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High vs Low resistance Plug wires

11K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  sbcnos  
#1 ·
Hey guys, At the end of last year we had an engine fire that burnt up some stuff. The plug wires were a little burnt, but they ended up making it through the rest of the season. They were 8.5mm MSD 40ohm wires.

By the way, we're Injected on Alky with nitrous (See Dave Koehler). Probabably about 950hp on motor and about 200hp power adder on @ WOT. Digital 7 (7531) and an MSD HVC II coil. The car runs 8.90 all day with a pretty mild tune up.

Over winter, we replaced the plug wires and have not made a clean run since. Since the plug wires were not the only thing changed over winter, it hasn't been my first place to look. After all, the wires are brand new and the ones last year were on fire for 2 minutes.

Here's the area of interest: The dude at Summit (I know) advised my dad to buy these moroso super max wires (The guy was basically like "These are 11mm...must be better, eh?) But, these are 800ohms per foot. After ripping the whole fuel system out, going over every wire connection, going from 1-180 on the timing, making N/A runs, etc...It just bangs and pops at high load.

So, this is probably super stupid, but are these wires my issue? Please help!

neil
 
#4 ·
Neil,
Did you change the gap on the plugs? What is your plug gap?

Normally the higher resistance wires will generate a higher voltage across the gap for a shorter period of time than the lower resistance wires. This is usually better for lighting off a wet plug but, might not be as good if you need the longer duration spark to light off the cylinder.

Do you still have your old wires? If so, put them on and see if they do any better. That will give you the best answer. Let us know.
Blake
 
#7 ·
Neil,

Normally the higher resistance wires will generate a higher voltage across the gap for a shorter period of time than the lower resistance wires. This is usually better for lighting off a wet plug but, might not be as good if you need the longer duration spark to light off the cylinder.
Is this true? When should we choose one over the other?
I just assumed less was always better haha.
 
#5 ·
Hey Blake,

Thanks for your reply. We usually gap plugs (NGK) at .017". Actually closed them up to .015" just thinking the same thing you did. Seems like that should be plenty tight.

Unfortunately the old set pretty much crumbled and literally fell apart when taking them off the old motor. I mean, they were really on fire.

Neil
 
#6 ·
If the cap and rotor weren't in great shape, the extra resistance could be enough to push them over the edge.

I chased a similar problem a while back after changing several things at the same time. Sent the box back to MSD (good), new coil, new mag pickup, checked wiring, etc.. The culprit wound up being a brand new MSD distributor cap.
 
#10 ·
That's what I'm thinking. On the N/A run, the engine burned really clean and smooth. However, about 500 RPMs less on the big end. Seems to be a loading issue. I burned up the spring loaded button on the Cap after 3 hits and had to replace it. This is after only a few laps with the new wires. Could this be another clue that the added resistance is causing the system to search for easier path to ground?

Neil
 
#11 · (Edited)
This gets to be a complicated issue, but it seems to me that using higher resistance wires to attempt to create more spark is a bit like using resistance wire to feed your speakers because the amp is 8 ohm and the speaker is 4

I can remember years ago Champion had "booster gap" plugs, and one rep told me that feature had been flustered by GM who at the time had gone to a SHORTER distributor rotor, causing more gap in the cap

In other words if the source impedance of the ignition system was properly designed "to expect to see" what is at the plug, then we might be using "ware" instead of resistors.

On the other hand, an actual road car is not going to be well accepted, radiating huge amounts of interference............in fact, it's against the law
 
#14 ·
It's not that simple. Impedance and power transfer. And the source is not stable. "Within reason" your 12V battery is nominally 12."some"V from zero current draw to say, 10, 15, 20A

Also within reason, your AC power in you home is 120.someV from zero current draw to full load rating of the breaker/ wiring.

THIS IS NOT the case with ignition systems. The output is load dependent affected, and anything in that output path.......gap in the distributor, gap/ resistance of the plug, and especially conditions in the cylinder and of course the resistance of the plug wire all affect that power transfer
 
#13 ·
One way to look at it is....Water.. Water from a fire truck pumping water. Say at 150 psi. If you choke it down to a garden hose, you will have high pressure, but low volume. Now pump at 150 through a 2" fire hose. More volume, but less pressure. So you can increase the psi and get more pressure. There is a reason you will never see some wires being used with anything using a mag44. There are some wire manufactures that use a conductive core 3 times thicker than those manuf. smaller core wires. Thicker core can carry more volume. We've tested a dozen different wires at the Schumacher facility, and have melted wires from the inside out on their mag machine. It was amazing.
 
#15 ·
Hey guys. I just wanted to touch back with you on this one, as the problem has been solved. Hopefully it could help someone in the future.

So, Rick @ firecore hooked us up with some sweet new wires and last Wednesday night we were able to make the first 2 clean test runs of the year. The car was slow due to some new fuel flow numbers, but the popping has completely subsided.

Saturday, we were number 1 qualifier in Renegade 8.90 BOTH sessions and went on to win the event!

I can't say enough good things about Rick and his products. His service and gratitude is second to none. On the phone he told me that he can't wait for us to put his product on our car, and guaranteed that his excitement matched or exceeded mine. I don't know if that's possible. The wires have already paid for themselves almost 10 times over in only one event.

Thanks very much to everyone who helped. See you at the track.

Neil
 
#18 ·
Hey guys. I just wanted to touch back with you on this one, as the problem has been solved. Hopefully it could help someone in the future.

So, Rick @ firecore hooked us up with some sweet new wires and last Wednesday night we were able to make the first 2 clean test runs of the year. The car was slow due to some new fuel flow numbers, but the popping has completely subsided.

Saturday, we were number 1 qualifier in Renegade 8.90 BOTH sessions and went on to win the event!

I can't say enough good things about Rick and his products. His service and gratitude is second to none. On the phone he told me that he can't wait for us to put his product on our car, and guaranteed that his excitement matched or exceeded mine. I don't know if that's possible. The wires have already paid for themselves almost 10 times over in only one event.

Thanks very much to everyone who helped. See you at the track.

Neil
Do you believe the wires have or will change the tune up at all?
 
#16 ·
Alky/alky as well. Had similar issue. I would be willing to bet it is the HVC II coil. I have a grid, so that got the blame, changed the boxes 5 times and never helped. To test the theory, pull the cap and see if any of the terminals are chalky. If they are the coil is going down.
 
#19 ·
Thanks for the trust. That sure is a great testimonial. We are grateful to have designed a product very specific for our modern day tech race cars. Another happy Firecore customer, and add another to the Champion list. Love to see the pics!!
 
#21 ·
Voltage is pressure and water flow is similar to how electricity behaves but increased resistance will reduce voltage and put more pressure on other parts like your dizzy cap, coil etc. larger spark gap does the same thing.
An increase in resistance unlike a restriction in a water pipe won't increase voltage/pressure but reduce voltage and create more heat at that particular point.
Volts Amps and resistance are all relevant of each other and certain circumstances will affect not just one but all of them at the same time.