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No clue, but I am shocked as frick my tiny little 500 amp lithium can not only start my racecar like a damn helicopter.
It also starts dead diesels in the middle of winter???
I've always had 900-1000 amp stuff, sometimes dual batteries and this little thing is unbelievable!!!


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I know that a hot 500 CCA battery will crank my car, but it has a PMGR starter and start retard.

But I wouldn't buy a battery that small. I try to find something in the 900 area to give it some leeway.

 

I use a small lawn and garden battery in my junk that is like 480cca. Never had a single issue with it unless I mess up and forget to shut the accessory power off. Battery is trunk mounted with a 00ga wire to the starter and a bunch of really good grounds.

 

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That is amazing. Very impressive.
Like I said, I still can't believe my little 500 amp lithium is that damn powerful!!!

Have you ever thought about moving it up front and saving the weight of the cables??

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And if he refuses to go 16 volt, the reduction in voltage drop is also a big advantage.

In regard to your statement, lead acid batteries can only supply 50% of their rated capacity before seeing major voltage drop. Lithium its almost non existent.

As far as the original post. Cranking amperage needed varies a lot from one low compression motor to another depending on things like voltage drop, starter efficiency and drag on the starter (lots of street deals fight the starter when hot).
Assuming the car currently runs, I would take a volt meter and ammeter and check your amp draw and voltage drop and see if your wiring is up to snuff and if it is then you will be able to see how much amperage its pulling cold and hot.

 

Why do you need a 190 amp alt?

 

Everything is electric, and its a street car, so I run things like, head lights, big fuel pump, big electric fans, trans cooler, water pump for long periods. It's a power master 140 alt. But it qc checked out @ 192 amps.

 

I remember back in the day the best most powerful car battery was the 525 amp Diehard, and a 63 amp alternator. They had conversion kits to increase the amperage to 63 amps too. The biggest thing about batteries is not necessarily the amps it puts out, but the reserve capacity. How long will it last putting out those amps without voltage drop. That's why the lithium batteries work so good. Even as small as they are, they are capable of putting out the same amps and volts all the way through the charge. Pretty amazing what those little things can do. If your running an alternator, and your shit fires right off, you really shouldn't need anything more.

 

My LS3 on E85, big cam and 13.5:1 compression - I try to get over 800 CCA battery personally because it can be a bitch to cold start, but if it wasn't such a cranky motor I think the standard battery for an LS3 Commodore here was 600 CCA.

 

When I ran E85 i used to put an electric heater blowing on the intake for a few minutes. Just enough where it was slightly warm to the touch on first start up of the day. It would fire in one revolution every time. Without doing it that way it would crank its ass off.

 

That is a good idea.
I already carry a heat gun for doing heat shrink.
I’m also on meth and was planning an oil and water heater for those cold spring and fall events!!

 

I had locked out timing on a 12:1 355 (old school build) and I definitely needed every bit of 800cca to start it.

 

I ran a 30-RS antigravity in my C5Z with 438ci and 13.7:1 comp and holy cow it spun the engine over FAST!!!!

 

Exactly. My little anti-gravity spins my 15-1 BBC monster over beyond belief.


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Check doug riesterer

 

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Well that has been proven wrong many many times.

MSD works better, starter works better, pumps work better and much less rounds lost because of hot lapping.

Direct from MSD!!!

Race cars without charging systems must have a battery with a large enough capacity to power all the electrical parts.
For example, an MSD 6 or 7 series ignition consumes approximately one amp per thousand rpm, so at 5,000 rpm the MSD alone is using five amps.
An MSD is designed to produce full power sparks with a supply voltage of 10 volts, but if the supply drops below that, ignition output will suffer.


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I can see the draw to 16 volt if you don't have a good charging system.

But if you have a legit charging system and proper wiring, the gains of 16 volt are greatly diminished.

 

I can see the draw to 16 volt if you don't have a good charging system.

But if you have a legit charging system and proper wiring, the gains of 16 volt are greatly diminished.

That's true, and most of us have posted that.

Some cars don't or can't run an alternator, they need a 16 vdc system.
Some cars have a ton of electronics, the so-called experts have posted several times, they need 16 vdc systems.
When you have 16-24 injectors, and electric everything, it helps, even with an alternator.
I remember one of the twin turbo EFI guys posting he runs 16 vdc battery & alternator because it showed it ran better.

I ran dual 12's and single 12's with an alternator for a very long time with zero issues.
When I switched to T/S I did the monkey see, monkey do deal.
I could not be happier.
Spins over monster ass engines like the plugs were pulled!!!

SO again, if starting from scratch, do the 16 vdc system.
If you already have a good 12 vdc battery & charger, and want some insurance,
throw an alternator on there and you will be fine 99.999% of the time.


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