I used it on a flat tappet SBC. Excellent product.

However, I am now using Mobil 1 in my roller build.

 

I also use 20w50 on my flat tappet. Just pulled my motor apart to inspect it, all bearings, cam and lifter lobes look great.

 

I swear by mobil 1 but it is very hard for me to.find it in 20w50 here only one place I found 15w50 but every shop seems to recommend that brad penn and the lucus stabilizer

 

Every big box parts store as well as WalMart sells 15w50 Mobil 1

 

Yea I may have to but the builder ran 20w50 valvoline vr1 and with as fast as the engine warms up id like to go a little thicker..with the mobil 1 are you running any zddp additive with it?

 

You do know the 20 and 15 are cold viscosity right? If heating up fast is a concern the hot viscosity is what you need to look at and a qt of Lucas can't hurt.

 

Are you running a roller or flat tappet?

No need for zinc additive with a roller.

 

BBF here and I use the brad penn oil 20w50. Works fine for me. It's a roller motor.

 

Use it for 10 years now in my 540 BBC. Mostly hard street use. Not a lot of track. Late last summer, I overheated the piss out the motor after I flung off my water pump belt street driving. So after 10 years I decided to tear it down. Everything looked great.
So, I'm sticking with the Brad Penn.

 

Just my .02. The Brad Penn is a semi-synthetic which really means that it is conventional oil that has been heated up to a certain temperature to try to remove impurities and has some additives. However the end result is that the oil itself still has conventional oil properties. Full synthetic oils are man made to carry higher loads before it breaks down and also does not break down under heat as fast. Some people get away with using conventional oils, but for me and for race applications I don't like to just get away with something because it's cheaper. The engine is worth a lot more money than the $2 a quart you are saving. I always use full synthetic oils. My personal choice is Amsoil Full Synthetic Dominator Racing Oil. I have used Amsoil for many many years and love it. That's why I decided to become a dealer. And if getting oil is an issue, I can get you Amsoil very easily. Also the high zinc and phosphorous levels in an oil like with the Amsoil is not just for flat tappet cams. It allows the oil to protect all moving parts better.

 

I have ran Brad Penn in my pump gas street strip solid roller 408w nitrous car for 4/5 years now with no issues. Only bearings i have seen were the rods last winter and they look perfect. Motor has over 7k miles on it and has been running in 140s mph with good rpms for the last 3 years. Just my experience with the oil and how its used in my motor, ill never change.

 

I have run Brad Penn 20-50 for the last 4 years. My bearings looked like new when I freshened it up last Winter. The reason I decided on the Brad Penn was because it is one of the few that has Zinc and other additives and works well with alcohol.

 

And brad penn remains slippery when contaminated with fuel!

 

Im running a tappet.. I plan to run the lucus with w.e oil this car is stubborn cold but once fired up gets up there REALLY fast

 

I was at a local walmart and read a bottle of the mobil one advanced full synthetic 15w50 and they now have zinc in it..and was also on sale for $20 for 5 qts..that lucas stuff thickens oil and has additives correct?

 

Slow,
Mobil1 15w50 has always had zinc in it, about 1500PPM.
If you like it, then try the Mobil1 racing 0w50, it's way better but more expensive.

 

Good stuff. I just bought a couple cases of 10-30. I'm told the thick oil isn't really of benefit on a race engine.

 

Im just not sure what clearances are and thats what the builder ran was 20w50 but im sure with 15w50 and stabilizer I'll be good to go with mobil

 

All Brad Penn oil is re labeled overpriced Kendall GT1 lube from the old days.

Not junk but does not last as long as AMSOIL does So I go with the cheaper

stuff that last years longer than Brad-Penn without the drain and refill game.

 

I use that overpriced junk Brad Penn and it appears that it is less than half the price of AMSOIL. I buy the Brad Penn for about $60 for a case of 12 and the price I found on the AMSOIL is $12.75 a quart. I do not mean to sound like a smart ass but which one is overpriced?
The Brad Penn has a good additive package and Zinc and moly. Exactly how is the AMSOIL better? More Zinc?

 

i started using it 4years ago . the first motor ran three years with it bracket racing every weekend we would. pulled motor apart begining of last year and all the bearings were in great shape .could of run for couple more years.run 331 small block ford run mid 10s.this motor run roller cam i use 15 40 green racing oil in it.built a 545 big block ford and will run it to.

 

Before I knew anything about oil 25 years ago, I knew enough that if I could find Kendall GT1 oil on the shelf, it was green and my engine ran better with that oil. Problem then was finding it on the shelf, it was the same price as other oils but never stayed on the shelf.
So had to buy a lesser quality same priced oil.
Can you see why they pulled the line?

Well Brad Penn did good, good move for the old car culture. Less fucked up camshafts and ruined engines.

 

Nothing like an oil thread to bring up the unsubstantiated bs. It starts out deep and just keeps getting deeper!

 

Nothing like an oil thread to bring up the unsubstantiated bs. It starts out deep and just keeps getting deeper!

I don't claim to "know" anything. Here's what I've gathered. Brad Penn in it's old formulation was hard to beat, Amsoil Guys allegations aside. Supposedly at some point they made it 2008 compliant and if it meets the regs it no longer has zinc.

Renegade is supposedly top of the heap with VR1 coming in a close second as non-synthetics go. I am open to any info contradictory to this synopsis. Thanks.

