[Black_Sunshine_99]

For LS applications the Wix 51522XP filter states it has no bypass valve.
Think I'll toss one of those on when I change the oil and do the bypass.

 

[Black_Sunshine_99]

Even if oyu plug that though, youwill stilllikely trip the bypoass in the filter. Which is annoying IMO. Cold starts generally aren't filtering the oil. I'd like to ditch the bypass 100%.

For LS applications, the Wix 51522XP filter states it has no bypass valve.
Think I'll try one when I change the oil and plug the bypass.

 

[ForceFed86]

Thats def one of them. its the 13/16 16 thread though. The aftermarket pans usually all use the m22 1.5 thread. I wasn't seeing any of those without the bypass

 

[Mario428]

Isn’t oil filtration also a big concern here? Pretty sure almost all oil filters have a bypass. If you routinely run over that pressure level, isn’t the oil not being filtered? At least a large portion of it?

No there has to be pressure drop across the filter for it to bypass.
This means a dirty filter or trying to flow more oil than the filter is rated for, most engines have a filter rated for a lot more flow than the pump can deliver.

If you really needed a filter your engine is eating it self.
For the people who cut their filters you know if you find anything you are in trouble

 

[ForceFed86]

Its pretty normal IMO to see a bit of glitter at the oil change when dealing with big power SBE setups. I also filter my turbo feeds. I noticed the excessively high oil pressures caused by the DOD pumps causes the bypass to trip as I’d see bits of material in my pre turbo fiters. If I get 2-3 seasons out of a $500 motor I consider myself lucky, but I don’t want my turbos sucking up garbage. When I ran the factory oil pans with the 13/16 16 filters without the bypass, I didn’t see material at my turbo screens. Bearings also looked better. I haven’t found an m22 1.5 filter without a bypass yet.

So I’ve been clipping the pressure relief spring to get pressure back down to normal. Unfortunately, I am still seeing some material being bypassed. So i'd like a filter without a bypass in it.

 

[Taff]

Most filters with an internal bypass valve only need a 11-12 psi pressure differential across the filter for the bypass to open - so cold starts and high rpm (with the usually far too small cannister filters) will open the bypass every time.
We use non bypass filters on some of our transmission builds- to catch any contaminants left in the converter or oil cooler after a previous trans failure when customers don't want to change them for new. Our testing showed us that the bypass valve filters do allow contaminants back into the new transmission.
We typically use a remote filter housing with 3/4 -16 nipple and a Fram PH4825 non bypass filter (or equivalent make of your choice as the Fram one is not available anymore).
A better filter for race use on a remote set up is the Wix 51268R, it has a 1-1/8 nipple and flows over 30gpm - three times what most cannister filters flow. It is a race filter though , it doesn't filter very low micron particles so oil needs to be changed regularly.

 

[bottlefed1]

Its a simple relationship between the amount of oil your pump flows and the amount of restriction to that flow. The only reason to run a HV oil pump is if you have less restriction to flow (large bearing clearances or things like large piston oilers or large spring oilers.

If you are seeing that much oil pressure due to tight bearings and thick oil viscosity you are reducing the amount of oil through the bearings and this will increase dramatically the temps seen in the wedge of oil seen in the bearing. In addition you will likely be bypassing the filter and pumping dirty oil through the engine.

Experiment with a different filter to make sure a bad filter is not the culprit (with the clearances you mentioned I doubt that is the issue) and if that does not drop it go to a lower viscosity oil as long as your lifters (if hydraulic) do not complain.

 

[64nailhead]

Its pretty normal IMO to see a bit of glitter at the oil change when dealing with big power SBE setups. I also filter my turbo feeds. I noticed the excessively high oil pressures caused by the DOD pumps causes the bypass to trip as I’d see bits of material in my pre turbo fiters. If I get 2-3 seasons out of a $500 motor I consider myself lucky, but I don’t want my turbos sucking up garbage. When I ran the factory oil pans with the 13/16 16 filters without the bypass, I didn’t see material at my turbo screens. Bearings also looked better. I haven’t found an m22 1.5 filter without a bypass yet.

So I’ve been clipping the pressure relief spring to get pressure back down to normal. Unfortunately, I am still seeing some material being bypassed. So i'd like a filter without a bypass in it.

Wouldn't it make sense to change the pump to Gen3, non DOD, low pressure pump?

