which do you think is the better way to tune in a new combination.
mrss01
Both. The Dyno will get you squared away on your base lines real fast and can give usable data for when you get to the track. But, the track is where E.T. is produced.
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Both. Iron out any bugs and get a base tune on the engine dyno.
My current combo we made near 30 dyno pulls trying ideas and got it close. How many trips to the track does that take............
My current combo we made near 30 dyno pulls trying ideas and got it close. How many trips to the track does that take............
Chassis dyno with load cell then the track. I can do the tune in a couple hours on the dyno vs possibly multiple trips to the track. The dyno is alot safer if something goes wrong on a new build IMO.
Fortunately/unfortunately depending how ya look at it, spent alot of time on engine dyno's with my stuff and guys I've driven for, luckily we've worked with a few great shops that are as hell bent on fine tuning/tweaking as much as possible without regard to time needed as we were. These guys knew what every number they were reading meant and how to quickly hone in based on what they saw so gains were quick.
Trying to fine tune an engine for max on a track, you will miss the 5hp here and 8hp there that when you calculate it all up at the end of gains found will tally up to sizable amounts, whereas at the track trying to just tune an engine so many variables can cover up a possible gain or loss since we tend to make excuses, "shifted late/soon, wind changed direction/speed, traction changed and I lost/gained. 01 in three 60', clouds rolled thru and covered sun, or clouds blew away and sun came out" etc...alot of tiny gains lost thru excuses that you can max out in a controlled environment. I'm sure most here who consistantly engine dyno will attest how even 1 degree timing change +/- can improve or destroy a curve.
Track tuning, I'll be the first to admit I've never in my life tuned to see how fast I could go, ever. Yeah yeah that's stupid but since I was bracket racing it didn't matter so long as it was consistant, and I've had better luck jetting to initial best mph once in car and on track, and then leaning it out until I lost .4-.5. I didn't see big et fluctuations when da took big swings for the better or worse, when air got better it was already short on fuel so it couldn't take major advantage of a da/water grain drop. Other guys tuned for max and learned to corrilate et swings vs da swings but I just couldn't nail down a repeating pattern that way so I tuned for lean.
Tried chasis dyno once but that turned into a circle so nothing learned/gained except supposedly at that time my 11.00 383 was putting down 800 lbs of tq to the roller lmao
Trying to fine tune an engine for max on a track, you will miss the 5hp here and 8hp there that when you calculate it all up at the end of gains found will tally up to sizable amounts, whereas at the track trying to just tune an engine so many variables can cover up a possible gain or loss since we tend to make excuses, "shifted late/soon, wind changed direction/speed, traction changed and I lost/gained. 01 in three 60', clouds rolled thru and covered sun, or clouds blew away and sun came out" etc...alot of tiny gains lost thru excuses that you can max out in a controlled environment. I'm sure most here who consistantly engine dyno will attest how even 1 degree timing change +/- can improve or destroy a curve.
Track tuning, I'll be the first to admit I've never in my life tuned to see how fast I could go, ever. Yeah yeah that's stupid but since I was bracket racing it didn't matter so long as it was consistant, and I've had better luck jetting to initial best mph once in car and on track, and then leaning it out until I lost .4-.5. I didn't see big et fluctuations when da took big swings for the better or worse, when air got better it was already short on fuel so it couldn't take major advantage of a da/water grain drop. Other guys tuned for max and learned to corrilate et swings vs da swings but I just couldn't nail down a repeating pattern that way so I tuned for lean.
Tried chasis dyno once but that turned into a circle so nothing learned/gained except supposedly at that time my 11.00 383 was putting down 800 lbs of tq to the roller lmao
I will help you out
If you listen and take my advise then you'll thank me later
Listen.......
If your engine (not motor) can't stand when peeps call a engine a motor
If your engine stays together
Together on the dyno
Then You waysted your money
What I mean by this is
If you didn't change cams, intakes heads????
Then forget spending money on the dyno
Make sure you either have a efi engine with ability to tune at the track or a good A/F ratio meter for N/A engine
And take it to the track
Keep run logs and make only small changes at a time
If you listen and take my advise then you'll thank me later
Listen.......
If your engine (not motor) can't stand when peeps call a engine a motor
If your engine stays together
Together on the dyno
Then You waysted your money
What I mean by this is
If you didn't change cams, intakes heads????
Then forget spending money on the dyno
Make sure you either have a efi engine with ability to tune at the track or a good A/F ratio meter for N/A engine
And take it to the track
Keep run logs and make only small changes at a time
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