Barely push the gas and the front tire rolls. I have tightened the brakes.

 

Swap to discs. Our nova was 4 wheel drum when we first started out and it was bad enough footbraking much less a line lock.

 

Well my answer was a joke, but now I'm actually interested.

 

If you have drum brakes up front, I'm going to assume you have a stock braking system. Does your stock system have a factory proportioning valve? If so the bias from front to back has already been set from the factory.

You could remove the stock proportioning valve and install a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve so you can tighten up the front brake holding power. A good starting point would be 60/40 front to rear.

What vehicle do you have?

 

It has a new last year Muscle Car drum brake set up. Better shoes and drums. Drum brakes have a distribution block. A larger line from the master cylinder for the rear.

 

Does the seal on your master cylinder cover hang down or up by the cover?

 

What year and model car do you have?

 

The problem is likely with your brakes, not the line lock.

If you suspect the line lock to be the problem, do a foot brake burnout. If you have any amount of power, it should easily blow through the rear brakes.

When doing your burnout, don't dick around with the throttle. Get some rpm and wheel speed in quickly.

 

FYI IMO. I don't think it is because it has front drums.My Bird has front drums and I do not have that problem.
Shoes adjusted up? All I got....

 

try this
activate the lineloc, pump up brakes, stab the throttle

 

try this
activate the lineloc, pump up brakes, stab the throttle

If his line lock is working correctly, he will have no front braking at all by hitting the line lock first.....

 

Drums have more clamping force/ holding power than disk when adjusted right.. That is why foot brake cars have rear drum.

 

Stand on the brakes, push the button, let off the pedal, STAND on the pedal, release the button, get right back on the button, let off the pedal and when you get on the gas dont be a pussy, put some rpm's in that bich with a quickness.

 

Switch to organic shoes in the front, smaller diameter wheel cylinders in the front will help also. Other than that, don't expect it to hold while you roll into the throttle. It's not a trans brake.

 

Add another line-lock solenoid on the rear circuit for lauching
And only use the front solenoid for burnouts

It is very simple to wire up with a 2-way diverter switch and a blocking diode [and 2 LED indicator lights]

 

1969 chevy. Doing a foot brake burnout it holds until I am ready to move out. The brakes are adjusted out. I will try more throttle quicker.

 

If you are pushing through the brakes then it's time to upgrade to discs. Or maybe research a better brake wheel cylinder for those drums

 

Already have over sized wheel cylinders. I know discs are an option but wanted to stay with drums.

 

Smaller cylinders more pressure!!!

 

Its likely a matter of brake bias, Try loosening the rear brakes to allow the fronts to clamp tighter.......better yet as said a while back plumb the line-lock into the rear brake line so that it locks out the rear brakes then stand on the bitch (brake pedal) while you apply throttle....I bought my Monte with the line lock plumbed this way and after using it a few times I would never plumb another into the front lines.