 

[ForceFed86]

Wouldn't it make sense to change the pump to Gen3, non DOD, low pressure pump?

If they could keep up at rpm it would. But the flow rates of the gen3 pump that I saw were pretty horrible over 6k. I run mine to 7800 or so so I run the DOD pumps. They tend to do be on par with the 10296.

 

[64nailhead]

@ForceFed86

I haven't experienced that. I shim the stock spring about .100" and I drop 8-10 psi over a 1/4 mile pass. Peaks at 78 and drops to 69-71.

I have battled with stock pans and oil level causing oil pressure issues.

Regarding the OP's original question, I can't see the reason for 90-100psi of oil pressure in a factory LS block. If I'm staying over 55-60psi over 6000 rpm's then I don't believe there will be any issues caused by a lack of oil pressure. My local machine shop has put me in that direction as well.

 

[ForceFed86]

Don't believe it shows up as a giant dip in pressure on the gauge.. The GPM/flow is what drops off at higher rpm and it cavitates. Leaving air bubbles/froth in the oil its supplying. I never saw it as a huge pressure drop at rpm. But I did notice it bouncing around a lot in the logs at RPM making a jagged instead of a smooth pressure line. I took that as air getting in the system as I don't see it with the DOD pumps. They have wider vanes and push more volume at like pressure.

Also heard dimpling the vanes helps to alleviate the aeration at higher rpm.

Could all be my imagination and internet bandwagon bs. But made sense to me looking at my logs. Def have no proof of this. Tons of folks have been way quicker than me on a gen3 pump.

 

[Taff]

Don't believe it shows up as a giant dip in pressure on the gauge.. The GPM/flow is what drops off at higher rpm and it cavitates. Leaving air bubbles/froth in the oil its supplying. I never saw it as a huge pressure drop at rpm. But I did notice it bouncing around a lot in the logs at RPM making a jagged instead of a smooth pressure line. I took that as air getting in the system as I don't see it with the DOD pumps. They have wider vanes and push more volume at like pressure.

Also heard dimpling the vanes helps to alleviate the aeration at higher rpm.

View attachment 530413


Could all be my imagination and internet bandwagon bs. But made sense to me looking at my logs. Def have no proof of this. Tons of folks have been way quicker than me on a gen3 pump.

Have you got any more info on the dimpled pump gears- where you had the info from etc? Thanks.

 

[vw_chuck]

The question is what did the bearings look like when you changed them out? Were you using the same pump and oil weight with those bearings? If the bearings looked good then keep running it the same.

 

[ForceFed86]

Have you got any more info on the dimpled pump gears- where you had the info from etc? Thanks.

Aftermarket pumps had started doing it as well... here's an article. its been done on teh georotor and the old style gear pumps as well. Just helps store oil and reduce wear on the plate.

Front-Mounted Oil Pumps: Good or Troublesome? - Engine Builder Magazine

On late model engines engineers have moved the oil pump from its cozy location inside the oil pan to the front of the engine under the timing cover.

www.enginebuildermag.com

 

[Taff]

Aftermarket pumps had started doing it as well... here's an article. its been done on teh georotor and the old style gear pumps as well. Just helps store oil and reduce wear on the plate.

Front-Mounted Oil Pumps: Good or Troublesome? - Engine Builder Magazine

On late model engines engineers have moved the oil pump from its cozy location inside the oil pan to the front of the engine under the timing cover.

www.enginebuildermag.com

Ah,ok thanks. We do something similar on our race trans and our engine thrust bearing faces for holding lubricant - but looking at your photo- I thought that this mod was also being done to prevent cavitation on LS oil pumps.

 

[C5 Pete]

Thats def one of them. its the 13/16 16 thread though. The aftermarket pans usually all use the m22 1.5 thread. I wasn't seeing any of those without the bypass

Can’t you pull the nipple out and replace with the proper thread pitch?

 

[geraldscoott]

My gauge is on 80psi, if I drain the oil should it read 0???

 

[Chevelle-Guy]

My gauge is on 80psi, if I drain the oil should it read 0???

Your oil pressure gauge reads 80 with the engine off?

 

[geraldscoott]

Your oil pressure gauge reads 80 with the engine off?

No, it's at 0 until you start it and it goes straight to 80 and barley moves

 

[geraldscoott]

I drained the oil and started it and it still read 80lbs