 

Lots of Misinformation here about Brad Penn oil.Original Kendall Green oil was mfg by American Refining Group in Bradford P.A..ARG sold the Kendall name around 15 years ago to an investment group who has some one else mfg the new Kendall not as good as the old Kendall.ARG decided to get back in the Racing oil business about 10 years ago,They brought back the "Green Oil"with a combination of hydrocarbon base stock and a new synthetic additive package.The new blends have good PPM of ZDDP for flat tappet cams and minimum Moly for needle bearing skid.Brad Penn is a good oil for Sportsman racing especially Alky engines.There are other oils for the Low ET of the World crowd and priced accordingly.ARG has recently sold the Brad Penn Co to DA Speed Sport Lubricants Indiana,However the Brad Penn oil will still be mfg by ARG in PA. No changes in product at this time.Bill C.

 

Thank you for posting that info Bill!

 

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Been there, done that, still doing the same thing...

 

But you still did not give one single reason or any proof why AMSOIL is better or worth the extra money. I have won races and have video of it does not mean my oil is better. I have also caught people sleeping on the tree (and have been caught myself!) but do not see what that has to do with oil. I will admit I have never ran my oil 40,000 miles and never will no matter what kind of oil I run. My motor is worth way too much to risk it.
AMSOIL may be good oil if you are so convinced it is better tell me why. I run a high RPM small block with big roller cam and high spring pressure on alcohol and do not want valve train failure. Is there any real or legitimate reason why it would be better than the Brad Penn I currently use?

 

I can only report on what I have used and how it worked for me.

I would use Brad Penn if I had nothing else, I think it is fine.

But changing it so soon does nothing for me.

Synthetic oils are known to last longer so I started in 1997 with 8 quarts of Royal Purple in a 428 CobraJet I owned, I dumped out maybe some Kendall GT1 I really do not remember but I poured in RP and cranked up the engine.
Sold right there, The idle rose 300rpm I had to lower it 300rpm, engine ran smoother, had more pep, I was SOLD SOLD SOLD! $60 I spent then was my first investment in a great direction for me.
If I was going to pay that much for Royal Purple I figured what else is available?

I found AMSOIL and all has been great results, I can order anything I need no searching or worries.

My deciding factor then was availability, a factory direct connection appealed to me more than what 5 or 6 other manufactures had me trying to accept.

AMSOIL has the best deal for the money if you are shopping.

How many passes/runs on a oil interval?

what rod and main clearance you run?

Do you run an air filter?

how much time between events? how long does the car sit?

any more info on the combo?

 

I run BP 20-50 with comps cams additive, I won't run anything else.

 

Taking oil analysis is necessary in vehicles that you would extend drain intervals on, This way you know the condition of the engine by collecting data of wear metals and additives.

Maybe a drag engine will not need a long drain oil because they come apart for inspection more often, myself I reuse the oil.

Each analysis that comes in you learn how to cut all the slack when it comes to quality filters and lubricants.

I was excited when a 40,000 mile UOA came back still good for continued use, that was 5 years of use one crankcase of Diesel oil.

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"Oil Analizers "is an Amzoil Company.Bill C.

 

Hows amsoil for alky contamination?
I wasn't all that impressed with Mobil 1 for that.

 

I cannot give any hands on experience using AMSOIL with an alky fueled engine, yet!
May be a couple airboats I know of needing some out here.

I do know the SYN base stock used can withstand the thinning effects fuel dilution.

The oil analysis reports have verified this for me, but no data that I own on race fuel.

All the Racing oils from AMSOIL are not long drain design, but for track use it could last a whole season depending on everything else going smoothly for the crew.

I like the magnet drain plug, that right there tells all!

 

I also run a high horsepower, high compression, high rpm SBC, with very high spring pressures, drag race engine. I turn 9200 rpm repeatedly every week with the engine only going as low as 8500 rpm between shifts. I have tried many different oils before settling with Amsoil. I got my information from many vigorous tests and then logging how everything came out after the same amount of passes. The valvetrain along with the rest of the engine looked the best when using the Amsoil. I cut down a lot of wear and extended the life of all the parts.

One of the major differences between the Brad Penn oil and Amsoil is the Brad Penn is a conventional mineral based oil whereas Amsoil is a full synthetic oil. What makes this a key part in how they are different is the viscosity index. A motor oil with a higher base oil viscosity index provides the very important benefit of improved flow when it is cold while maintaining oil film thickness at high temperatures. Conventional mineral base oils have a viscosity index in the range of 100. Full synthetic base oils typically have a viscosity index in the range of 150-200. Using full synthetic base oils that deliver a viscosity index approaching 200 is a game changer and here's why. Using a full synthetic high viscosity index based oil, you can now safely run 1 viscosity grade lower that you would using a conventional based mineral oil. You can now reduce start-up wear without sacrificing high temperature durability or oil pressure.

In my own experience I have had the conventional oils to include the Brad Penn oil break down under the temperatures seen even in drag racing and have lost oil pressure. Also the oil would only last maybe 20 passes at most. Now with the Amsoil synthetic racing oil I can go 50+ runs before even thinking about changing it. And even after that interval it still hasn't broken down and I can go further.

To me it doesn't make sense to put a lower grade oil in a $30,000 plus engine after what I have found. Pretty sure you are not going to save enough money to replace the engine. Also in most cases with being able to make more runs before changing the oil, you will actually save a lot of money over the so called cheaper oil.

Just for reference, under the Amsoil PC program, you can buy Amsoil Dominator Racing Oil for around 28% off the retail price of $12.75 mentioned above. When you run the numbers I think you'll find that Amsoil is not as expensive as most think. I am an Independent T-1 Certified Amsoil Dealer and can set you up with an account to get that price. Not sure what you pay for the Brad Penn, but I'm sure based on the info provided the Amsoil is a much better deal.