Yes. Don't forget to buy new lug nuts as well.

 

Shop drills out the axles.

Machining the wheels depends on the wheels.

 

What do you currently have for 1/2" studs? Are they press-in, screw-in? If press-in, what size of holes?

 

Good question. I'll have to check

 

should'nt have to drill wheels, get the little sleeves and washers

 

mine:

 

Really depends. If you have press in studs, you need to make sure that the holes in the axles aren’t already too big. Also depends on the axles- I had my strange street/strip axles drilled from 1/2 to 5/8 without much trouble. Same guy tried to do my fathers Strange pro race axles, and his bits couldn’t touch the flanges. Turns out the street strip axles don’t have hardened flanges, and the pro race axles do. We bought new axles for pops’ car. Most modern drag wheels accept 5/8” drive studs. If the holes in the wheels are 11/16”, or can easily be made 11/16”, you’re good to go.

 

you can send the axles to Moser and they will do it for you, takes a couple of days plus shipping time.

 

Have also heard the Strange race axles are to hard to drill and tap with conventional tools, no problem drilling and tapping Moser axles. I've done quite a few sets of Mosers at home on the mill. I usually drill and tap a new set of holes in between the 1/2" holes.

 

Just recently did this myself after bending 1/2" studs. My axles are Strange. I shipped them my axles and they drilled and tapped for 5/8 studs. I bought a set of studs and nuts from them for my Weld Drag lites. I did have to some light hole enlarging on the wheel to fit over the new studs. I also had to drill out my Wilwood rotors to fit over the studs but easy on a drill press. Nice upgrade I should have done long ago.

 

I've had 3 sets of Weld Wheels Drag Lites on my car and they all slipped right over the studs. However, after torquing down the studs and making some hard passes the aluminum around the studs deforms just enough to make them too tight. I run a abrasive roll thru the holes and take out a little material. Once I do that they stay good.

 

I also just did this a few days ago, but went with new axels versus drilling my old ones. No issues at all, but as others mentioned, used an abrasive roll to clean up the wheel holes.

Question. Strange studs sheet suggests to torque to 130 lb ft for their chromolly studs, Weld with the Shank nuts recommended 95. What are you using?

 

I have always done 130 pounds on the exact same set-up.

 

Never used a torque wrench for mine. For torque I just use feel but my guess based on the gorilla bar I'm using is somewhere between those 2 recommendations.

 

I go 100 ft lbs or by feel.

 

1/2” breaker bar and tight as I can by hand.

 

Thanks for the feedback folks!